Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Right So got my s3 r33 gtr gearbox to go into my 89 r32 gtr

Gotta do the pull to push conversion...so means draining the oil in the box to take the front plate off ,my understanding is the oil in the box currently is just a small amount of storage oil?

is that the case?

if so is it safe to refill the oil out of the box with the permanent stuff before attaching the transfer case  and getting it on the car or is there a good chance some will spill out the back

during this process? anyone done it this way?

Cheers!

gearbox3.jpg

gearbox2.jpg

gearbox.jpg

gearbox4.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/483315-gtr-gearbox-install/
Share on other sites

And me sorry too, because I followed your lead with brain switched off and I also actually meant "do you really want to go pull clutch?" So my 1st post should look like:

Do you really want to go pull clutch?

Would it not be easier to just drill and tap for the push clutch on the R33 belhousing and use the bits you need from the R32?

Would it not be better to go all modern and concentric, if not wanting to retrofit push clutch?

 

Not really sure of the order you are thinking, but you need front plate with chosen clutch pivot and xfer case on before you fit it in the car.

Yes you can fill the gearbox and transfer case before you install it, and no you won't lose any (or much) oil if you do it that way

On 2/10/2022 at 11:57 AM, BK said:

If swapping pull to push, remember the Threebond not threadlocker on the input shaft front cover bottom 3 bolts when refitting, or else it will leak.

whats the difference?  is this the stuff?

https://www.repco.co.nz/en/car-care-panel/adhesives-sealants/gasket-cements/threebond-high-temperature-rtv-silicone-liquid-gasket-250gm-grey-1215-250/p/A1130561?kwSearch=threebond

You can use either of the above but preferred is 1207C - the red / brown stuff as it is anti sag, cures faster, has higher temp rating and a superior oil resistance to the ones mentioned. Same stuff used on an RB26 sump.

Never used that CRC one but "appears" to be the 1207C equivalent. Threebond is actually what Nissan sells as their factory RTV from Japan (sourced from Australia).

Some people still use the 1215 grey as it cures slower on sumps, which gives more time when stuffing around fitting it - but it is definitely not as high temp or as oil resistant.

Look harder, it's there. 15 - 20Nm something like that. Seriously though just use a 3/8 drive and tighten it moderately. The sealant on those lower bolts are definitely more important than the exact torque settings.

Transfer case to box torque settings yes, but below was referring to gearbox input shaft front cover

On 10/02/2022 at 7:19 PM, boomtheroom said:

Btw Anyone know what the torque settings are for these cant find anything in the workshop manual...

I'm sure Duncan will have that page handy for exact torque 👍

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...