Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

G’day 

High beams comes on with stalk moved forward to permanently on but won’t work on flash ( inward stalk spring movement ).

does anyone know what it could be ? I have tried cleaning the stalk, is there a separate relay for this, perhaps fuse ? 
 

Also are low beams supposed to go off when stalk is in forward position for highs to stay on ? 
 

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482648-r32-headlight-used-search/
Share on other sites

Yes, with the original factory wiring, when the Hi comes on the Low goes off.

And yes, the flash function (stalk back) uses the brown relay in the engine bay (can't remember off the top of my head if it has a different fuse, but I don't think so).  The hi on function (stalk forward) just uses the switch and no relay is involved

Appreciate it man, I think most probably that brown relay is blown in my case will check anyhow. I just remember it making continued weird noises when I first started working on but did care at that time. 
 

quick question- 

Does the low beam go of with the flash function (stalk back) aswell  ?

Just curious before work on her again.

 

thanks 

sorry, I should add....yes the relay is an easy test/fix because you can just steal one form anywhere else, swap in and flick the headlights.

but also be aware it is getting pretty common for these switches to fail, the full current runs through the switch and they have 30 years of use on them. They are available brand new from nissan

  • Thanks 1

It’s all in the wiring from factory. They were designed to dip the low beams off with high beams on. Just bridge some wires under the steering wheel and off you go. 
Best to replace the headlight switch and add 2 relays to divert the current away from the contacts in the switch and directly to the headlights (hard wired to battery and use the original headlight positive wire as the relay trigger) much better light as they will get a full 12-14 volts and and less stress on the switch contacts as there is no massive current draw

A4624000-6A81-4AFC-85C1-6F21B75FE360.png

B37680E8-4D31-42EC-99FA-6C223A62BBAD.jpeg

2B725DD6-6D84-4F1E-85DA-3ED39BBB5A08.jpeg

@Adam91Thanks man, that’s exactly what I was thinking of doing for the low beams, Also have you bridged it to have them both on same time ?

Anyhow just discovered another problem regarding which I started the thread, 

So what is the neutral position for the high beams on the stalk ?

I think mine is bit noodled up, central position turns high beam on front turns off and have no flash on complete inward spring position. Can someone confirm what positions is turn on off on theirs please. 

On 7/21/2021 at 9:52 PM, Rb25orange said:

So what is the neutral position for the high beams on the stalk ?

I think mine is bit noodled up, central position turns high beam on front turns off and have no flash on complete inward spring position. Can someone confirm what positions is turn on off on theirs please. 

Central is high beams off

Forward towards front of car is high beams on (stays locked forward)

Rearward towards driver is to flash (doesnt stay locked in)

On 21/07/2021 at 9:52 PM, Rb25orange said:

@Adam91Thanks man, that’s exactly what I was thinking of doing for the low beams, Also have you bridged it to have them both on same time ?

Anyhow just discovered another problem regarding which I started the thread, 

So what is the neutral position for the high beams on the stalk ?

I think mine is bit noodled up, central position turns high beam on front turns off and have no flash on complete inward spring position. Can someone confirm what positions is turn on off on theirs please. 

Yes the first pic shows which wires to bridge to make high beams come on with the low beams without dropping the lows out (just like normal cars). Would recommend bridging the wires at the back of the plug (under the steering wheel) with heat shrink rather than the paper clip trick shown in the picture I provided

  • Thanks 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
    • Final update!!! Got the front bar fitted and sprayed and all sorted now. My cutouts worked great and the indicators aren’t just falling off. 😂  
    • Is this a brand new LSD? if so, have you followed any break/bed in procedure for it? Usually involves heaps of figure 8 patterns, a fluid flush.
    • It's TWO steering wheels actually. 😛 one for each hand They are wheels, and they steer!
×
×
  • Create New...