Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So guys i need some help with the rear subframe assembly for the r33 GTS-T. I just picked up an r33 shell and it comes with the R33 rear subframe, but im having trouble with knowing exactly what to purchase for the subframe, could any of you guys just give me a little checklist to write down so i know what to buy for it. Im relatively new to this stuff, so take it easy on me haha.

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481016-checklist-for-r33-rear-subframe/
Share on other sites

17 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

What do you want to but for it? Paint? Bushes? Arms? Brakes? Diff? Driveshafts? Earth straps?

Well the rear subframe is bare, so i'm looking to do the whole lot, paint, bushes, arms, brakes, rods etc; apart from the diff and driveshaft. Also, what are earth straps if you don't mind me asking haha?

Thank you for replying

So you don't even have hubs? Well, the list is easy. You need everything that you can't see.

Earth straps are exactly what they sound like. Braided wire strap with eyelet crimped on each end. Used for linking things like subframes to the chassis for electrical continuity purposes.

11 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

So you don't even have hubs? Well, the list is easy. You need everything that you can't see.

Earth straps are exactly what they sound like. Braided wire strap with eyelet crimped on each end. Used for linking things like subframes to the chassis for electrical continuity purposes.

Yeah i pretty much have nothing. The problem is, i dont know the exact names of everything i cant see haha, could you just point me in the right direction or provide a little list if thats all goods. 

You need, at least;

Knuckles/uprights, lower control arms, upper control arms, traction rods, dampers, springs, hubs, brakes, subframe to chassis bushes, diff bushes, handbrake cables, hydraulic brake lines, upper and lower balljoints, wheel bearings, any bushes that don't come with whatever arms you buy.

You quite possibly need all the fasterners for subframe to chassis, diff to subframe, arms to subframe, brakes to uprights.

You can buy aftermarket arms, brakes, bushes etc, but you will need original parts for a lot of the above list.

You probably should just buy a complete subframe, with suspension arms etc, to make sure you can get your hands on all the things that you don't have that you probably can't easily get individually.

3 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

You need, at least;

Knuckles/uprights, lower control arms, upper control arms, traction rods, dampers, springs, hubs, brakes, subframe to chassis bushes, diff bushes, handbrake cables, hydraulic brake lines, upper and lower balljoints, wheel bearings, any bushes that don't come with whatever arms you buy.

You quite possibly need all the fasterners for subframe to chassis, diff to subframe, arms to subframe, brakes to uprights.

You can buy aftermarket arms, brakes, bushes etc, but you will need original parts for a lot of the above list.

You probably should just buy a complete subframe, with suspension arms etc, to make sure you can get your hands on all the things that you don't have that you probably can't easily get individually.

Thank you very much for that list. Well if the price is right and i have enough money, i am willing to pay for complete subframe. Thanks again mate.

26 minutes ago, Shoota_77 said:

Hi mate, this link may help you-

https://www.amayama.com/en/catalogs/nissan/skyline/9-sedan-right-r33-1996-r-1349/7/538

At least gives you the "proper" names and part numbers.

 

Oh thank you for that, its a very good reference.

 

Are you building it back to standard or did you want to modify/improve it? 
Im building a rear end for my R32. I’m using Whiteline bushes and sway bar, GSB hubs and hard race adjustable arms, that is, lower control arm, camber arms and traction rods. I’m not sure if your car has HICAS but Ive ordered the GK Tech hicas elimination kit for mine 

3 minutes ago, Old man 32 GTR said:

Are you building it back to standard or did you want to modify/improve it? 
Im building a rear end for my R32. I’m using Whiteline bushes and sway bar, GSB hubs and hard race adjustable arms, that is, lower control arm, camber arms and traction rods. I’m not sure if your car has HICAS but Ive ordered the GK Tech hicas elimination kit for mine 

Hey mate, well I really just want to take it back to standard and maybe improve a few things here and there, but keep it relatively stock. I’m trying to build my R33 as a daily driver/good street car that I could take to a track or race if I felt like it, if you know what I mean.

anything else to add to the checklist old man 32 Gtr?

