Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm putting together my RB30/26 build.

What's supposed to go in this hole, and where do I find it? Looks like an oil orifice or something.

PXL_20210827_052951643.thumb.jpg.7d599270f3adc8ed55d04b8282991a86.jpg

I've searched a bit, and can't find it in the manual. A part number would help immensely. Also wondering if I can pull that part off an RB26 block.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482766-what-goes-in-this-hole-rb30-block/
Share on other sites

Just had a quick look an the RB30 block in my shed - that hole is either blocked with a solid plug of some sort (not a welsh plug), or it isn't actually a hole, just a slight depression in the casting - it's hard to tell. 

20210828_094129.thumb.jpg.993c1681290a9e3377e0e4d0ff5f7e46.jpg

  • Like 1

I don't have a block handy, but I expect it is access to an oil gallery for cleaning, and therefore needs to be plugged again after machining and cleaning. There is no external feed there.

Also, be aware there are other plugs that have probably been removed during cleaning, in particular the one under the oil filter housing that will allow all the oil to drop back to the sump if it is missing....

On 8/27/2021 at 5:20 PM, GeeDog said:

Just had a quick look an the RB30 block in my shed - that hole is either blocked with a solid plug of some sort (not a welsh plug), or it isn't actually a hole, just a slight depression in the casting - it's hard to tell. 

20210828_094129.thumb.jpg.993c1681290a9e3377e0e4d0ff5f7e46.jpg

That helps. Thanks.

On 8/27/2021 at 6:05 PM, Duncan said:

I don't have a block handy, but I expect it is access to an oil gallery for cleaning, and therefore needs to be plugged again after machining and cleaning. There is no external feed there.

Also, be aware there are other plugs that have probably been removed during cleaning, in particular the one under the oil filter housing that will allow all the oil to drop back to the sump if it is missing....

Yeah, looks like it's an oil passage, and the block was cleaned before being built. 

The one under the oil filter housing: Is that accessible from the outside, or only by taking the sump off? I've got a PRP prepped block and it came with the PRP block brace/AWD adaptor already installed...
Thanks for the help!

On 8/27/2021 at 11:58 PM, GeeDog said:

Had a look at my other RB30 block and it is definately a plug of some sort (ignore the rust, this block has too many holes in it and is out in the weather):

20210828_131927.thumb.jpg.f45eeb6c093b11593b518a1a9ae5e177.jpg

I'd guess that's hammered in since there's slot or hex key to pull it out... Hmm. 

 

Consensus seems that I can just measure the threads and plug it with a grub screw of some sort, eh? 

 

Thanks guys. I appreciate the help. 

Unfortunately I don't have clear pictures, and this is for an RB26, but this is all of the oil and water plugs in the block according to FAST

Every shop will clean a block differently and some may put none (or worse some) of the plugs back. The welsh plugs are pretty obvious if they are missing, although there is a trickier one in the back of the head above where oil drains are often attached.

Checking the one under the oil filter housing requires removal of the filter mount and I think there are some differences for rb30 with how the filter mounts. The RB30 I have in the stagea has a stagea oil filter mount so I'm not sure of the standard setup.

 

rb26-block-plugs.jpg

Main oil gallery plug.

They’re just an alloy punch in block off bung.  I threaded my holes (there’s one each end of the block) but you need to be very careful to not go too deep with your bolt as one of the head supply or main bearing galleries (can’t remember which…) comes off that passage quite close to where the bung goes in.

  • 4 weeks later...

Quick update for future searchers:

The RB26 plugs (11021AA) did not work for my RB30 block. My RB30 has threaded holes, and the RB26 plugs are pressed in for a compression seal. 

I was able to order the correct threaded plugs from Platinum Racing Products. Turns out my machinist had a few laying around as well though. 

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...