Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb25 Bolt-On Turbo from MaXspeedingRods

r33tensh

By r33tensh,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

r33tensh Rookie

r33tensh

Posted
Posted

RB25 Bolt-on Turbo from MaXspeedingRods Install Guide

This is an install guide for the bolt-on budget turbo from MaXspeedingRods. 

1. Let the engine cool down and prepare to drain the coolant from the radiator. Drain the coolant from the radiator and get as much coolant out as possible. Jack up the front of the car and safely put it on jack stands.

2. Remove the Dump Pipe from the turbo. Spray some penetrating oil on the 6 bolts on the dump pipe and the 2 bolts on the catalytic converter.

3. remove all the inter cooler pipes including the J-Pipe. remove any vacuum hoses that's connected to the inter cooler pipe and turbo. Unbolting the power steering reservoir from the strut tower can be helpful for more space.

4. Remove the Exhaust manifold heat shield. Spray some penetrating oil on the turbo oil and coolant line bolts. Start with the Oil Lines. Remove the banjo bolt from the oil feed line. Remove both on the turbo and the side of the engine block. Remove the 2 Bolts on the Flange for the Oil Drain line and the banjo bolt that's connected on side of the engine block.. Once All the Oil Lines are removed start with the Coolant Lines. Remove the coolant feed and coolant drain. AVOID getting coolant on the Oil Drain line.

5. Unbolt the 4 bolts that's holding the turbo from the exhaust manifold. Again Spray some penetrating oil to avoid snapping the studs and to make it easier unbolting the bolts. Once unbolted the turbo should be able to detached and removed.

6. Install the new turbo and start with bolting it on the Exhaust Manifold. Connect All the Oil and Coolant lines and MAKE SURE TO USE NEW COPPER WASHERS. Torque the Banjo Bolts to OEM Specification to avoid leaks.

7. Install the dumpipe to the new turbo and connect it back to the rest of the exhaust system.

8. The new turbo doesn't have the 3 bolt 90 degree elbow that is found on the factory turbo on the compressor side. You can either weld a 90 degree elbow on it or simply just buy a 2 inch to a 2.5 inch 90 degree silicone elbow.

9. The new turbo intake inlet is a 3 inch compare to the factory 2.5 inch inlet. Install a 90 degree 3 inch pipe with silicone joiners and connect it with the afm and pod filter.

10. Install all the vacuum hoses and inter cooler pipe plus j pipe on and make sure all the clamps are tight to avoid boost leaks.

11. Fill the radiator with coolant and bleed the system. Top up the oil if needed and the car is ready to start.

1.jpg

2.jpg

3.jpg

4.jpg

5.jpg

6.jpg

7.jpg

8.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Predator1
      Ogura orc1000f vs Osg tr2cd vs Osg r3c experiences, max torque/max hp?

      By Predator1 · Posted

      Haha I do that.. thats when it chirps..The bit point for me is almost non-existent. Otherwise I stall it. But yes, in terms of performance, the clutch is solid af.
    • GTSBoy
      r34 Skyline 25 Gt four GTR conversion (ENR34)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Greg speaks wisdom. These dirty old Datsuns are only value when they are cheap. When they are not cheap, there is no value. Sounds contradictory, but it's true. We are now 20 years past the hey day of modifying cheap 90s JDM cars for small amounts of money. This is a different world. If you are rich and can afford not to care about what is effectively wasting money on an old Datto shitter, then I have no reason to argue against it. But if you are wanting to experience what we all experienced back in 2005 (and I bought my car last century!) then there is no way to do it.
    • Kinkstaah
      r34 Skyline 25 Gt four GTR conversion (ENR34)

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Short answer: No. Medium answer: No, because you still need to conjure the things out of thin air to bolt them to a NA to make it a NA+T. Long Answer: No - The things you need to conjure - meaning a turbo, intercooling, manifolds, exhaust, intake/manifold/piping, clutch, injectors, fuel pump, AFM (?), ECU + Wiring (woo, N/A loom fun) have to come from somewhere. You could have many scavenged these things from an OEM car that someone had upgraded from and use some of these. This will be cost prohibitive now, especially so in the USA. You'd probably pay the same for newer, upgraded components that are better than old OEM stuff from 25-30 years ago. None of these big ticket items are re-usable for the N/A car. Why not buy new and upgrade while you're there? The only real consideration is turbo and fuel sizing and determining whether you want to stay within the bounds of the OEM engine or get into rebuild territory. These limits ARE lower with a N/A motor and especially N/A gearbox at the starting point. And if you're gonna upgrade those then you may as well consider having them built to begin with. Because everyone here knows you're never far from that next engine rebuild once you start making the power you want... The cars you see on the internet and SAU etc have been built over decades. If you're really clued in... you would sell your US car to somebody for what you paid for it. You would then scour AU JDM pages or SAU and buy a car like Dose's on this forum with your powerful American Dollar. This will save you so much money in the long term. Importing it could be tricky. Or it might not because USA. I have long said the only reason 90's Japanese stuff took off was because a) Japanese people had Japanese cars so that is what they used b) Australians could import these cars to Australia with very minimal changes and use them on the road here c) Neither country had well-priced access to US or EU Sports Cars. I don't believe the JDM scene would have taken off in Australia at all if we had EU priced EU BMW M offerings, or more especially the AUS V8 Scene would never have existed if we had the multitude of US cars like Camaros, Mustangs, Corvettes at the prices you folks do. After all - Do the math. I would say put a V8 in your R34 and that's the smart way forward. It is. I did it. I know this from my own experience. But at that point there's no reason to simply not buy a C5 or C6? It would be simpler and easier and cheaper and bette-
    • AdiR34
      r34 Skyline 25 Gt four GTR conversion (ENR34)

      By AdiR34 · Posted

      Reading all this... hurts lol. I have an ENR34 5MT and I paid an inflated USA price for the car alone, had to do tons of preventative maintenance past that, and so I'm over $30K USD into the car already and haven't even touched power.  I wanted to +t it. Not even trying to make GTR numbers, I'd be happy with 250hp.  Can I get away with paying much less to make that happen?
    • Milkmun
      The Evolution Of "night Fury"

      By Milkmun · Posted

      Damn you’ve done well, definitely snapping necks.
×
×
  • Create New...