Jump to content
SAU Community

Bosch 82mm DBW Throttle Body - School me

TurboTapin
 Share

Recommended Posts

TurboTapin Experienced

TurboTapin

Posted
Posted (edited)

Purchased a Bosch 82mm throttle and 350Z pedal amongst other things to go drive by wire. I know they sell a range of different adaptors for the throttle body (Plazmaman, Tarks, etc.) but originally how was this throttle body mated up to a pipe? How was that little 1/2" flange meant to be used? Is the chamfer for an O-ring? 

Couldn't find any information online and was very curious...

 

 

BOSCH-82-DBW-5.jpg

Edited by TurboTapin
  • TurboTapin changed the title to Bosch 82mm DBW Throttle Body - School me
joshuaho96 Veteran

joshuaho96

Posted
Posted (edited)

Looks like the back of it is just flat, so you'd have a gasket and then some bolts that hold it to the intake. If it's anything like the other DBW setups I've seen it's just a hose and hose clamp that goes over the front of the throttle body and the lip is there to keep the hose from slipping.

Edited by joshuaho96
TurboTapin Experienced

TurboTapin

Posted
  • Author
Posted
On 4/18/2022 at 8:47 PM, joshuaho96 said:

Looks like the back of it is just flat, so you'd have a gasket and then some bolts that hold it to the intake. 

I meant the other end of it. Where a pipe would mate up to it and not the intake manifold. 

TurboTapin Experienced

TurboTapin

Posted
  • Author
Posted
On 4/18/2022 at 8:47 PM, joshuaho96 said:

Looks like the back of it is just flat, so you'd have a gasket and then some bolts that hold it to the intake. If it's anything like the other DBW setups I've seen it's just a hose and hose clamp that goes over the front of the throttle body and the lip is there to keep the hose from slipping.

I doubt it. The chamfer and the lip thickness would not allow a pipe to be clamped on, not without slipping off anyways. 

joshuaho96 Veteran

joshuaho96

Posted
Posted (edited)
On 4/18/2022 at 5:54 PM, TurboTapin said:

I doubt it. The chamfer and the lip thickness would not allow a pipe to be clamped on, not without slipping off anyways. 

https://www.bosch-motorsport.com/content/downloads/Raceparts/Resources/pdf/Data Sheet_68749835_Electronic_Throttle_Body.pdf

It's really strange to me that their drawing here shows what I would expect, which is a lip to keep an intake pipe from slipping off and a flat section for sealing properly. This is 0280.750.101. Digging deeper into it apparently this is not what is being sold widely, rather it's whatever is being used by Porsche and other vendors. Looking at the EPC number 3 in this diagram is the pipe that connects up to the front of the throttle body:

image.thumb.png.eeda8bbba9c8fc89b19457d3412b8a28.png

Edit:

If you look at this guide showing how they clean the throttle body it's clear to me that the pipe has a lip in it and then a hose clamp that applies pressure to keep it from pulling off: https://www.planet-9.com/threads/how-to-throttle-body-cleaning-and-gdi-intake-cleaning.248159/

image.thumb.png.eea56a9f44a7b8167f57ce76ab5b5944.png

Edited by joshuaho96
  • Like 1
Dose Pipe Sutututu Grand Master

Dose Pipe Sutututu

Posted
Posted
On 19/04/2022 at 11:21 AM, r32-25t said:

In naturally aspirated form they’d be fine with a hose clamp, in a turbo application you’re better off with one of the adaptors you mentioned 

this!

I use a TAARKS adaptor on mine, seems to like 2bar of boost.

 

  • Like 3
joshuaho96 Veteran

joshuaho96

Posted
Posted
On 4/19/2022 at 6:23 AM, TurboTapin said:

Thanks guys! Very informative.  I never thought of N/A cars... only had boosted applications in mind. I'll definitely be purchasing an adapter. 

The design seen in the OEM part would definitely not pop off even under boost. Pretty substantial lip with a hose clamp to apply pressure to keep it from moving. The trouble is finding an aftermarket pipe that would replicate that design feature.

robbo_rb180 Grand Master

robbo_rb180

Posted
Posted
On 4/20/2022 at 8:41 AM, joshuaho96 said:

The design seen in the OEM part would definitely not pop off even under boost. Pretty substantial lip with a hose clamp to apply pressure to keep it from moving. The trouble is finding an aftermarket pipe that would replicate that design feature.

Without getting the genuine hose there is no way. 
I tried different silicone hoses & clamps. The lip isn't that big, barely there. other option is make a bracket that bolts to the intercooler pipe & pick up one of the TB bolts
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ToothDR32
      $5 Clock upgrade for R32 GTR

      By ToothDR32 · Posted

      Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • MissMintyR33
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By MissMintyR33 · Posted

      I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • GTSBoy
      Freddy Plenum vs Genuine options RB25

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
×
×
  • Create New...