The gsb hubs are fairly cheap and come complete with studs, bearing etc, so is worth doing, if you’re going to track it, you should get the adjustable arms, the hard race stuff is fairly cheap, but just Jap do their own called zzs or zzr, something like that, I’ve heard it’s made at the same factory as the hard race stuff but it’s a little cheaper. 
best thing is go through that parts list shooter posted and start looking up stuff and see what options you have for your car. If you get stuck or are unsure about something, ask here, someone will be able to help 

770A3A0C-ED8F-4F5A-BA9F-59F123DE8759.jpeg

AA0316B6-E260-4762-B795-0746ECD81EAD.jpeg

E8B5D40F-E0A4-4548-ADAB-9A2A380A88E6.jpeg

8 minutes ago, Old man 32 GTR said:

The gsb hubs are fairly cheap and come complete with studs, bearing etc, so is worth doing, if you’re going to track it, you should get the adjustable arms, the hard race stuff is fairly cheap, but just Jap do their own called zzs or zzr, something like that, I’ve heard it’s made at the same factory as the hard race stuff but it’s a little cheaper. 
best thing is go through that parts list shooter posted and start looking up stuff and see what options you have for your car. If you get stuck or are unsure about something, ask here, someone will be able to help 

770A3A0C-ED8F-4F5A-BA9F-59F123DE8759.jpeg

AA0316B6-E260-4762-B795-0746ECD81EAD.jpeg

E8B5D40F-E0A4-4548-ADAB-9A2A380A88E6.jpeg

Okay thank you very much for the info, I’ll definitely make sure to look through that list. Thank you very much 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah I suspect even if you hold airmass per cycle/cylinder constant if you get too far away from stock you're still going to have problems running the factory tune within the bounds of the factory load scale. Cams, different displacement/rod ratio, etc. I'm just lucky that the GTIII-SS with wastegate boost + CA compliance cats is pretty much equivalent to stock turbos. When I have actual space I can finally get it tuned and modify the fuel system for flex fuel to 100% handle any detonation concerns when cranking the boost to whatever those dinky turbos can put out.
    • I would say no, why, because my daughter, who also lives in Goulburn, hasn't recommended us going there Pity, as we miss all the German joints around in Sydney, actually, the restaurants are the only thing I really miss about Sydney, and a special mention to Ishibanboshi at Bondi Junction, their Kara-age Don is heart cloggingly deliciousness (always added a special boiled egg...or 2) 😋 
    • Does that German restaurant still exist in the old place out the NW end of Goulburn? When I say "out the NW end of"...I am really being vague. It was 1997 when I was last there, and the only point of reference I can recall is that it was on the opposite side of the main drag from the big merino. And when I say "opposite side of the main drag", I don't mean "on the main drag". It was either a couple of streets back from there, or might have even been out in the sticks a bit further. Was an old farm building or mill or somesuch. And when I say "the big merino" I might actually be thinking of a completely different part of town, because I just looked on maps and the big bugger is not where I remembered him to be! The food was good, consisting largely of various German mystery-meat sausage/loaf things and kartofflen.
    • So while the second sentence is completely correct and the whole point of the conversation, the first sentence bears consideration. If this bloke is just hoping to throw big turbos on and drive it around, because there are no helpful facilities at all in his tropical paradise** then he likely has zero chance of even knowing what the TP is on the last column in the stock maps, let alone know whether the ECU is operating anywhere near it or past it. So the point is very very moot. And, per what I said before, at stock boost on those turbos, you may well be off the end of the map. **I'm just back from Vanuatu, so I know exactly what small Pacific nations can be like wrt paradise without requisite facilities. But it's not even that simple. I put a high flow on my car and had to drive it around without a proper tune because of the lack of opportunity*** to put the bigger AFM and injectors into it to allow it to be tuned. I had to turn the boost down to less than I had before, and back off the boost controller's ramp, because it was exploring parts of the map that it didn't drive in before, and really couldn't access for tuning on the dyno either, and so was pinging. It was still well within the last column, because when I first**** set up the Nistune on the Neo I rescaled all axes of the maps to give some more space to explore. ***Family dyno was broken ****This was 13 years ago, and the TIM thing wasn't a thing then and so TP would definitely grow when pushing past the stock tune's limits.
    • Yep, this bit another local owner. I caught it before putting the transmission back into the car, what I noticed was the pressure plate fingers weren't flat and even. It's more obvious with the pull style clutch because the throwout bearing ring was visibly not flat once everything is put together. Nismo should really update their instructions to call out this specific detail. I'm not even sure the clutch as-shipped orients everything properly.
×
×
  • Create New...