Jump to content
SAU Community

Leaking clutch slave cylinder?

Meap
 Share

Recommended Posts

Meap Rookie

Meap

Posted
Posted

Hi guys, recently I suddenly lost almost all pressure in my clutch pedal, only the last few centimeters give any resistance. I'm still able to change gears and drive but the biting point is now at the very bottom whereas it used to be much more up top. I read some posts here and figured I probably have a leak somewhere. Got the car up on the lift and it seems like my slave cylinder might be leaking? The little boot is all sticky and when I pull the boot back quite some fluid spilled out, is this normal or does this indeed indicate that the slave is leaking?

Furthermore I noticed that the clutch booster (not the damper) is completely corroded from the bottom, so I'm assuming it's leaking as well? I've seen some delete kits and was wondering what you guys think of those? I don't mind a heavy clutch and I'm never going triple plate or something crazy like that anyway.

I've attached some pictures of the slave and the booster.

Any help much appreciated!

booster.jpg

slave cylinder.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/483709-leaking-clutch-slave-cylinder/
Share on other sites
Murray_Calavera Mentor

Murray_Calavera

Posted
Posted

I'd be very grateful that your car gave you notice regarding this issue, rather then leaving you stranded and needing a tow home. 

I would replace the master cylinder, slave cylinder and use a braided line that deletes the damper. The stuff from GKtech work well. 

You can bench bleed the complete system out of the car, then install it all together and do the final bleed once installed. Bench bleeding will get you 95% there and will make your life much easier. 

I've deleted my clutch damper and noticed 0% change in the way the clutch performs or feels. 

  • Like 1
Meap Rookie

Meap

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the quick response and the solid tip to bench bleed it!

About the damper, to avoid confusion, I believe you are talking about the clutch damper, the square box underneath the car, whereas I was asking about the clutch booster, which is behind the M/C mounted to the firewall. I will without a doubt get rid of the damper but deleting the booster seems to get mixed reactions on the forums.

Furthermore, a new booster appears to be around 400 AUD whereas a delete kit can be found for 100 AUD. This raises the question if the booster is really that needed.

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

You will be fine without the booster, it is one of those things that nissan over-engineered on the GTR.

Murray did mean that box and the looped clutch line, because again it is not required and does not improve things (in fact, it will make the new setup almost impossible to bleed as it traps air because it is horizontal not vertical).

The damage on your booster is due to the clutch master leaking brake fluid onto it, and it does look like the slave is also leaking. The booster damage is probably just cosmetic because if the booster was leaking you would notice poor/inconsistent clutch pedal feel and/or poor idle in the motor.

So, take the booster off, clean and paint it and reinstall, buy a new master and slave cylinder with a new braided line between the two and you will have another 30 years of trouble free clutching.

  • Like 1
Murray_Calavera Mentor

Murray_Calavera

Posted
Posted
On 6/2/2022 at 2:28 AM, Meap said:

Thanks for the quick response and the solid tip to bench bleed it!

About the damper, to avoid confusion, I believe you are talking about the clutch damper, the square box underneath the car, whereas I was asking about the clutch booster, which is behind the M/C mounted to the firewall. I will without a doubt get rid of the damper but deleting the booster seems to get mixed reactions on the forums.

Furthermore, a new booster appears to be around 400 AUD whereas a delete kit can be found for 100 AUD. This raises the question if the booster is really that needed.

Yes sorry, I was talking about the damper and not the booster. I've got a gtst and it doesn't have a booster so it didn't even come to mind when I was typing up my reply. 

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted
On 6/2/2022 at 5:01 AM, Duncan said:

The booster damage is probably just cosmetic because if the booster was leaking you would notice poor/inconsistent clutch pedal feel and/or poor idle in the motor.

So, take the booster off, clean and paint it and reinstall, buy a new master and slave cylinder with a new braided line between the two and you will have another 30 years of trouble free clutching.

With the caveat that brake fluid leaking into the booster can damage the diaphragm. So when taking it off and cleaning it on the outside, do your best to work out what the situation is inside, and deal with any fluid in there appropriately.

  • 4 weeks later...
TurboTapin Proficient

TurboTapin

Posted
Posted (edited)
On 6/1/2022 at 11:09 AM, Murray_Calavera said:

I'd be very grateful that your car gave you notice regarding this issue, rather then leaving you stranded and needing a tow home. 

I would replace the master cylinder, slave cylinder and use a braided line that deletes the damper. The stuff from GKtech work well. 

You can bench bleed the complete system out of the car, then install it all together and do the final bleed once installed. Bench bleeding will get you 95% there and will make your life much easier. 

I've deleted my clutch damper and noticed 0% change in the way the clutch performs or feels. 

No clutch leave you stranded? It's definitely a pity to drive but any manual car can be started and shifted through all gears without a clutch.

In my youth, I had a buddy run an 88 civic without a clutch pedal for 6 months before he could afford a new clutch cable lol. Why buy a clutch cable when you could buy smokes and beer... priorities when young and stupid lol. 

Edited by TurboTapin
Murray_Calavera Mentor

Murray_Calavera

Posted
Posted
On 6/28/2022 at 10:01 AM, TurboTapin said:

No clutch leave you stranded? It's definitely a pity to drive but any manual car can be started and shifted through all gears without a clutch.

In my youth, I had a buddy run an 88 civic without a clutch pedal for 6 months before he could afford a new clutch cable lol. Why buy a clutch cable when you could buy smokes and beer... priorities when young and stupid lol. 

Yep, master cylinder failed about 10km from home. So it was a cheap and quick tow home. 

I'm becoming an old man, I'd rather just get it towed then stuff about trying to drive it without a clutch lol. 

  • 2 weeks later...
BK Grand Master

BK

Posted
Posted
On 04/06/2022 at 8:23 PM, Meap said:

Thanks for all the replies guys! I bought a new master and slave, braided line and the booster delete by PRP. I'll keep you guys posted!

Instead of a new master you know a genuine RB26 clutch master cylinder rebuild kit is like $50 right ? 99% fixes an issue unless the inner bore is scored to shit. Generally just the plunger seal lets go.

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted
On 7/9/2022 at 8:17 PM, BK said:

Instead of a new master you know a genuine RB26 clutch master cylinder rebuild kit is like $50 right ? 99% fixes an issue unless the inner bore is scored to shit. Generally just the plunger seal lets go.

NOBODY ever seems to listen when i talk about rebuilding hydraulic components.....so good luck with this advice Ben.

  • Haha 1
Murray_Calavera Mentor

Murray_Calavera

Posted
Posted (edited)
On 7/10/2022 at 3:33 PM, GTSBoy said:

NOBODY ever seems to listen when i talk about rebuilding hydraulic components.....so good luck with this advice Ben.

To be fair, I went looking for a rebuild kit for the RB25 clutch master cylinder... Couldn't find anyone that had one. 

So I just grabbed a new one from GKtech for $86 and figured no one sells rebuild kits for them when you can buy an entire new one for such a low price. 

https://au.gktech.com/products/gearbox-clutch-components/clutch-masters/hfm-clutch-master-cylinder-s14-s15-r33

Edited by Murray_Calavera
  • 9 months later...
Meap Rookie

Meap

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Just to close this topic off and help people that might have the same issue I did, after replacing the aforementioned parts, all problems were resolved (as expected).

Some notes I want to add;
1) I don't notice any significant change in pedal feel after removing both the clutch damper (square box) and the clutch booster
2) I didn't bench bleed the system before installing it and despite my strong simplification of the system it was still a PITA to get all the air out, so for anyone looking to do the same as me, please bench bleed it first

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • Kinkstaah
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...