Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

On the track (as in a circuit not a 400 straight line) I've seen my fuel temps go above 65 degrees after 10 laps of Wakefield.

Day to day driving around town probably 30s to 40s, mind you I run PWM so both pumps in the surge are duty cycled. The DW200 lift pump however is just on factory wiring with the resistor deleted.

And no your fuel temp isn't that high.

Not high at all. In the NT until I staged my two 400lph AEM external pumps with twin -8 feeds from surge with AEM 340lph in tank pump I was seeing 70 - 75 on the highway, ambients were above 40 though. After staging the 400s the temps came down under 50.

On the other 32 with PWM we had similar reduction in temp as Johnny suggested on a single Walbro 525lph pump.

  • Like 1
On 3/28/2022 at 9:23 AM, Predator1 said:

Thinking of adding the Setrab fan assisted cooler.

I wouldn't bother unless;

  • You're having fuel temp related problems that you didn't mention, or
  • You're going to change the way that you use the car that could/would lead to heat either increasing or being more of an issue, or
  • You like introducing more points of failure.
  • Like 1

I would not stage the pumps and duty cycle them together and ramp them up based on MAP (as the load axis).

At 100hz, the Walbro 450/460s don't like any duty under 40% they start to make an awful hum, however any higher they seem ok!

I suspect your pumps wouldn't be too far off that.

Part of the problem you have is 1x pump is always at full filt _ your lift pump. They're heating up your fuel unnecessarily. 

 

Also, if you have proper injector data and fuel data i.e. fuel temp vs fuel density vs. ethanol then there's no real issue with warm fuel.

This is how I've done mine (note must tuning shops will not do this, as customers don't pay them enough for their time - Link and MoTec have this predefined).

image.thumb.png.1907e8fa6b99748a9fc2f07c6edd00d7.png

On 28/03/2022 at 12:47 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

I would not stage the pumps and duty cycle them together and ramp them up based on MAP (as the load axis).

At 100hz, the Walbro 450/460s don't like any duty under 40% they start to make an awful hum, however any higher they seem ok!

I suspect your pumps wouldn't be too far off that.

Part of the problem you have is 1x pump is always at full filt _ your lift pump. They're heating up your fuel unnecessarily. 

 

Also, if you have proper injector data and fuel data i.e. fuel temp vs fuel density vs. ethanol then there's no real issue with warm fuel.

This is how I've done mine (note must tuning shops will not do this, as customers don't pay them enough for their time - Link and MoTec have this predefined).

image.thumb.png.1907e8fa6b99748a9fc2f07c6edd00d7.png

I used your fuel density table you sent me and put it in the Elite before Simon tuned it at Morpowa last year, very handy 👍

  • Like 1
On 28/03/2022 at 2:23 PM, BK said:

I used your fuel density table you sent me and put it in the Elite before Simon tuned it at Morpowa last year, very handy 👍

no more silly AFR hunting at idle, regardless of fuel temp or big injectors :) 

Haltech is great, provided it's used properly.

400902463_FPSetup.thumb.PNG.dab39a5be7e6b07d86d35f35dda0a9c0.PNG14233463_FPDuty.thumb.PNG.239b18e14e711d2820d01921307e2cd9.PNG

 

Funny you mentioned the hum noise, cos mine makes that too. I noticed in the logs stats, from memory my max Inj DC is around 38%.. So judging by that, my FP's sitting under 70%?? I think with PWM its the opposite?

What's your PWM setup?

 

On 28/03/2022 at 4:17 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

I would not stage the pumps and duty cycle them together and ramp them up based on MAP (as the load axis).

At 100hz, the Walbro 450/460s don't like any duty under 40% they start to make an awful hum, however any higher they seem ok!

I suspect your pumps wouldn't be too far off that.

Part of the problem you have is 1x pump is always at full filt _ your lift pump. They're heating up your fuel unnecessarily. 

 

Also, if you have proper injector data and fuel data i.e. fuel temp vs fuel density vs. ethanol then there's no real issue with warm fuel.

