Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey, everyone!!

I’ve got a 1989 GTR. Bought a stock Rb26 out of a 99’ and I’m currently rebuilding it now while it’s outside the car.

 

so as of right now, I’ve got on the motor:

Garrett 2860R- 5’s with HKS oil restrictor 

ported stock manifolds

HKS turbo elbows

tomei VALC cams with 254 duration and 9.15mm of lift 

Radium Fuel rail

800CC injectors by Deatschwerks

new OEM timing belt idler pulley, tensioner spring, tensioner pulley

HKS adjustable intake and exhaust cams 

new OEM water pump

full HKS exhaust

HKS downpipes

extended oil filter housing with -10AN fittings to an oil cooler

Breather hoses to an oil catch can from the valve covers 

Nismo thermostat

Fuel pressure regulator

All new HKS gaskets

Tomei timing belt

tomei oil gallery orifice

tomei oil pan baffle

N1 Oil pump with spool forged gears 

Tomei valve springs and retainers

everything else on the motor is pretty much stock that I haven’t listed here. Stock rods and pistons.

the chassis is completely built. It has a full GKTech suspension and BcForged coilovers, fuel cell in the trunk with dual high flow fuel pumps, battery relocation to the trunk and a full heads up AEM display with an AEM infinity ECU. 
 

i think my question would be, (being new to the RB26 motor) would be, how solid is this build? I’m honestly looking for a reliable street car. Looking for a realistic 300-400 horsepower reliably while also being able to have fun driving in a spirited way. Not looking to bounce off the rev limiter. 
 

im hearing that the RB26 has some oil issues and I’ve read up on the N1 oil pump. I feel confident in my build in so far but I’m not too sure about the n1 pump with those spool forged gears. Is that enough to reach what I’m achieving assuming I’m not a jackass bouncing off of the rev limiter??

I’ve included photos of my motor bay and the car as well.

thank you all in advance!

 

warm regards,

 

justin

87B6DCF2-B897-4B35-AF01-38823D2B6731.jpeg

4038C87B-1474-4610-A82F-6205CA8BF7FE.jpeg

EFE1515B-FFE5-4C4A-B854-3F9D9B2E7367.jpeg

6543E7AE-B150-4995-BBAB-38A77FD6CB18.jpeg

C218A1E0-3365-4EA3-89EA-F7FD4DB21229.jpeg

66F7707D-07DE-43D4-9C15-9DB1C7EBA731.jpeg

  • Like 3

and im going to save you here before you get eatn alive... 300-400hp well you already have that off the shelf....reliable is a wierd word in this world. usually comes down to the driver and the maintenance not the hp level mate. 300-400 is peanuts for her. n1 pump ive never been a fan off. seem like you have good capability mechanically.. with those turbos you could get much more and still be well reliable as you would say. nothings reliable really its a twin rb single that thing while you got the motor out. sell the twins. you will understand later they just suck.

Nice color, I like it!

Not sure if you plan to run stock intercooler, but the story of stock intercooler good for 600hp is BS.  I would recommend adding an aftermarket intercooler.  There is no clutch mentioned in your list, so I would also suggest a new ATS carbon twin plate.  

If your goal is a robust 400hp, I think the -5s are not the right choice.  They hit the 400hp mark at later RPM and are meant for more.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...