Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

6 minutes ago, drifter17a said:

Mine is gtt r34 with 500 bhp looking to boost up to 650 as it is forge so think having heavy might not be that bad at the end due to power.

 

just worried it won’t shift in cold morning

It's not just the horsepower figure, it's the torque and drivetrain. You may be able to get away with lightweight, try it first and see if it grinds at all.

47 minutes ago, joshuaho96 said:

If the synchros are on the way out some lightweight shockproof will help but only delay the inevitable. Don't shift quickly, double-clutch your downshifts. You will be able to get a bit more out of the transmission before rebuild. Don't try to DIY a transmission rebuild unless you feel like taking the transmission out multiple times. You will save a lot of money if you're willing and able to drop the transmission yourself, that's a good chunk of change right there.

It's been 8 years now, ~80000km, and no change in shift quality on my box from the first time it managed to change gears with smurf's blood in it.

26 minutes ago, drifter17a said:

i take it your box was worn so it won't shift and redline brought it back ?

Yes. I bought it for Neo my engine conversion and it changed gears nicely when not spinning, but would not while the engine ran. Changed to lightweight and it would change gears straight away.

26 minutes ago, drifter17a said:

new refurb one is around £1300 and want to kill this, buy one next year and then swap.

I can never understand the "kill this" mentality. I bet you I could happily drive your gearbox for the next 10 years.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 years later...

I have a 32 GTR and recently had the standard 5 speed rebuilt with R33 s2 syncros and have this exact same problem! Gearbox shifts fine when not under load but doesn’t matter what gear I am in and if I try and change gears under power then it always misses the next gear and the pedal goes to the floor… I have a cube short shifter on it as well and have the recommended redline MT90 and Nulon smooth shift so not sure what’s going on..? 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
×
×
  • Create New...