Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Recently done a bunch of upgrades to my 32 sedan and having some issues with the AFR. Was standard rb20det with just ISR exhaust, FMIC, and an op6 turbo until the seals decided they were done on the turbo. 
So I got a new gt2860rs, nistune (installed and tuned by rs enthalpy), deatschwerks 550’s, aeromotive fpr set at 45psi, walbro 255 , z32 maf, and aem UEGO.

Upon start up my wideband reads 14.7 but within 5-10 seconds will peg out to - - - meaning lean. I tried hooking the white wire (signal output) from AEM to the white wire on the o2 harness but it didn’t make a difference? I’ve also tried putting the sensor in the upstream (3” from hot side) and downstream (36” from hot side) positions with no luck on either? 

If it’s in the upstream position and under a lot of throttle it will richen SOME (16-17) but shouldn’t it be sitting around 13-15 at idle??? Have not tried driving the car yet to put it under load…

Am I missing something? Seems I’ve misplaced my old o2 sensor but should I just get another and resort back to narrowband to see if that fixes the AFR?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/483921-nistune-wideband-help/
Share on other sites

Have you set MAF to z32?
set injector size?

When I have used nistune, wideband is connected to the laptop via USB.
If can't connect to laptop put the sensor in the dump pipe bung and just adjust it reading off the guage.

@Dose Pipe Sutututu has more Nistune experience than me

  • Like 1

Depends on your AEM gauge, older ones has the option to simulate a 0-1V output which could be used to send back to your ECU for narrowband O2 feedback.

However needs to be noted, if the tune had the O2 feedback disabled wiring it back will do absolutely nothing. 

If your car is pegging that lean there may be another issue. You'll need to plug up and monitor the AFM voltage and TP Load and see if it's doing something weird and tracing into parts of a map that has been untuned.

I highly would recommend you bring it back to your tuner.

On 8/7/2022 at 9:40 PM, robbo_rb180 said:

Have you set MAF to z32?
set injector size?

When I have used nistune, wideband is connected to the laptop via USB.
If can't connect to laptop put the sensor in the dump pipe bung and just adjust it reading off the guage.

@Dose Pipe Sutututu has more Nistune experience than me

I sent Martin the list of parts I just mentioned for him to set the base tune parameters around that, including the wideband in place of the o2.

will need to find someone with a laptop and consult cable to check and see if that’s been done correctly. 

On 8/7/2022 at 10:17 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Depends on your AEM gauge, older ones has the option to simulate a 0-1V output which could be used to send back to your ECU for narrowband O2 feedback.

However needs to be noted, if the tune had the O2 feedback disabled wiring it back will do absolutely nothing. 

If your car is pegging that lean there may be another issue. You'll need to plug up and monitor the AFM voltage and TP Load and see if it's doing something weird and tracing into parts of a map that has been untuned.

I highly would recommend you bring it back to your tuner.

I purchased the UEGO at the end of last year. The manual said white wire was 0-5v. I know the standard signal is >1v for these cars.

 

will have to find someone with a laptop and consult cable to check into the tune. Appreciate your quick replies. 
 

also it may be worth mentioning I have a standard fuel rail, one that came with a regulator on both sides. I replaced the one at the beginning of the rail with one of those ISR pass thru’s but left the one at the exit. Could this also be causing an issue or it’s unlikely to make a difference? 

Edited by Axt3365
On 8/8/2022 at 6:03 AM, GTSBoy said:

There's your problem. The stocker is not a reg, it is a pulsation dampener.

Meaning it won’t let enough fuel pass through the rail despite what pressure is on feed side? 
 

just ordered another to replace the dampener and see if that makes a difference. Thanks! 

Edited by Axt3365

Another thing that comes to mind, have you given the fuel pump full voltage and bypassed the stupid factory drop resistor?

Easiest way to just connect the pump's -ve from the fuel tank lid direct to chassis to bypass the FPCM/drop resistor.

Is your fuel pressure respecting the requested pressure + manifold pressure/vacuum?

On 8/8/2022 at 6:53 AM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Another thing that comes to mind, have you given the fuel pump full voltage and bypassed the stupid factory drop resistor?

Easiest way to just connect the pump's -ve from the fuel tank lid direct to chassis to bypass the FPCM/drop resistor.

Is your fuel pressure respecting the requested pressure + manifold pressure/vacuum?

I have not bypassed it, just connected back as factory fuel pump was. I’ll try that this evening. 
 

the gauge on FPR is holding steady @ 45psi 

Edited by Axt3365

RBs are tough little things, to rule out any air leaks through the hot side, I suggest just take the car for a gentle drive and gentle load it up till close to 100kPA aka 0 psi for you Muricansssssss.

See if your AFR readings are somewhat richer than stoich.

I nearly feel you may have an small manifold leak somewhere OR a dump pipe leak somewhere that's introducing additional air into your exhaust stream thus the lean reading.

Anyhow, easiest way to diagnose all this is on a dyno.

  • Like 1
On 8/8/2022 at 6:13 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

RBs are tough little things, to rule out any air leaks through the hot side, I suggest just take the car for a gentle drive and gentle load it up till close to 100kPA aka 0 psi for you Muricansssssss.

See if your AFR readings are somewhat richer than stoich.

I nearly feel you may have an small manifold leak somewhere OR a dump pipe leak somewhere that's introducing additional air into your exhaust stream thus the lean reading.

Anyhow, easiest way to diagnose all this is on a dyno.

I appreciate all your help and advice. I’ll finish tying up my loose ends, and get the car rolling around the neighborhood in the next few days and report back!

  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...