Jump to content
SAU Community

Sum up R32GTR Build before tune - Parts ?

reallyspeedly
 Share

Recommended Posts

reallyspeedly Contributor

reallyspeedly

Posted
Posted

First of all. Thanks to everyone in this forum helping me out with my wierd questions back and forth.

So before i install everything on my GTR and send it away for a tune i will sum up the parts that ive now bought/on its way and let me know if there is anything else you would recommend me doing that could be important.

Engine:

Garrett GT28-5 x 2

JE-pistons 8.2:1

Eagle H-Beam rods

ACL race main and rod bearings

Oil pump collar installed

Fuel:
Bosch 980cc injectors

Walbro 535/E85 pump (no check valve) I guess i can buy a check valve and connect it to the pump?
 

Other:
AEM X-Serie lambda

New Air tempsensor
Older verision of LINK G4 ECU

(upcoming: Gonna remove old fuel hoses for new ones, change oil pressure sensor, attach oil accumulator, )

I guess a new clutch is what i need aswell. Advices? Been running Competition clutch before on other car. But would rather spend less money on this one.

 

Something else in these cars that i need to upgrade when im gonna run -5s? (Low power as possible with -5s)

joshuaho96 Veteran

joshuaho96

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, Ben C34 said:

You want fuel pressure sensor on that list.

Oil cooler?

Head refresh?

Replace every coolant hose.

 

 

 

 

The coolant hose/vacuum hose line item is easily north of 500 USD these days if you really do replace every last hose and pipe that has questionable integrity.

  • Like 1
BK Grand Master

BK

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, joshuaho96 said:

The coolant hose/vacuum hose line item is easily north of 500 USD these days if you really do replace every last hose and pipe that has questionable integrity.

But who in there right mind would use genuine ? Good silicone hoses are cheaper and last a lot longer than the factory rubbish.

joshuaho96 Veteran

joshuaho96

Posted
Posted
2 hours ago, BK said:

But who in there right mind would use genuine ? Good silicone hoses are cheaper and last a lot longer than the factory rubbish.

Who in their right mind would buy journal bearing turbos just because they had HKS logos on them?

  • Like 1
  • Haha 1
Dose Pipe Sutututu Grand Master

Dose Pipe Sutututu

Posted
Posted
29 minutes ago, joshuaho96 said:

Who in their right mind would buy journal bearing turbos just because they had HKS logos on them?

Muricannnnnnsssssssss

bUt iTs hKs gOdZhiLllAAhh door stoppers that somehow look very similar to eBay turbos.

reallyspeedly Contributor

reallyspeedly

Posted
  • Author
Posted
21 hours ago, Ben C34 said:

You want fuel pressure sensor on that list.

Oil cooler?

Head refresh?

Replace every coolant hose.

 

 

 

 

I have a oil cooler, could install that one.

Fuel pressure sensor, good one. Forgot aobut that!

Head refresh? The engine block/head has been in for service. So the head should be fine!

reallyspeedly Contributor

reallyspeedly

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
15 hours ago, BK said:

Want my R33 GTR intercooler turbo to plenum hoses / piping ? It's like brand new but I'm still going to throw it in the bin 😊

Im located in europe, guess you are located a bit far away :(

Thanks!!

Edited by reallyspeedly
reallyspeedly Contributor

reallyspeedly

Posted
  • Author
Posted
20 hours ago, joshuaho96 said:

The coolant hose/vacuum hose line item is easily north of 500 USD these days if you really do replace every last hose and pipe that has questionable integrity.

Well, idk if that matters after all these parts i had to buy to get that car running. Would probably be better to sell -5s ( with a bit loss ) and go smaller turbos and less power hihi

joshuaho96 Veteran

joshuaho96

Posted
Posted
4 hours ago, reallyspeedly said:

Well, idk if that matters after all these parts i had to buy to get that car running. Would probably be better to sell -5s ( with a bit loss ) and go smaller turbos and less power hihi

Depends on how you want to do it, you could either keep a running tally of the things you need to replace as you dig through it or just replace everything wholesale. I ended up doing the latter when I pulled apart my intake manifold and oil cooler/oil filter housing down to the hose clamps which were all replaced with factory constant tension spring clamps. I spent probably 100 USD alone on those stupid spring clamps.