This is how I've done mine (note must tuning shops will not do this, as customers don't pay them enough for their time - Link and MoTec have this predefined).

image.thumb.png.1907e8fa6b99748a9fc2f07c6edd00d7.png

 

On 28/03/2022 at 5:30 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

ooo I lied, I run it at 200hz

image.thumb.png.28d48641d64f99dde2fbb0f277e4f30a.png

 

It's 100AMP Jaycar SSR, with flyback diodes on each Walbro 450L

Ah yeah so mines at 250hz, doubt that be an issue. The tuner didnt stick flybacks on my SSR which I always was a bit dubious about. I run the 100A SSR too. 

On 28/03/2022 at 3:38 PM, Predator1 said:

The tuner didnt stick flybacks on my SSR which I always was a bit dubious about

You need flyback diodes, if not your SSRs would be ripping hot and will fail with time.

On 28/03/2022 at 2:10 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Look at us, all so modern :) 

Love it - running all pumps full tilt all the time is stupid!

I'd like to PWM the blue 32 with the twin 400 pumps, but can't be stuffed so it will stay staged. It works perfectly and probably draws less current than PWMing 2 pumps simultaneously. PWM on the primary external and keep the secondary staged if I can be bothered would be the go.

For Predator1 - absolutely use a flyback diode as above. I like the 1N5404 at 400v / 3A for a bit of overkill.

  • Like 1
On 28/03/2022 at 2:26 PM, Predator1 said:

Thanks guys. I'm just concerned about my tune. 

So safe to just stick 1 flyback across the SSR terminals that go towards my pumps? I think both pumps get their positive from the SSR. I'll have to double check.

The best place for a flyback diode is at the load, so across the pump terminals ideally.

.IMG_20210626_115220_0.thumb.jpg.4b9eaa7b756269c3b7d8cf71b3c8eb65.jpg

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Join SAU NSW for a flame-grilled feed & flame-spitting cruise! Sunday 17th August 2025 3:30PM Meeting Archies Flame Grille Sylvania Waters 4:45PM Cruise Departure 5:15PM Arrival at Cape Solander Kurnell Meet Location: Archies Flame Grille Final Destination: Cape Solander Kurnell *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
    • Yeah good luck out there! Will be good to see a mighty GTST going harder than the GTRs
    • i will be there 😁
    • Hello!  i just finished manual swaping my r34 skyline with a r33 rb20de box(RB71C)box  When the car is running it squeaks crazy loud and it was smoking from the gearbox area. The gearbox is fine it was tested. The clutch slave cylinder seems like it doesn't fully releases the clutch. I want to ask if this noise is from the throw out bearing or could it be the clutch assembly or disk att.xFliq87Gzw6kImKBVqDebXkj0fBqymk0JaYeP3_3SlM.mp4
    • A few small updates since the previous post and lessons. I decided to do a little interior light upgrade on the 110. I quite like the iilumo items, even if they're a bit of a premium over other brands. You'll also note the Stedi Fogs, that will go into the S15 fog lights as I needed to match the bulbs since I got the new ones earlier. I hope they fit as the body is quite a bit longer than your normal bulb.  Annoyingly, I managed to trip the fuse, which normally wouldn't be an issue until I located the fuse. I can't say I've ever come across this. I had lucked out that someone nearby had a spare, but oddly enough Toyota dealerships seem to keep this in stock. I ordered some to keep in my stash and as luck would have it, someone else nearby tripped the same fuse so I passed on the favour.  I also did a little service on the 110 ahead of some additional work coming up. It's been annoying that Goleby's stopped carrying this particular HKS filter for the 110, so now I need to keep them on order from Japan. I also took the opportunity to install a bash plate and number plate riser. The plate riser is such a cheap but nice fix to help really tidy up the car. I'm tempted to now also replace my headlights, on this car. Both items were from Project Aero.    I also needed to replace the rear tyres on the 110, and after trying to get it aligned learnt that I need to replace some bushes in the front end, so that's next.  Closing out this update with a nicer picture as always! 
×
×
  • Create New...