Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

3 hours ago, Duncan said:

Good of them to confirm. 

I've never had to do it so don't know the procedure, but you can also measure the height to ensure you have the right carrier and bearing size

That was my next step. I asked if they had a particular height I needed to have In order to instal it. The one I have is 18 mm and the one that was fitted on the car before is 15mm. I had to replace the carrier group after I broke the old one (pressed on the bearing and snapped on the ear where the fork sits -oops). 

Edited by Jjtxaz24
Measured TOB Carrier
  • 2 weeks later...

I emailed the company and waiting for a response, figured I'd see if you guys got any idea. 

Which direction does the clutch disk go? It's not labeled nor does it indicate a specific way. 

A:20230412_122128.thumb.jpg.626ff4b940817bebf44eecd9523f289c.jpg

B:20230412_122109.thumb.jpg.43646a8b218e0f3702d617473e32f27a.jpg

I had it in the car as "A". 

Here's 2 other pics of them side by side.

20230412_125754.thumb.jpg.b1ad02ba780e9228118c33f1cac69fb8.jpg

20230412_125807.thumb.jpg.6d5a935e71198c49f35e52c73c09a2f0.jpg

As always, I appreciate your help. 

  • 1 month later...

Alright well I had some free time and it's all buttoned up. Still not working. 

Mantic warrantied out the clutch and I threw that in there. Dropped it on the ground and didn't go anywhere.

I made sure to bleed it right. Pulled up the FSM and found I need to bleed the master, junction box and slave. Done. 

Screenshot_20230528_214814_Drive.thumb.jpg.526ff0f058a91df410ea558ab842b8db.jpg

I guess I just need a whole different clutch set up. I don't know what to do at this point. 😕

This sounds like an incorrect release bearing length/travel or clutch pedal adjustment issue to me. If your transmission is still on the car, remove your slave cylinder and by hand pushing your clutch fork, how much play is there before the release bearing touches the flywheel?

If your transmission is off, better yet; ask your clutch OEM for a clutch release bearing checking guide. I can supply you one from ACS that more than likely applies to any clutch if needed.

40 minutes ago, TurboTapin said:

This sounds like an incorrect release bearing length/travel or clutch pedal adjustment issue to me. If your transmission is still on the car, remove your slave cylinder and by hand pushing your clutch fork, how much play is there before the release bearing touches the flywheel?

If your transmission is off, better yet; ask your clutch OEM for a clutch release bearing checking guide. I can supply you one from ACS that more than likely applies to any clutch if needed.

I do think the release bearing is to tall (now that I installed it and ran into the same issue) for this clutch set up and that's why it's running into issues. I reached out to mantic and they didn't have any specifics to tell me as to what release bearing to use, all they said was its OEM compatible. Original that was in the car was 15mm I broke it and ordered a new one and that one was 18mm. That's what's in the car. Didn't work. 

I ended up just ordering a whole new kit that comes with everything. I looked at this when I first started to look for clutches and I should of just ordered it when I saw it. I would have saved myself the time and money from the get-go. 

Screenshot_20230529_203050_Brave.thumb.jpg.29c2109204b0220987f9244604a2d591.jpg

Silver lining to this is I have the removal and install of this heavy ass transmission and that top starter bolt down so I can get it done in an evening instead of over a few days on the weekend. Lol. 

  • Like 2

Well there's a saying round here that goes "third times the charm." Removed and installed the trans on Friday (had a day off and kids were at day care) in about 7 hrs with some breaks for lunch and sanity checks. 

Bled the clutch today and topped off the tranafer case (still gotta figure out how to get the 4WD light off on the dash - I vacuum Bled the actuator, but it's still on) but she drives perfectly. Clutch feels good and it's nice to have her out of the garage in time for some summer cruising... 

Maintenance never ends and still got little things to do but for now it's good. 

Learned some tips to get that starter bolt on/off and the top bell housing bolts. 

Thank you all for all your help!!

20230604_182725.thumb.jpg.e29480506e67c58d5bbf5a21bcb16924.jpg

  • Like 2

Great to hear that is back together and being enjoyed.

So is the difference that you removed the original clutch kit and installed a new one? Looks like the new kit had a different height with the flywheel/pressure plate stack and came with a different throw out bearing?

21 hours ago, Duncan said:

Great to hear that is back together and being enjoyed.

So is the difference that you removed the original clutch kit and installed a new one? Looks like the new kit had a different height with the flywheel/pressure plate stack and came with a different throw out bearing?

I'm excited to be driving it again and my boys are too. 

 

Yeah, I removed the mantic and used the xclutch twin. 

I honestly think the throw out bearing sleeve being 18mm is what was causing the problem. The original one I snapped is 15mm, when I ordered the new one that was "OEM" I measured it and it came to 18mm. I didn't measure the mantic kit to the xclutch. 

The one that came with the new clutch kit is 15mm. I reused my OE fork, and pivotball (just a new one) everything else is what was in the kit. 

  • Like 1
  • 1 year later...

I figure a year isn't that long these days for a thread bump. How do I undo ridiculously tight rear driveshaft bolts? I bought a 6 point box end wrench and a dedicated wrench extender, I've tried heat + penetrating oil. What's the next step if all of that fails? Do I use a dremel to try and cut open the nut?

On 8/15/2024 at 1:08 AM, GTSBoy said:

Yuh. Time for the hydraulic nut splitter. Or his poor Mexican cousin, el Grindo.

Turns out the solution was penetrating oil + time, but also a 6 point box end wrench with a 15 inch extension. I managed to also get my impact to fit without a u-joint which delivered enough torque to do the trick, but it required a regular chrome socket which is super dangerous and probably not recommended. U-joint took up way too more torque seemingly even at fairly straight angles.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Totally equivalent. Stock often goes from the comp cover because that's where the actuator is also installed and the factory needs 2" of hose to make the connection - and it comes as a pre-assembled unit. They totally have a boost reference from somewhere between the turbo and the throttle(s). Oh, jeez. Just do it in M12 then. We don't actually care that much. I would expect any such AN converter fitting to rely on an o-ring or some other seal onto a flat surface under the flange of the hex**, because bolt threads are no intended to provide a pressure seal. unlike..... pipe threads. **which also requires a suitably flat and smooth surface on the turbo's boss to provide the seal.
    • I also used NP   That’s were it’s seems to be the best place to fit it? All schematic shows also that it’s should be referenced from the turbo housing. But idk, I do see high hp cars without any connection or anything to their turbos, so I really don’t know how they connect their things
    • I do have loctite 243 and 246 and a few more models. I could drill it now in place and make new threads for m12 and order an4 - m12 coupling and fit that to the turbo. Run a braided hose to the EBC which I could get a an4 to 1/8npt 
    • So M12 and sealant should be fine?    NPT ” because that’s what I had and what I could get atm. 
    • Wouldn’t touch par if they gave it to me. You need to ask how much power you’re looking to make and then add about 50% to it because that’s what you’ll end up making  The factory box says no more at about 350kw or so, the upgraded synchro boxes won’t handle much over 500kw for long and at that point you’re looking at an auto or dog engagement manual,  once you’ve gone dog engagement you may as well go sequential, they cost a little bit more but it’s worth it  also while you’re at it you should upgrade the transfer case with 10 friction plates 
×
×
  • Create New...