Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Right So got my s3 r33 gtr gearbox to go into my 89 r32 gtr

Gotta do the pull to push conversion...so means draining the oil in the box to take the front plate off ,my understanding is the oil in the box currently is just a small amount of storage oil?

is that the case?

if so is it safe to refill the oil out of the box with the permanent stuff before attaching the transfer case  and getting it on the car or is there a good chance some will spill out the back

during this process? anyone done it this way?

Cheers!

gearbox3.jpg

gearbox2.jpg

gearbox.jpg

gearbox4.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/483315-gtr-gearbox-install/
Share on other sites

And me sorry too, because I followed your lead with brain switched off and I also actually meant "do you really want to go pull clutch?" So my 1st post should look like:

Do you really want to go pull clutch?

Would it not be easier to just drill and tap for the push clutch on the R33 belhousing and use the bits you need from the R32?

Would it not be better to go all modern and concentric, if not wanting to retrofit push clutch?

 

Not really sure of the order you are thinking, but you need front plate with chosen clutch pivot and xfer case on before you fit it in the car.

Yes you can fill the gearbox and transfer case before you install it, and no you won't lose any (or much) oil if you do it that way

On 2/10/2022 at 11:57 AM, BK said:

If swapping pull to push, remember the Threebond not threadlocker on the input shaft front cover bottom 3 bolts when refitting, or else it will leak.

whats the difference?  is this the stuff?

https://www.repco.co.nz/en/car-care-panel/adhesives-sealants/gasket-cements/threebond-high-temperature-rtv-silicone-liquid-gasket-250gm-grey-1215-250/p/A1130561?kwSearch=threebond

You can use either of the above but preferred is 1207C - the red / brown stuff as it is anti sag, cures faster, has higher temp rating and a superior oil resistance to the ones mentioned. Same stuff used on an RB26 sump.

Never used that CRC one but "appears" to be the 1207C equivalent. Threebond is actually what Nissan sells as their factory RTV from Japan (sourced from Australia).

Some people still use the 1215 grey as it cures slower on sumps, which gives more time when stuffing around fitting it - but it is definitely not as high temp or as oil resistant.

Look harder, it's there. 15 - 20Nm something like that. Seriously though just use a 3/8 drive and tighten it moderately. The sealant on those lower bolts are definitely more important than the exact torque settings.

Transfer case to box torque settings yes, but below was referring to gearbox input shaft front cover

On 10/02/2022 at 7:19 PM, boomtheroom said:

Btw Anyone know what the torque settings are for these cant find anything in the workshop manual...

I'm sure Duncan will have that page handy for exact torque 👍

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, I've never pressed the X in all these years incase it removed the notification for all Admins
    • I don't know, I've never done it that way, but 1. While it is an interference engine, there is still clearance between the valves and the piston at all points in the regular timing cycle 2. There is not a lot of distance before you can't catch the top of the valve stem any more I don't know if 2 is greater or less than 1. But 3. If it doesn't work out you are f**ked, engine is coming out to disassemble so it is a big bet.
    • Semi slicks are horrible for road use, just use a high performance road tyre unless you really need the maximum grip. Noisy, unpredictable (amazing, until they are not), expensive due to very high wear and not good in cold and particular wet. And yes, it is a thing to store cars on stands instead of tyres if you know they are going to be parked up long term.....but who ever realises that a short park is going to stretch into years before it is out again!
    • I know in Australia you'll definitely get above 30c. Parked in the shade in Summer you'll be above that. 😛 But in cooler climates, you might get that warm driving on the highway for a bit, but you'd never get to full heat temp. I'll try and find some of my historical tyre temps between Aus summer and winter (be aware immin the warmer area of Aus too.)
    • I get that taking off the head is best but that's a bit much for "just" valve seals. I was just under the impression that one would be able to rotate to TDC and be able to temporarily drop the valve without losing it and effectively having to remove the head to then recover it. I never knew people actually pushed rope into the cylinder to do valve seals hahaha So just to confirm, just going to TDC will not work? In that case I know when I do valve seals I'll maybe just remove the head and do some other things while I'm there, or just wait until I do an engine build.
×
×
  • Create New...