Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

I'm wanting to add some additional wire terminals for blade fuses into the front fuse box on my 1997 R33 GTST as part of cleaning up the previous owners dodgy wiring. The positive side of the terminals are there that connect to the +ve bus, but for some of the fuse slots the negative wire terminal is missing. These wire terminals pin into 24381 on the catalogue diagram below.

image.thumb.png.eecfbfc3a41278b296458f943f98b4c7.png
image.thumb.png.daf01d5e73d35992bf34beff75bb8f40.png

 

Does anyone know what wiring terminals are used in the fusebox? I know a lot of Sumitomo connectors and terminals are used elsewhere on the car.

Alternatively, does anyone know the trick to depin one so I can identify it visually? I haven't had any luck so far. From the catalogue diagram it looks like the whole fusible link holder removes which might give me some more success in getting a better view to depin, but I have been unable to figure out how it comes out yet. I'm sure it's clipped in.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/483002-r33-front-fuse-box-terminals/
Share on other sites

I can't confirm the connector to buy separately and I guess you mean load not negative for the side you are trying to add.

Having said that, groups of fuses will unclip from the main holder. You can see the little tabs in your first pic, eg to the left of the left hand 15A fuse - you need to flick all of them out then pull the section out of the frame. If you can't get every clip at the same time (lots of little screwdrivers...) you need to start at one end with a couple of tabs and pull the holder up far enough to get past the clips, then hold it up and move to the next set.

That will get the fuse holder out of the frame, but you may ind it can't come far due to wire lengths at the rear.

From behind, you will see how to depin the fuses

  • Like 1

Was able to pull out the terminal and identify. Posting here in case anyone searching in future needs this information.

This is the wiring terminal used for the blade fuses in the front fuse box of my Nissan Skyline R33 GTST.
Yazaki 7126-8771
https://www.nbzte.com/yazaki-connector-7126-8771.html

Thanks all for your help.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
On 16/11/2021 at 4:59 PM, Robospecta said:

Was able to pull out the terminal and identify. Posting here in case anyone searching in future needs this information.

This is the wiring terminal used for the blade fuses in the front fuse box of my Nissan Skyline R33 GTST.
Yazaki 7126-8771
https://www.nbzte.com/yazaki-connector-7126-8771.html

Thanks all for your help.

Excellent detective work...how did you identify that terminal?

  • Like 1

With about 10 - 20 hours of searching on the internet 😂 Unfortunately no markings or stamps on the terminal that I could see even under magnification.

Eventually I joined an Automotive Connector Identification group on Facebook, and searched for "Nissan" in their posts. Found a post with someone looking to identify a terminal on their 2000 Nissan Maxima. Someone had replied with a photo and part number of the terminal I was after. Didn't happen to be what the original poster was looking for, but I was certainly grateful that someone had commented it. 🙃
https://www.facebook.com/groups/4359499570789592/posts/6049608905111975

  • 4 weeks later...

Hi @sonic99 :) 

If you're looking for the part numbers for a "front fuse box cover" perhaps best to start a new thread where we can help you. This thread is concerned with the terminals crimped onto the end of wires in the fuse box.

If you are in fact looking for "front fuse box wire terminals" then if you post a photo I can compare with mine and let you know if the part number above is applicable. I can't see why it would be different.

  • Thanks 1
  • 1 year later...
On 11/11/2021 at 12:02 AM, Duncan said:

I can't confirm the connector to buy separately and I guess you mean load not negative for the side you are trying to add.

Having said that, groups of fuses will unclip from the main holder. You can see the little tabs in your first pic, eg to the left of the left hand 15A fuse - you need to flick all of them out then pull the section out of the frame. If you can't get every clip at the same time (lots of little screwdrivers...) you need to start at one end with a couple of tabs and pull the holder up far enough to get past the clips, then hold it up and move to the next set.

That will get the fuse holder out of the frame, but you may ind it can't come far due to wire lengths at the rear.

From behind, you will see how to depin the fuses

I need help getting mine out

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah nice idea, you mean to suction it to the gauges? I hadn't thought of that.
    • A few suggestions: Do you have the option of retarding your exhaust cam gear to bring the power band over to the left? VCT would be turned off after you make peak torque, you see the power/torque will decay faster with it left on all the way to the limiter Once VCT is turned off, you'll find the motor will take a bit more timing being ramped in Send its mum, more boost! Of course, depends on your exhaust pressure.
    • Tow a boat... people won't know wtf is going on 🤣 
    • I was back on the dyno again yesterday after completely revamping my methanol injection system. I was making 440kw at 19psi. Great, this is more then I was making last summer with my old meth system at that pressure, and I figured it would be smooth sailing up to 30+psi. We continued increasing from there and by 25psi, I had only hit 455kw. Dyno sadly lost utility power at this point and I left. We seemed to be on course to hit the same power wall as last summer (477kw@27psi). This is a built RB25 S1 stroked to a 2.8. Built and ported head with Kelford 272/262 cams. Precision 6466 Turbo. Tuner last year believed the power wall is a mix of RPM limitations (Hydro lifters/Limit set at 7600RPM) and fueling. With my new meth system, we're seeing zero knock now but it still won't go up.  What else can I do at this point? Here's my train of thought.  - It's clear from the dyno graph that I would easily make power to 8500+RPM but I'm limited to 7600RPM. I could risk increasing my limiter, but hydro lifters have me worried. What are my options here besides going NEO head or solid lifter conversion? I'm rocking a 1.05AR turbine on my 6466. Would dropping down to a .84 help shift that power down in anyway? - We're only seeing roughly a 30kw difference at the top end with VCT on or off. Is this normal? I want to confirm VCT is working properly. - Should I look into other cam options?  - Should I just keep increasing boost and see if she wakes up later on? I would expect to hit 600rwkw around 35psi with my 6466.   
×
×
  • Create New...