Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Recently done a bunch of upgrades to my 32 sedan and having some issues with the AFR. Was standard rb20det with just ISR exhaust, FMIC, and an op6 turbo until the seals decided they were done on the turbo. 
So I got a new gt2860rs, nistune (installed and tuned by rs enthalpy), deatschwerks 550’s, aeromotive fpr set at 45psi, walbro 255 , z32 maf, and aem UEGO.

Upon start up my wideband reads 14.7 but within 5-10 seconds will peg out to - - - meaning lean. I tried hooking the white wire (signal output) from AEM to the white wire on the o2 harness but it didn’t make a difference? I’ve also tried putting the sensor in the upstream (3” from hot side) and downstream (36” from hot side) positions with no luck on either? 

If it’s in the upstream position and under a lot of throttle it will richen SOME (16-17) but shouldn’t it be sitting around 13-15 at idle??? Have not tried driving the car yet to put it under load…

Am I missing something? Seems I’ve misplaced my old o2 sensor but should I just get another and resort back to narrowband to see if that fixes the AFR?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/483921-nistune-wideband-help/
Share on other sites

Have you set MAF to z32?
set injector size?

When I have used nistune, wideband is connected to the laptop via USB.
If can't connect to laptop put the sensor in the dump pipe bung and just adjust it reading off the guage.

@Dose Pipe Sutututu has more Nistune experience than me

  • Like 1

Depends on your AEM gauge, older ones has the option to simulate a 0-1V output which could be used to send back to your ECU for narrowband O2 feedback.

However needs to be noted, if the tune had the O2 feedback disabled wiring it back will do absolutely nothing. 

If your car is pegging that lean there may be another issue. You'll need to plug up and monitor the AFM voltage and TP Load and see if it's doing something weird and tracing into parts of a map that has been untuned.

I highly would recommend you bring it back to your tuner.

On 8/7/2022 at 9:40 PM, robbo_rb180 said:

Have you set MAF to z32?
set injector size?

When I have used nistune, wideband is connected to the laptop via USB.
If can't connect to laptop put the sensor in the dump pipe bung and just adjust it reading off the guage.

@Dose Pipe Sutututu has more Nistune experience than me

I sent Martin the list of parts I just mentioned for him to set the base tune parameters around that, including the wideband in place of the o2.

will need to find someone with a laptop and consult cable to check and see if that’s been done correctly. 

On 8/7/2022 at 10:17 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Depends on your AEM gauge, older ones has the option to simulate a 0-1V output which could be used to send back to your ECU for narrowband O2 feedback.

However needs to be noted, if the tune had the O2 feedback disabled wiring it back will do absolutely nothing. 

If your car is pegging that lean there may be another issue. You'll need to plug up and monitor the AFM voltage and TP Load and see if it's doing something weird and tracing into parts of a map that has been untuned.

I highly would recommend you bring it back to your tuner.

I purchased the UEGO at the end of last year. The manual said white wire was 0-5v. I know the standard signal is >1v for these cars.

 

will have to find someone with a laptop and consult cable to check into the tune. Appreciate your quick replies. 
 

also it may be worth mentioning I have a standard fuel rail, one that came with a regulator on both sides. I replaced the one at the beginning of the rail with one of those ISR pass thru’s but left the one at the exit. Could this also be causing an issue or it’s unlikely to make a difference? 

Edited by Axt3365
On 8/8/2022 at 6:03 AM, GTSBoy said:

There's your problem. The stocker is not a reg, it is a pulsation dampener.

Meaning it won’t let enough fuel pass through the rail despite what pressure is on feed side? 
 

just ordered another to replace the dampener and see if that makes a difference. Thanks! 

Edited by Axt3365

Another thing that comes to mind, have you given the fuel pump full voltage and bypassed the stupid factory drop resistor?

Easiest way to just connect the pump's -ve from the fuel tank lid direct to chassis to bypass the FPCM/drop resistor.

Is your fuel pressure respecting the requested pressure + manifold pressure/vacuum?

On 8/8/2022 at 6:53 AM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Another thing that comes to mind, have you given the fuel pump full voltage and bypassed the stupid factory drop resistor?

Easiest way to just connect the pump's -ve from the fuel tank lid direct to chassis to bypass the FPCM/drop resistor.

Is your fuel pressure respecting the requested pressure + manifold pressure/vacuum?

I have not bypassed it, just connected back as factory fuel pump was. I’ll try that this evening. 
 

the gauge on FPR is holding steady @ 45psi 

Edited by Axt3365

RBs are tough little things, to rule out any air leaks through the hot side, I suggest just take the car for a gentle drive and gentle load it up till close to 100kPA aka 0 psi for you Muricansssssss.

See if your AFR readings are somewhat richer than stoich.

I nearly feel you may have an small manifold leak somewhere OR a dump pipe leak somewhere that's introducing additional air into your exhaust stream thus the lean reading.

Anyhow, easiest way to diagnose all this is on a dyno.

  • Like 1
On 8/8/2022 at 6:13 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

RBs are tough little things, to rule out any air leaks through the hot side, I suggest just take the car for a gentle drive and gentle load it up till close to 100kPA aka 0 psi for you Muricansssssss.

See if your AFR readings are somewhat richer than stoich.

I nearly feel you may have an small manifold leak somewhere OR a dump pipe leak somewhere that's introducing additional air into your exhaust stream thus the lean reading.

Anyhow, easiest way to diagnose all this is on a dyno.

I appreciate all your help and advice. I’ll finish tying up my loose ends, and get the car rolling around the neighborhood in the next few days and report back!

  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...