4 hours ago, reallyspeedly said:

The skyline is located a few hours away from me.
Is there any fitting for the fuel pressure sensor on the fuel rail? Or do i have to make another solution for that?

There is no factory provision for a fuel pressure sensor, you could put one after the fuel filter but before the rail though. That is a common spot for flex fuel sensors. I'm pretty sure that's the point that you're supposed to use when following factory service manual procedures for testing fuel pressure anyways.

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, joshuaho96 said:

That is a common spot for flex fuel sensors.

Yeah nah. Flex fuel sensor should be put in the low pressure return line. No need to punish it with several bar of static P.

P sensor in the rail feed line is sensible. But the obvious answer here is to buy an adapter to put an aftermarket pressure reg on the tail of the fuel rail and use the gauge port on the reg to mount teh P sensor.

joshuaho96 Veteran

joshuaho96

Posted
Posted
5 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

Yeah nah. Flex fuel sensor should be put in the low pressure return line. No need to punish it with several bar of static P.

P sensor in the rail feed line is sensible. But the obvious answer here is to buy an adapter to put an aftermarket pressure reg on the tail of the fuel rail and use the gauge port on the reg to mount teh P sensor.

Either way that strut tower is an easy place to put it, both feed and return run under the plenum. 

reallyspeedly Contributor

reallyspeedly

Posted
  • Author
Posted
17 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

Yeah nah. Flex fuel sensor should be put in the low pressure return line. No need to punish it with several bar of static P.

P sensor in the rail feed line is sensible. But the obvious answer here is to buy an adapter to put an aftermarket pressure reg on the tail of the fuel rail and use the gauge port on the reg to mount teh P sensor.

 

17 hours ago, joshuaho96 said:

Either way that strut tower is an easy place to put it, both feed and return run under the plenum. 

Hmm okey.  But what's your reason to use pressure sensor? I've only used a pressure gauge on the line/with aftermarket regulator on my other cars before. Are your reason to use a sensor to be able to connect it to the ecu, or to be able to have a gauge in the flightdeck/cockpit?

I guess i could get an "T" adapter with a 1/8" fitting for pressure sensor placement. And connect the fuel hose on the other two ends and place it between fuel filter and rail?


If i go for a regulator instead, i could just remove the "oem" regulator and put the new regulator on the strut tower on the feed line between filter and rail. I guess i could just use the gauge on that regulator? Wouldnt need the sensor for pressure reading then?

joshuaho96 Veteran

joshuaho96

Posted
Posted
4 hours ago, reallyspeedly said:

 

Hmm okey.  But what's your reason to use pressure sensor? I've only used a pressure gauge on the line/with aftermarket regulator on my other cars before. Are your reason to use a sensor to be able to connect it to the ecu, or to be able to have a gauge in the flightdeck/cockpit?

I guess i could get an "T" adapter with a 1/8" fitting for pressure sensor placement. And connect the fuel hose on the other two ends and place it between fuel filter and rail?


If i go for a regulator instead, i could just remove the "oem" regulator and put the new regulator on the strut tower on the feed line between filter and rail. I guess i could just use the gauge on that regulator? Wouldnt need the sensor for pressure reading then?

I would run a fuel pressure sensor if I’m already doing the work to set up a flex fuel sensor because it provides a clearer signal of fuel pump failure.

  • Like 1
Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted
On 1/25/2023 at 7:29 AM, joshuaho96 said:

I would run a fuel pressure sensor if I’m already doing the work to set up a flex fuel sensor because it provides a clearer signal of fuel pump failure.

And more importantly, you wire it to the ecu and use it for protection and logging.

It's 2023. Mechanical fuel pressure gauges are basically obsolete.

  • Like 4
joshuaho96 Veteran

joshuaho96

Posted
Posted
17 minutes ago, Ben C34 said:

And more importantly, you wire it to the ecu and use it for protection and logging.

It's 2023. Mechanical fuel pressure gauges are basically obsolete.

