Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The car has been running fine during everything from cruising to drift events while on the last drift event the temperatures started to run off after just 2-3 laps. The oil reached about 105C after which I took some cooling laps and got the temperature rather quickly back to 85-90C, the coolant was also increasing steadily and occasionally reached 100C while sitting on the grid, requiring some longer cooling runs. The weather at the time was about 25C.

Since that day I have had the temperatures creep up as as soon as the car is standing still will continue to increase, to the 100C and above. While cruising on the highway at 130km/h and 20C (cloudy) weather the oil sits at about 85C and the coolant about the same, but as soon as I stop the temperature starts rising again and within 5-8 minutes the oil temp reaches 100. The symtoms are the same from cold start, the temperature will continue to increase until there is air flowing through the radiator. The fan is running, not oil leaks or coolant leaks, the oil level is on par and the oil pressure is about 2bar on idle and 5 bar on 4k rpm. I'm using Greddy after market gauges. 

I'm running a RB25 with about 500hp, forged pistons, metal head gasket, GTX3076, after market radiator, oil cooler (mounted in front of the radiator).

I have tried to searching for similar threads/articles but usually find that their overheating problems are regardless of moving or not. 

Any ideas on where to start? 

Edited by noperope
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480685-r33-oil-coolant-temp-high-on-idle/
Share on other sites

I run a similar setup in my rad and oil cooler. At idle it won’t go passed 86 and after 7 hard laps I’m lucky to see 95 and after a good 45sec burnout it will hit 105 bit drop down real quick. Those are all water temps unsure what my oil gets to.

Guessing you have an aftermarket ecu? Can you log in to it and see what your fans and set to come on at?

5 minutes ago, WR33KD said:

I run a similar setup in my rad and oil cooler. At idle it won’t go passed 86 and after 7 hard laps I’m lucky to see 95 and after a good 45sec burnout it will hit 105 bit drop down real quick. Those are all water temps unsure what my oil gets to.

Guessing you have an aftermarket ecu? Can you log in to it and see what your fans and set to come on at?

That's what I used to see as well even during drifting. I'm running a Link G4 so I should be able to have a look what the settings are, however, I just want to point out that nothing has changed since it went on the dyno earlier this year. I'll take this into advice and see if I can maybe export some log-data while I'm at it.

9 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

So, it is one of a very few things. Thermostat, as advised above. Radiator compromised. Water pump vanes eroded away.

Go forth and apply the logical procedure to work out what is wrong.

The engine was pulled apart at the beginning of last year and had the water pump changed at the same time.

 

8 hours ago, KiwiRS4T said:

Are you using the stock fan? What kind of radiator do you have? Does the radiator shroud fit properly with your new radiator?

It's the stock fan indeed but the shroud is gone since a long time, never had it.

 

11 hours ago, hardsteppa said:

Have you tried a new thermostat?

As many of you already pointed out, I will have at the thermostat and replacing it regardless since it's such a cheap part and I don't know if it has ever been replaced. I'll report back when it's done.

20 hours ago, Ben C34 said:

Kiwi nailed it. It's the lack of shroud

 

20 hours ago, noperope said:

the shroud is gone since a long time, never had it.

 

I would have agreed with Ben, except that the change is recent and it has apparently never had the shroud. If it was the missing shroud, you would expect the problem to have always been there. That would suggest that it is something else that has changed recently. So, back to my earlier list, starting with the others' thermostat recco.

  • 2 weeks later...

Having flushed out the coolant and replaced the thermostat it would appear as that has done it. The temperatures are holding steady around 80C. Never done this work before so it's been a learning experience. I'm going to test the old thermostat to see if it's completely or maybe just partially shot.

Anyho, thanks for the replies guys!

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Brooooo Please send ABS control unit schematic Please! R33 gts25t ABS (Its two plug ecu, black and white) wire colors possible? [email protected]
    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
    • Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
    • Can you clarify what you mean by boost cut, do you mean it misfires both when under load (driving) and when stationary and out of gear? Or does the ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high (boost control issue)? Does it occur at idle with no throttle? When you say "the ECU is OK", what ECU is it and why do you think it is OK? Have you used the NEO ECU, and if so do you have a MAP sensor attached? Same for the AFM, why do you think it is OK? Do you have any way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (even just a mechanical one between the fuel filter and fuel rail)?
×
×
  • Create New...