Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

Just came across this RB30 block with a bit of an issue.

Not much damage apart from the hole in the block, any ideas on what caused it?

I'm contemplating welding the hole up and rebuilding it with standard rods and pistons to see how it holds out. 

RB30's are hard to come by where I'm from.

Is it worth it, has anybody done anything like this to any other block?20201022_183044.thumb.jpg.c1c7157a774b47fad4c5a4cf29b6cfa4.jpg20201022_183101.thumb.jpg.cbc287c3e68f90283ac83c083e23fb7f.jpg20201022_183132.thumb.jpg.9e2cecdf52e0bcecb6db5b183e66d8d2.jpg20201022_183143.thumb.jpg.bb5ee3a267299fecf6e27e12bd110305.jpg20201022_183201.thumb.jpg.b6d72f0b850b0d5e64ff4c8f7a39c13f.jpg

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481348-rb30-block-problem/
Share on other sites

I've seen (and done) old cast iron blocks welded up before and it can be done . . . . however . . . 

if you really want to save it then you should get the block crack tested before you start.

As GTSBoy states no point in welding up the hole if there is structural cracking in the surrounding areas.

As to welding you will have to find the best cast iron welding rods (or wire) that are as close to the parent metal in the block.

Then find yourself a specialist cast iron welder

You will also have to heat the entire block up to a very high temp over a long period of time and hold the temp there while it is being welded.

Then you will need to bring the temp of the block down very slowly to avoid cracking.

One method I have used for this is using heated sand, which you place the block in and let it cool over a day or so back down to ambient temperature.

Another method is to braze the broken piece back into place.

This is a specialist welding method also and will again require the above heating/cooling method.

Thank you PLYNX, I was hoping someone had actually seen this done before.  I'm a welder by trade myself and a welding inspector so I believe i have the ability and the knowledge to do it. Also I know a few welding engineers that will help with the composition of the welding rods required.

Crack testing here we come.

Be sure NOT to sand blast the block clean as it can leave residue in the porous cast iron which can affect the welding process.

If you are going to attempt the cast iron welding yourself. best to practice on scrap cast iron first.

As you say if they are hard to find where your at you'll only get one shot at it to get it right so your preparation work is paramount. 

Just out of curiosity where are you located ?

And looking back at your pics, my guess would be a rod bolt failure.

Bores being perfect might be a bit of an overstatement!

I'd be pretty dubious about welding this, the last of the guys who I would've trusted even attempting this repair used to operate a backyard furnace in the 70s and the last of the partners died about 20 years ago.....all the good ones here were ex-railway workshop it seemed.

If the thing is anyway salvageable and you're desperate, machining, tapping and gluing might introduce far fewer stresses. One Ayrton Senna, won a championship, running just such a repaired engine which had a serious  "alternator failure" at one stage.

 

On 10/26/2020 at 7:23 PM, niZmO_Man said:

He also died apparently because of a re-welded steering column.
I'd get a another block/engine/V8
or get a billet block yolobro

Ha, the prosecutor's line! ☺️ 

Surprise, surprise, story is online even, patch

Do agree, this bloke (in the US?) would be better off biting the bullet rather than trying to resurrect crap.

I'm not sure, I've been advised that its a 'race only' block, and its not suited for the street. I've been trying to dig up info on this but no-one seems to want to disclose. I also heard that some people advised on pre-heating the coolant prior to starting or some crap.

Another thing I found is that billet blocks need lots of oil pressure(dry sump) as apparently the clearances become tight when at temperature.

These are just claims I've heard, so I don't know how accurate they are.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This looks great! Awesome to have the 5 speed with an LSD in this. The Recaro's look like SR2's or SR3's. It's a shame they've been retrimmed as they would have looked sweet in their original colours. I think I'd want my agent to be a little more up front and informative too. I've never imported but I reckon it would make me a little nervous, so the more info the better.
    • Thanks for doing that Duncan! Makes you a good person in my books. We don't get kangaroos or wombats here. But we have bats and it's similar. AFAIK it's often the mums with a baby attached that get hit because they drop lower when starting from a tree. If you hit an animal, check on it. https://www.ifaw.org/au/resources/wildlife-rescue-app An app to get the closest wildlife rescue contact.
    • My dream is also to have a proper hoist, but I don't think it will ever happen. My quickjack is probably as close as I'll ever get, it really is very good though. 
    • Yeah we keep on in the dailies, it is pretty poor how many animals get hit and the driver leaves without checking....have saved a couple of little ones over the years. Bit of a gruesome job though, pouches generally need to be cut open because they are so tight and often the joey doesn't realise mum is gone so they are still locked onto the teat. I checked the modules in front of the DS wheel where an oil cooler should go.... There is the radar unit - that can go for race use) One of the 2 HX water pumps, the silver cylinder. That needs to be kept but might be able to be relocated But the bad news, the big computer mounted vertically in front of the wheel (blocking any potential air exit) is the electric steering computer. That is required until/unless i do a hydraulic steering conversion, and in CAD based modern car design it is not like I can just pop a big unit like that somewhere else (plus the loom would be too short anywhere else too). So, the passenger side is OK to clear out (just use a smaller washer reservoir, potentially elsewhere), but the DS no beuno
    • Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
×
×
  • Create New...