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Help Choosing Replacement Starter Motor

simsy
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simsy Rookie

simsy

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Hi all,

Recently my manual 1997 R33 GTST decided it doesn't want to start anymore. A loud single click can be heard from the starter but it doesn't turn. Battery had a dead cell due to an unrelated parasitic draw issue. Replaced battery, still no go. Occasionally jumping works.

I've pulled my starter off and I can't find any exact replacements for it. It's Nissan part number 23300-20P11.

I've found OEX part BXS0104 which some sites say 'should' fit, some don't.

The main difference I'm concerned about is that the starter that I pulled off is an 8 tooth starter, the OEX and all the others I can find listed for R33 GTST are 9 tooth.

Cooldrive apparently stock an 8 tooth, but it's only 0.8kw whereas mine is 1.4kw.

Are they interchangeable? Did someone do a dodgy swap on my car in it's previous life?

BK Grand Master

BK

Posted
Posted

These are all the starter motor part numbers between genuine Mitsubishi and Hitachi OEM Nissan ones that are interchangeable:

23300-AA300
23300-20P10
23300-20P01
23300-20P05
23300-20P11
23300-AA111
23300-AA112

Kudos have the 1.4kw genuine latest 23300-AA300 one.

http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/starter-motor-suit-nissan-skyline-rb26dett-p-2055.html

If you want to be a budget arse this will fit from Sleeka in Adelaide:

https://sleekaspares.com.au/product/starter-motor-suit-rb20-rb25-rb26-rb30/

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simsy Rookie

simsy

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On 3/3/2022 at 6:34 PM, BK said:

These are all the starter motor part numbers between genuine Mitsubishi and Hitachi OEM Nissan ones that are interchangeable:

23300-AA300
23300-20P10
23300-20P01
23300-20P05
23300-20P11
23300-AA111
23300-AA112

Kudos have the 1.4kw genuine latest 23300-AA300 one.

http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/starter-motor-suit-nissan-skyline-rb26dett-p-2055.html

If you want to be a budget arse this will fit from Sleeka in Adelaide:

https://sleekaspares.com.au/product/starter-motor-suit-rb20-rb25-rb26-rb30/

Thanks BK, much appreciated.

BK Grand Master

BK

Posted
Posted

No worries. For comparison the last time I purchased a genuine starter I got the lastest revision Hitachi 23300-AA300 model back in mid 2018 from RHDjapan for $690 + DHL freight from Japan, so the Kudos price is about right thesesdays for genuine.

I waste money all the time though on being "genuine" with GTRs and all that, so the Sleeka spares one will probably do you fine to save a dollar.

robbo_rb180 Grand Master

robbo_rb180

Posted
Posted

I replaced my starter end of last year with the oex and haven't had any problems. Just be aware there is 2 posts on the solenoid that the starter wire may work on one and not the other.

simsy Rookie

simsy

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Well I got the new starter, got it installed, figured out which wire was the ignition trigger and it's presenting the same issues as the old one. Solenoid clicks when I turn the key but nothing.

Battery voltage drops from 12.4v to 10v when I attempt to start it but still nothing. I've checked fuses and attempted jumping.

I disconnected the power from the starter and just left the ignition wire connected. Same behavior and voltage drop.

I'm a bit stumped. Seems like the starter isn't getting any power?

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

It could also be an earth issue so check the engine block is well earthed to the battery.

You said in the first post you changed the battery, right? Did the symptom change at all when you did?  You can have them die so they seem to have a full charge but they can't deliver serious current

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Nostalgia Explorer

Nostalgia

Posted
Posted

Not sure if this is related. I recently had a issue with the car not starting randomly. starter motor clicks but no cranks. did the all the usual troubleshooting steps with no luck. the only way to start was via jump starting with another battery.

The issue resolved itself when i reverted the ECU back to stock whilst fixing another unrelated problem. This had got me scratching my head. Would love to get a second opinion.

 

robbo_rb180 Grand Master

robbo_rb180

Posted
Posted (edited)

Use a multimeter to check for continuity from engine block to chassis and battery negative post to chassis. Sounds like a grounding issue. 

The factory ground straps are generally worn or not refitted properly after engine swaps/removal. I usually make 2 new ones and never have an issue again.  

Edited by robbo_rb180
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simsy Rookie

simsy

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Alright. Took the battery to Supercheap and according to them it's reading 12.7 volts and slightly higher CCA than it's rated for.

Cleaned up the earth points in the engine bay. Engine has been replaced and all the leads look new but I roughed them up a bit with a wire brush same with the cable for the starter, still nothing.

The voltage reading from the relay box in the engine bay is different to voltage reading directly from the battery. What's more when I turn the key the relay box voltage goes from 12.7 down to 8 when "on" and then down to 0.6 when I try to start it. Once the ignition is off it takes the relay box voltage reading a minute to build up again, but quickly testing the battery still reads above 12v.

Also, if I remove the power windows fuse, the voltage increases. Still won't start without this fuse. Car jumps just fine if I connect the jumpers to the relay box and will keep running when the jumper leads are removed.

I'm guessing this means there's something between the battery and starter that's causing a voltage drop. I'm also curious about the power window fuse. It's not an insignificant drop. Could the issue be somewhere along that line?

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