Jump to content
SAU Community

Restoring R32 ECU with Mines tune?

weikleenget
 Share

Recommended Posts

weikleenget Explorer

weikleenget

Posted
Posted

Hi all, as the title suggests my R32 GTR has an ECU with a Mines tune which worked really well in summer and was a ton of fun, but now that the cold weather has set in, it’s running very rich and won’t get above 2500rpm without the throttle retarding. 

I understand that they epoxied the RAM to the OEM board with this tune so resetting is tough but I’m wondering if anyone knows a specialist who can revert it back to OEM settings?

Thanks!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482998-restoring-r32-ecu-with-mines-tune/
Share on other sites
Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

To answer directly, no, I don't know how they physically achieved the reflash of the ECU. 

However, the change in tune from factory is minor and unlikely to be your issue. If it is misfiring as it comes on boost it is likely to be some issue other than the tune. What boost is it hitting just before it starts to cut out (might be overboosting due to a boost control issue), or perhaps just an air leak somewhere.

joshuaho96 Veteran

joshuaho96

Posted
Posted
On 11/9/2021 at 6:51 AM, weikleenget said:

Hi all, as the title suggests my R32 GTR has an ECU with a Mines tune which worked really well in summer and was a ton of fun, but now that the cold weather has set in, it’s running very rich and won’t get above 2500rpm without the throttle retarding. 

I understand that they epoxied the RAM to the OEM board with this tune so resetting is tough but I’m wondering if anyone knows a specialist who can revert it back to OEM settings?

Thanks!

I doubt you can revert, removing the epoxy would probably damage the board beyond repair. I would just try and source an OEM ECU with the stock map.

weikleenget Explorer

weikleenget

Posted
  • Author
Posted
On 11/9/2021 at 1:46 PM, Duncan said:

To answer directly, no, I don't know how they physically achieved the reflash of the ECU. 

However, the change in tune from factory is minor and unlikely to be your issue. If it is misfiring as it comes on boost it is likely to be some issue other than the tune. What boost is it hitting just before it starts to cut out (might be overboosting due to a boost control issue), or perhaps just an air leak somewhere.

At any amount of boost and the throttle is almost completely retarded, and the car starts shuddering. It’s gotten significantly worse as the weather gets colder, and wasn’t an issue at all above 70*. I don’t think I have a misfire, had a compression test done and they tested all the cylinders everything was fine. Just happens when boost comes on in the cold

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted
On 11/10/2021 at 7:53 AM, joshuaho96 said:

I doubt you can revert, removing the epoxy would probably damage the board beyond repair. I would just try and source an OEM ECU with the stock map.

It's just an EEPROM. Epoxy isn't some magical substance. Anyone sufficiently fearless with a small Dremel burr would be able to remove epoxy from around the Mines chip legs sufficient to be able to get the chip out and a stocker (or more sensibly, a Nistune board) back in its place.

Having said that, a Mines ECU is essentially a bin job. They should never have existed.

On 11/10/2021 at 12:05 PM, weikleenget said:

At any amount of boost and the throttle is almost completely retarded,

Throttle doesn't retard. What exactly are you saying?

What does the boost gauge say? What is the fuel pressure? What is the AFM voltage at the time?

joshuaho96 Veteran

joshuaho96

Posted
Posted
On 11/9/2021 at 5:58 PM, GTSBoy said:

It's just an EEPROM. Epoxy isn't some magical substance. Anyone sufficiently fearless with a small Dremel burr would be able to remove epoxy from around the Mines chip legs sufficient to be able to get the chip out and a stocker (or more sensibly, a Nistune board) back in its place.

Having said that, a Mines ECU is essentially a bin job. They should never have existed.

Almost guaranteed I would grind into the board trying that and scrap it, maybe some people have steadier hands but I assume most people aren't that precise with a dremel. Someone will surely buy it just for the Mine's name, so better to just sell it and get a stock ECU which everyone seems to get rid of for a standalone these days.

weikleenget Explorer

weikleenget

Posted
  • Author
Posted
On 11/9/2021 at 7:58 PM, GTSBoy said:

It's just an EEPROM. Epoxy isn't some magical substance. Anyone sufficiently fearless with a small Dremel burr would be able to remove epoxy from around the Mines chip legs sufficient to be able to get the chip out and a stocker (or more sensibly, a Nistune board) back in its place.

Having said that, a Mines ECU is essentially a bin job. They should never have existed.

Throttle doesn't retard. What exactly are you saying?

What does the boost gauge say? What is the fuel pressure? What is the AFM voltage at the time?

I’ll have to check fuel pressure and AFM voltage but boost won’t go positive. What I mean is the throttle loses all response above 2500rpm, pedal turns to mush and the car shakes

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted
On 11/10/2021 at 1:51 AM, weikleenget said:

...and won’t get above 2500rpm without the throttle retarding.

Isn't this a symptom of a problem in the AFM? So, maybe the colder weather has caused a gap to open up in a broken solder joint.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • CRSKmD
      R32 Sedan - Grip and Drift (have my cake and eat it too build)

      By CRSKmD · Posted

      yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
×
×
  • Create New...