Jump to content
SAU Community

r34 swap sedan diff

NOSTRADAMUSSS
 Share

Recommended Posts

NOSTRADAMUSSS Rookie

NOSTRADAMUSSS

Posted
Posted

Hello guys! I have r34 sedan wich came with rb20de in it. I swaped my engine and now I have est 300 hp .Unfortunetly I am stuck with stock open diff. Can anybody suggest wich cars locked diff will fit because I can't find parts in my area. I was only able to find one seller wich has this diff he doesn't know from wich car did this diff came from. It just says viscous lsd and and ratio 3.69 . If anybody can help to check will this diff fit my vehicle would be appreciated.

1582877199406_default.jpeg

1582877199728_default.jpeg

1582877200931_default.jpeg

1582877201510_default.jpeg

1582877202458_default.jpeg

1582877203015_default.jpeg

1582877203691_default.jpeg

1582877205448_default.jpeg

1582877206364_default.jpeg

1582877207038_default.jpeg

1582877208210_default.jpeg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480158-r34-swap-sedan-diff/
Share on other sites
NOSTRADAMUSSS Rookie

NOSTRADAMUSSS

Posted
  • Author
Posted
18 minutes ago, WR33KD said:

So your diff is the top pics and the new one you wish to buy is the bottom pics??

Yeah it should go straight in no problems.

Thank you for your answer your right . Can you please suggest are there other model nissan diff s that can fit

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

Have a look on the plate on your firewall and it will give the stock diff ratio for your car which I believe is 4.3 ...so  3.69 will be a lot taller - probably more than you want. 

A viscous diff will not be much different from an open diff especially if it is old. To make a worthwhile change you need a mechanical LSD (I presume you don't really want a "locked" or welded diff).

Whereabouts do you live? You may need to search further afield to get a suitable diff.

  • Like 1
NOSTRADAMUSSS Rookie

NOSTRADAMUSSS

Posted
  • Author
Posted
10 minutes ago, KiwiRS4T said:

Have a look on the plate on your firewall and it will give the stock diff ratio for your car which I believe is 4.3 ...so  3.69 will be a lot taller - probably more than you want. 

A viscous diff will not be much different from an open diff especially if it is old. To make a worthwhile change you need a mechanical LSD (I presume you don't really want a "locked" or welded diff).

Whereabouts do you live? You may need to search further afield to get a suitable diff.

Thank you for your answer. Yes the ratio is 4.3. My mistake by saying locked diff I meant LSD. I live in europe under Russia. My country is called Georgia.

georgia-location-map.thumb.jpg.5d52d92c359605a871358414910409c1.jpg

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted
42 minutes ago, NOSTRADAMUSSS said:

It is pretty old

Um, they're all pretty old.

 

The first diff you pictured is not even from a Skyline. It is probably not even an R200. If it has 6 bolt (not 5 bolt as previously described) flanges AND is viscous, then it is more than likely out of a Z32, and could be an R230.

It's just the wrong diff everywhere.

 

The Laurel diff you show looks to be near perfect - so long as it is an LSD. Do not consider one out of an S chassis - there will be things that you can't handle - the ratio will be very wrong, the stub axles will be wrong and you won't be able to swap them between a VLSD and an open diff (as they are not the same lengths).

 

And lastly - you asked for a "locked diff". What do you mean? Just any old LSD? Must be mechanical LSD? The reason I ask is that VLSDs are weak. They barely offer any LSD action when they are old and when presented with a lot of power. Not that 300HP is a lot of power, but I got rid of my VLSD at that power level because it would just open up under load.

NOSTRADAMUSSS Rookie

NOSTRADAMUSSS

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
20 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

And lastly - you asked for a "locked diff". What do you mean? Just any old LSD? Must be mechanical LSD? The reason I ask is that VLSDs are weak. They barely offer any LSD action when they are old and when presented with a lot of power. Not that 300HP is a lot of power, but I got rid of my VLSD at that power level because it would just open up under load.

So to be exact this car is my daily driver. I dont want to weld diff. Because I want to keep it comfortable and safe on high speed turns and etc . . All I want is to make 2 wheels speen while trying to drift. So you suggest that there is no point in investing in old VLSD right? I am really confused, than what will be solution in this situation.

Edited by NOSTRADAMUSSS
GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

My first tip is don't drift your daily.

My second tip, is, if you want to drift, then you need a 2-way mechanical LSD. A VLSD is a form of AIDS that you do not need or want.

You can buy a Nismo (or other brand) mech centre to put into your existing diff housing using the existing CW&P.

  • Like 1
Kinkstaah Grand Master

Kinkstaah

Posted
Posted

Yep. Nismo diff is the answer here. The N/A R34 GTT has the same "stuff" as a S15, or at least a S15 helical bolts into a R34 N/A perfectly.

Luckily, a lot of people drift S15's so options are plentiful.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      GTR R34 Limp Mode

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Has equal chance of cleaning an AFM and f**king an AFM. I think you can work out what happened. When the Hitachi ECU sees the AFM die and goes into the associated limp mode, then it will start and run just fine, because it ignores the AFM and just runs on idle maps that will do what it needs to get it going. But there is no proper load signal, so that's about all it can do. My suggestion? If you don't want to go full aftermaket ECU, then get some R35 GTR AFM cards and some housings to put them in, in the stock location, and Nistune the ECU. Better to do a good upgrade than just replace shitty 40 year old tech with the same 40 year old tech.
    • steven7270
      GTR R34 Limp Mode

      By steven7270 · Posted

      So my car was recently having trouble starting on initial crank, I would need to feather the gas for it to start up but besides that it would start and run fine. So I clicked the idle air control valve (with throttle body cleaner) and cleaned the MAF sensors (with MAF cleaner). The start up issue was fixed and now the car turns over without the assist of the throttle, but the car is in limp mode and wont rev past 2.5k RPM. From what I understand the IACV would not put the car in limp mode, so I am to believe it is the MAF sensors, but it was running fine before and now I cant get it out of limp mode. I cleaned the MAF made sure the o rings were seated properly. Made sure the cables were plugged in properly, the cables also both read the same voltage. Does anybody know why this is or what could be causing this or how to get it out of limp mode?
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      SAUNSW - Cruise - Albion Park Aviation Museum - 9th August

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Ooo I might actually come and bring the kids, however will leave the shit box home and take the daily
    • PranK
      Rusty roof repair

      By PranK · Posted

      Thanks. Yeah I realised that there's no way I'd be able to cover the holes with the filler, it would just fall through. Thanks again @GTSBoy!
    • GTSBoy
      Rusty roof repair

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      That was the reason I asked. If you were going to be fully bodge spec, then that type of filler is the extreme bodge way to fill a large gap. But seeing as you're going to use glass sheet, I would only use that fibre reinforced filler if there are places that need a "bit more" after you've finished laying in the sheet. Which, ideally, you wouldn't. You might use a blob of it underneath the sheet, if you need to provide some support from under to keep the level of your sheet repair up as high as it needs to be, to minimise the amount of filler you need on top. Even though you're going bodge spec here, using glass instead of metal, the same rules apply wrt not having half inch deep filler on the top of the repair. Thick filler always ends up shitting the bed earlier than thin filler.
×
×
  • Create New...