Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

On 11/6/2021 at 2:00 AM, sonic99 said:

Thanks. Bad news for me tho. This is a discontinued part according to Nissan. Is this true? What are my options and is there a way to rectify this somehow

Talk to a body shop, they may be able to carefully bend the piece so it doesn't stick out quite so much. Keep in mind though that's easily an 800 USD part to find new if you're thinking of the part I'm thinking of.

Your talking on a R33 right ?

Had the same thing happen with mine along with the little plastic push clips/studs, that went to god, that secure it to the metal clips.

In the end I went and got some stainless steel domed allen key head bolts and bolted it back together.

Then stuck it to the window frame with quality double sided automotive tape

If it is the molding from A to B pillar you'll need to try and fix it. I have been trying to source these for an R33 for months (and am willing to pay stupid money for them if anyone knows where to find a set), they are like unicorns and I cannot find them anywhere in the world brand new.

On 10/11/21 at 1:18 PM, Amaru said:

If it is the molding from A to B pillar you'll need to try and fix it. I have been trying to source these for an R33 for months (and am willing to pay stupid money for them if anyone knows where to find a set), they are like unicorns and I cannot find them anywhere in the world brand new.


If we are taking about the same thing, here it is:

https://trust-kikaku.myshopify.com/collections/skyline-gt-r-bcnr33/products/oem-nissan-body-side-weatherstrip-rhs-bcnr33-r33-2-doors-663101499

 

On 11/10/2021 at 7:13 PM, sonic99 said:

Thanks for that, I have those pieces already so we're talking about different things :) The parts I need are 76870-22U00 and 76871-22U00 which are "Weatherstrip Retainer" - the hard black "plastic" molding running from the A pillar to B pillar.

On 11/10/2021 at 2:45 AM, sonic99 said:

Actually, I think the discontinued part is the one I’m also after/trying to fix. Sorry about the mix up

I'm surprised Nissan has no plans to reproduce those weatherstrip retainers, they're trading hands at 90k yen easily.

On 11/11/2021 at 3:34 PM, joshuaho96 said:

I'm surprised Nissan has no plans to reproduce those weatherstrip retainers, they're trading hands at 90k yen easily.

I decided to search again last night and found 1x 76870-22U00 in stock in Japan, and paid 112k yen for it 😐 stupid I know, but the only brand new one I have seen pop up in months. Now to find 76871... if you know of anyone that happens to have one, I am more than interested and will pay "im having a mid life crisis" stupid money for it.

Edited by Amaru
added extra info to post
On 11/11/2021 at 3:46 PM, r32-25t said:

They actually didn’t reproduce anything with the heritage scheme (scam), they took new old stock, changed the sticker and tripled the price 

Yep, literally slapped a Nismo part number sticker over the original Nissan sticker in a lot of circumstances. 

On 11/10/2021 at 9:00 PM, Amaru said:

I decided to search again last night and found 1x 76870-22U00 in stock in Japan, and paid 112k yen for it 😐 stupid I know, but the only brand new one I have seen pop up in months. Now to find 76871... if you know of anyone that happens to have one, I am more than interested and will pay "im having a mid life crisis" stupid money for it.

That's just how it goes these days, if it wasn't you it would almost certainly be someone else.

  • 2 weeks later...
On 11/11/2021 at 12:00 AM, Amaru said:

I decided to search again last night and found 1x 76870-22U00 in stock in Japan, and paid 112k yen for it 😐 stupid I know, but the only brand new one I have seen pop up in months. Now to find 76871... if you know of anyone that happens to have one, I am more than interested and will pay "im having a mid life crisis" stupid money for it.

You try Z1 in the US?

Im paying someones mortgage over there

Quote
On 11/5/2021 at 6:11 PM, sonic99 said:

So the weather strip to which the rain guard gets attached, should there be a gap/channel between this weather strip and the roof? Or should it be flush against the roof?

 

hey mate. the rubber weather strip is attached to the metal retainer and it should sit flush. mine had gaps all over on both sides. so i measured the difference, took them off then bend it back with a hammer dolly set.

  • Thanks 1
On 22/11/21 at 7:23 PM, Nostalgia said:

hey mate. the rubber weather strip is attached to the metal retainer and it should sit flush. mine had gaps all over on both sides. so i measured the difference, took them off then bend it back with a hammer dolly set.