Right, that was what I was trying to say but didn't quite make explicit. RBs are expensive to blow up for dumb reasons.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      Maf is a question mark but TPS  I have set at 0.47, the fact that I’m getting proper voltage range out of it with the key on leads me to believe it’s functioning properly. I’m getting proper voltages on basically everything. I still need to look up voltage ranges for z32 maf and test that 
    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      Honestly no not at all, but it’s a very basic tune, it’s stock injectors q45 tps and z32 maf. Other than that it’s a completely stock base map. The file is from nistune and from my understanding if it was tune related I would be able to unplug maf and tps and it would still start even if it was a really shitty start. I have tried starting it with coolant temp, maf, and tps unplugged none of those 3 togethor or individually changes anything 
    • Matt Z
      SAU NSW - Bathurst Run 2025

      By Matt Z · Posted

      🏆 Skyline Supremacy Meets Mount Panorama Magic 🏆 Join SAU NSW as we take the long way to Bathurst, the home of GTR greatness. Saturday 30th August 2025 7:00AM Meeting Hanna Park North Richmond 7:30AM Departure Cruise Via Bells of Line Road 9:00AM Arrival to Stop 1: Golden Poplars Meadow Flat 9:45AM Arrival to Final Destination: Mount Panorama Motor Racing Circuit Meet Location: Hanna Park North Richmond Stop 1: Golden Poplars Meadow Flat Final Destination: Mount Panorama Motor Racing Circuit   *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
    • soviet_merlin
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      What does it look like with highway driving? And yes, I had a similar thought as Duncan. It looks quite similar in my Stagea and I have made myself accept it as normal. Might have to look into it some day   Highway gets as low as 10l/100km on my end so I'm not as worried about it being a mechanical issue. More likely just the tune on the haltech.
    • OST Micah
      RH9 R32 GTR Build Thread

      By OST Micah · Posted

      While I was waiting for the new parts to come in for the charge pipe and radiator I decided to do some turbo modification. The drive pressure (exhaust backpressure) was a lot higher that I thought it should be. For 32lbs of boost drive was 55lbs. The turbine housing is a 1.10AR and my turbo builder has suggested to go to a 1.25AR. To test if a larger AR would do anything to reduce drive pressure AND not spend any money I decided to hog out the divider in my current housing. I removed it from the inlet and the whole way through the housing.  After reassembly and testing it doesn't look like this modification did anything for reducing drive pressure or requiring more fuel (making more power). Oh well, it was worth a shot. We'll get some data at the track if it makes it past the 60ft. I also machined a $7 shift knob off Amazon to fit my Stillway shifter since I didn't like the Stillway shift knob. Next on the list was the radiator replacement and fabrication of a new intercooler tube that had no silicon coupler. No pictures of this - I was short on time each night after work to get this done and didn't stop to take pictures.  Next was to get the clutch disks out and replaced. Previously when installing the dogbox I had ordered a set of the same sintered iron disks I had been running because I switched to the 26-spline input shaft. I thought it was odd that they didn't have any markings or brand name on them like all my old disks had but installed them anyway. At the track I could not get the clutch to lock up using my normal strategies. After two track nights I reached out to the clutch manufacturer and ask their thoughts. They said they had to switch the material out because they were having trouble getting the original material and that this new material would not take to being slipped very well.  So out with the first set of 26-spline disks and in with the correct material 26-spline disks. While I had the trans out I added an inspection/service hole. I've wanted one of these for a while. Now I can have a look at things and change the front cover shimming when needed (clutch wear). I hustled and got the clutch change done in a few hours on a Saturday. Hopped in the car and drove home. On the way home I did a 1-3 pull. When shifting from 2nd to 3rd the core plug in the back of the cylinder head popped out and dumped all the coolant. Thankfully I was only 30 seconds from home and coasted it there. Datalog showed nothing unusual and 2.5psi of coolant pressure. That plug has been in there since 1992 but I guess it worked its way out. Pulled the trans AGAIN and replaced the plug, JB welded it in, and made a brace. Also deleted the head drain I had added in during the bearing issue fiasco.  I am currently changing my boost control plumbing to make it cleaner. After that is done I'll make another attempt at getting past the 60.
×
×
  • Create New...