Jump to content
SAU Community
  • Welcome to SAU Community

    Welcome to SAU Community, like most online communities you must register to view or post in our community, but don't worry this is a simple free process that requires minimal information for you to signup. Be apart of SAU Community by signing in or creating an account.

    • Start new topics and reply to others
    • Subscribe to topics and forums to get email updates
    • Get your own profile page, build reputation and make new friends
    • Send personal messages to other members.
    • See fewer ads!

    Consider joining our newsletter for the latest content updates

    Click here to register


Efan33

Tips/advice for 1993 r33 n/a gts series 2

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, so I recently purchased a 1993 R33 Skyline GTS series 2, they are n/a and I’m having lots of trouble finding threads and stuff on just information for them.

I’m currently working on getting it roadworthy and don’t have much to go, I plan on making it my daily but I also want to do some cool things to it but I know close to nothing about cars. In the future I hope to do a manual and turbo conversion but that won’t be for a few years and by then I could possibly just buy a gtst haha. 
 

But any information or help you guys could give would be awesome, I don’t even know exactly what model it is because there is so many from what I can tell on the Internet but as far as I can tell it is an ER33 series 2 gts n/a

again thanks for any replies <3

BAEA6712-2B4B-4B99-8826-0A8A77345F37.jpeg

Link to post
Share on other sites

Welcome to the forums! It will help if you add location to your profile as different parts/specialists are available in different places.

If you want to know more about the factory spec of your car, Nissan's parts software FAST has the original details of how it left the factory but we will need the japaneses VIN from the firewall, it will be something like ER33-xxxxxx.

You said you need to get the car roadwrothy, what is wrong that needs to be addressed?

And, in most cases turbo and manual conversions don't make financial sense, although that could be changing as the price of many of these cars are going up, not down, these days....

Link to post
Share on other sites
9 hours ago, Efan33 said:

1993 R33 Skyline GTS series 2

Just as a FYI, Series 2 came out 1996 onwards. 1995 had a kind of parts bin approach which everyone called Series 1.5.

The front headlights on your car are Series 1, being a 1993 I would safely say it's a Series 1 :)

Don't bother doing a turbo conversion, just do an engine swap with something more fun when the time comes.

Link to post
Share on other sites
15 hours ago, Duncan said:

Welcome to the forums! It will help if you add location to your profile as different parts/specialists are available in different places.

If you want to know more about the factory spec of your car, Nissan's parts software FAST has the original details of how it left the factory but we will need the japaneses VIN from the firewall, it will be something like ER33-xxxxxx.

You said you need to get the car roadwrothy, what is wrong that needs to be addressed?

And, in most cases turbo and manual conversions don't make financial sense, although that could be changing as the price of many of these cars are going up, not down, these days....

Thanks man! Okay no worries I’ll add that into my profile but yeah I’m located in Victoria near Melbourne.

Is FAST like some sort of website that they have or something? I’ll have to sus that out but the VIN thingy you asked for is ER33-005985.

So with the roadworthy, I’ve got to pull the fuel tank out and clean it out because it apparently has fuel that has been sitting there for a while and turned into some sort of slime or something stuck to the bottom of it. I’ve gotta chuck a RHF park light in, either replace or fix a puncture on my RHR wheel. Need to replace front caster bar bushes. And another thing that I have no idea how to fix is the gearshift indicator is sticking, it shows up fine on the dash but next to the shifter if I move it down it stays on the one above (Say if I had it in reverse and pulled it down without pushing the button in, it will go into neutral but not show that it’s in neutral. And if I push down the button on the shifter it will go into reverse but show that it’s in neutral.) the glue is torn in the boot seal, and I need to fix a rust hole in the boot floor.

I recently had it in the auto elec too and found that the alternator was stuffed, so I’ve had a brand new one put in and now the battery side of things is all good.

And yeah that’s what I’ve been thinking, currently it’s definitely not worth it but things could change in a few years time and I definitely don’t plan on doing it any time soon hahaha.

Link to post
Share on other sites
13 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Just as a FYI, Series 2 came out 1996 onwards. 1995 had a kind of parts bin approach which everyone called Series 1.5.

The front headlights on your car are Series 1, being a 1993 I would safely say it's a Series 1 :)

Don't bother doing a turbo conversion, just do an engine swap with something more fun when the time comes.

Ahh okay, it’s been really hard for me to find out for sure what the exact model is but you’ve cleared that up for me now, cheers a bunch man!

And yeah actually that sounds like a much better idea, will definitely keep that in mind going into the future!

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

FAST is some old windows software by Nissan, and I think there are some website alternatives these days but I'm stuck in the past.

ER33-005985 comes up as:

image.png

Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)
On 6/10/2021 at 10:53 PM, Efan33 said:

If you want to know more about the factory spec of your car, Nissan's parts software FAST has the original details of how it left the factory but we will need the japaneses VIN from the firewall, it will be something like ER33-xxxxxx.

But the simple way is just go to the R33 GTS page at GTRRegistry and all the details same as FAST are there.

Edited by Rusty Nuts
additional information
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan, Thanks for that. Much appreciated. Cheers, Fred
    • 120mm for a standard r32 gtr or gtst power steer pulley.  
    • Been nothing happening for a while as got the sil80 going and been trying to decide what direction to go but have been doing the important things like painting cam cover and making heat shield for the turbo.  Fitted some more lights to the work area in the shed and converted to LEDs. Heaps better with the extra lights.  Pulled out the ecu and loom this week to start planning a new loom with extra sensors and inputs.  Considering going DBW as liking it on the other car. So will have to send ecu back to link for modding.  Car is booked in to get the engine bay and under side blasted end of July so have to get a move on stripping. 
    • Yep - I have had three different EFR's - and still run an 8474.  All have had this casting issue and I didn't like it either.   The Turbo's perform well - but its disappointing to see this lack of quality control - and yes it does make you naturally wonder if there are other problems that you can't see. I think that Borg Warners attitude to "its fine, and doesn't stop it working" is not a good thing.  As others above have said, other manufacturers seem to get their castings nice and tidy and you would expect that the top of their line be well finished.   Maybe BW should have a read of this thread and think about it for Version 2.0.     PS.  I've had 8374 and 8474 back to back on same engine - and I can say that in my experience the 8474 definitely does not spool as quickly as the 8374.   I can say this from dyno charts, seat of the pants feel, logging and track times.   The 8474 does exactly what you would expect:  Spools a bit later (200-300rpm), and makes a bit more power up top.         
    • Will do, thanks.   Do you know from memory which of these two plug (red marker) is for reverse switch ? also what is other one for ?  
×
×
  • Create New...