240z rb26 oil cam cover control q's

[brian_s30z]

Hello All,

I have a single turbo rb26 240z (432z tribute car) that I'm going to rebuild to my planned second phase which consist of forged internals, HKS Vcam Step 2 , and oil control. My Question is my valve covers were modified by engine swap bracket company to clear the hood release bracket, so they now sit directly above the oem mesh screens, is there anything wrong with this setup? With New V-cam valve cover I would have to mod again, so holding off for now. Will upgrade to High Octane baffles. Will be a track car mainly so oil control is a big reason for the build

[GTSBoy]

Track car = dry sump. Spend the extra $10k and delete the cam vents?

[joshuaho96]

Isn't the point of the breather being all the way at the end of the baffling/mesh path to try and keep as much oil out of the lines as possible?

If this is a track build first and foremost just go dry sump and none of this matters. Cap off the breathers and let the scavenge pumps deal with it. It will keep you from ventilating the block.

[brian_s30z]

Dry sump is an option, but I’ve already invested in a 7litre sump, spline drive and oil pump. Then I need to restore and paint the car so don’t really want to spend more. 

[joshuaho96]

14 hours ago, brian_s30z said:

Dry sump is an option, but I’ve already invested in a 7litre sump, spline drive and oil pump. Then I need to restore and paint the car so don’t really want to spend more. 

If that's the case then my advice is to run tires that are not particularly grippy to avoid pushing the limits. Ventus RS4s are supposedly good for this, a durable track tire that has relatively low grip.

Moving the breather position forward a little may not matter much, but if it does make enough of a difference you may need to drain the catch can back to sump. On a track car this isn't a big deal, oil temps are high enough that water/fuel won't accumulate. I would also add a line just before the turbo after the catch can to try and ensure that crankcase pressure is at least atmospheric. You have to make sure that the air coming out of the catch can is as clean as you can get it though.

[GTSBoy]

More realistically, dealing with the oil supply and drain side of the equation is going to be more important than whether the cam vents are a little compromised compared to normal RB26 covers. I mean, how are these any worse now than standard RB25 covers, right?

So, read the last 100 pages of the oil control thread, do the right amount of supply restriction, add in some big sump vents to the catch can and make the best of it.

[Unzipped Composites]

3 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

More realistically, dealing with the oil supply and drain side of the equation is going to be more important than whether the cam vents are a little compromised compared to normal RB26 covers. I mean, how are these any worse now than standard RB25 covers, right?

So, read the last 100 pages of the oil control thread, do the right amount of supply restriction, add in some big sump vents to the catch can and make the best of it.

 

Well one would assume that they probably haven't modified the baffle positions to suit the new breather locations though, so they may effectively have half the baffles. On a 25 the baffles are still positioned accordingly.

 

Whether that actually makes much difference or not on a track car with inherent oil control problems? Probably not so much.

[brian_s30z]

17 hours ago, joshuaho96 said:

If that's the case then my advice is to run tires that are not particularly grippy to avoid pushing the limits. Ventus RS4s are supposedly good for this, a durable track tire that has relatively low grip.

Moving the breather position forward a little may not matter much, but if it does make enough of a difference you may need to drain the catch can back to sump. On a track car this isn't a big deal, oil temps are high enough that water/fuel won't accumulate. I would also add a line just before the turbo after the catch can to try and ensure that crankcase pressure is at least atmospheric. You have to make sure that the air coming out of the catch can is as clean as you can get it though.

Thank you. thanks for the suggestions. Don't plan on reaching limit or be competitive. Block and Head will be machined for ~+1mm on oil returns.

I think I'm going to move the breather location back to stock, just half a -10 hole size forward on intake cover. I checked my V-cam cover and the "POWER" logo sits right where my welded AN is. 

"I would also add a line just before the turbo after the catch can to try and ensure that crankcase pressure is at least atmospheric." not sure how to add a line here?

 

[joshuaho96]

22 hours ago, brian_s30z said:

Thank you. thanks for the suggestions. Don't plan on reaching limit or be competitive. Block and Head will be machined for ~+1mm on oil returns.

I think I'm going to move the breather location back to stock, just half a -10 hole size forward on intake cover. I checked my V-cam cover and the "POWER" logo sits right where my welded AN is. 

"I would also add a line just before the turbo after the catch can to try and ensure that crankcase pressure is at least atmospheric." not sure how to add a line here?

 

Your catch can has two little breather filters on it, what you probably want to do is run those lines just after the air filter on the turbo but before the compressor inlet. Just make sure your catch can is actually filtering out all of the oil.

[djr81]

On ‎10‎/‎17‎/‎2020 at 8:51 AM, joshuaho96 said:

Your catch can has two little breather filters on it, what you probably want to do is run those lines just after the air filter on the turbo but before the compressor inlet. Just make sure your catch can is actually filtering out all of the oil.

There lies a question.  What does the catch can have inside by way of baffles/filters/flow restrictors etc etc to stop the puked oil getting out the breathers and just as importantly the accumulated oil sloshing around.