You’re a genius!

 

was it fiddly to take off? And once measured did you have to keep reinstalling and removing until you made it perfect?

Edited by sonic99
On 11/22/2021 at 9:33 PM, sonic99 said:

You’re a genius!

 

was it fiddly to take off? And once measured did you have to keep reinstalling and removing until you made it perfect?

not at all. very easy.

you first remove the soft rubber door seals held on by push pins. this exposes the retainer. it comes off in one long piece after you remove the screws.

from there, measure gap. take off. bend. put back test fit etc until desired fitment. reinstall. done.

 

  • Thanks 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just a thought, how come you didn't use a 4D table? So you essentially run 2x fuel and 2x ignition tables, and the table/map switch is handled when there's enough WMI pressure detected. This is mine, but using the flex sensor as the 4th dimension, note the slider at the bottom. Between 0 to 70%, the timing is blended/interpolated , once it goes past 70% ethanol full send
    • Hi guys, after dreaming of owning a JDM legend for 20 years, I got the chance to buy a 1995 R33 GTR.  I live in a small country called the Solomon Islands which is in the pacific. There is no performance car scene here, however 90% of vehicles here are 2nd hand Japanese imports so there is a handful of JDM sports cars here, tucked away.  3 Evo VI’s, 1 180sx turbo, 2 GTO’s, 1 R32 GTR and 2 R33 GTR’s.    Only 1 Evo and a 33 (mine) are active. I’m hoping to set up a club to get these cars back in the road.    I’d known of my GTR for 9 years and always dreamed of owning it. At the start of this year I found it sitting outside a workshop waiting for a respray. It was in pretty bad shape, although running and driving perfectly apart from a big exhaust leak and worn out bushings. My brother in law who is a huge GTR guy came over for a holiday and I took him to see it, he got into my ear and I bought the car 2 weeks later as is.   I’ve had a pretty bad problem with alcohol and weed since 2020 and I really wanted to quit. So I used this as my motivation. I quit everything cold turkey and have been investing all my spare time into restoring this car. It’s honestly been the best experience and has been such a positive impact on my life.  There is no market for these cars here, no parts and no mechanics that can work on them, so if you wanted to sell one it would be pretty impossible unless you found the right buyer. After a bit of negotiating with the previous owner (a good friend) I got the car for $15,000 AUD ($85,000 SBD) which is insane.  I’ve almost finished doing a refresh on the engine, new turbos, spark plugs and split fire coil packs. Also new gaskets and seals, This car had no leaks to begin with, but it’s due now being 30 years old. . Next I’ll be working on the suspension, all new bushings, ball joints, king pins and new coil overs.  Then it will be body work, it has really bad rust in the boot floor, I have purchased a rear beaver cut from my bro which will replace the rusted out one. The car is originally KL0, but was burnt orange when it landed here, then it was resprayed toxic green and then Bayside Blue. I’m probably going to get it redone in Bayside Blue.  I’m super grateful to be able to enjoy this car and couldn’t have done it without my bro Chris from OG-JDM. Looking forward to the future with this car and hoping to get it on the runway at the airport here 😂  cheers fellas 
    • Also, it is just about triangularity. The less angle, the easier it physically is to do. Think of the amount of slip you're getting, as how hard you need to push an object. More slip, equals pushing way harder. Then the ramp is how steep the hill is. The Accel is less slip, which means it takes less pushing (less slip) to get it to be able to push apart. However, the steeper sides on the decell means it will take a lot more pushing (slip) to get it up the ramp.
    • It's the angle of the ramp from the vertical. You're measuring from the horizontal. To convert, take 90* minus your angle reference = Nismo Angle.
    • I agree, thus 45 degree is the *max* force one could apply to it. This is similar to what I've seen in uh... simulations... which allow you to play with diff ramp angles. Anything higher (or lower) than 45 degree would produce less force as 45 is the max... triangley.  I would state the 1 way is 90 degree, at least this is how my brain and other ways of explaining it refer to it. 90 degree also effectively acted completely open. I realise Nismo refer to it not as 90 (or 89) but "1". So I'm not understanding the angle on which these angles are based.
×
×
  • Create New...