Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I kinda have an idea, and there is some bits and pieces on the forums about it.

Looking to do the "Mines R34" diff gearing in the Getrag 6 speed. I want to retain the A-LSD in the Vspec more for the "PuRiTy" aspect of having a Vspec.

Is it a matter of more or less just using the pinion and gears into the existing rear Diff housing?

So: from an R33 or 32 GTR

Front diff pinion/gears

Rear diff pinion/gears

Rear axles/ shafts as the lenghts are different?

Is that basically it?

 

28 minutes ago, djvoodoo said:

Rear axles/ shafts as the lenghts are different?

If you're just changing the CW&P, then nothing else in the diff changes and you don't need to consider the axles (neither the stubs or driveshafts).

I presume that it is nothing more than CW&P required at each end of the car, seeing as it's been done any number of times by others. If it was a circus, you'd hear about it being a circus.

  • 1 year later...
1 hour ago, Jumbotron said:

Hi did you end up doing the 4.11 gears? Is it only the front and rear CW&P that needs to be changed?

I now have 4.11's - But, not a straight fit for the 34 Vspec. The 33/32 CW&P does not mesh inside the 34 A-LSD diff housing (different wheel to pinion thickness)

In order to retain the A-LSD, i bought a 33 Vspec rear diff.

Front is the same across 32/33/34.

 

  • Thanks 1
9 hours ago, djvoodoo said:

I now have 4.11's - But, not a straight fit for the 34 Vspec. The 33/32 CW&P does not mesh inside the 34 A-LSD diff housing (different wheel to pinion thickness)

In order to retain the A-LSD, i bought a 33 Vspec rear diff.

Front is the same across 32/33/34.

 

Thanks for confirming glad it worked out in the end. For the r33 vspec rear diff is it a direct swap, any modifications or r33 driveshafts needed? 

Also do you mind sharing where you sourced parts from? Having trouble finding front CWP or front diff from r32/33

5 hours ago, Jumbotron said:

Thanks for confirming glad it worked out in the end. For the r33 vspec rear diff is it a direct swap, any modifications or r33 driveshafts needed? 

Also do you mind sharing where you sourced parts from? Having trouble finding front CWP or front diff from r32/33

33Vspec diff direct swap. No other modifications needed to the 34 rear end.

Initially, was hard to source the 33 vspec diff at a reasonable price. I found 1 at JustJap.

Otherwise Yahoo auctions, or go through an importer like ImportMonster etc

  • Thanks 1
12 hours ago, Jumbotron said:

Also do you mind sharing where you sourced parts from? Having trouble finding front CWP or front diff from r32/33

If you just want a CWP check out neat gearbox’s in Adelaide, they make replacement CWP for GTR in a number of ratios. Not OEM and not cheap either! 
they do front and rear and they do have a good reputation, I sourced a new rear CWP and sent it to them with my front and had them shot peened, looked good when I got them back. 

  • Thanks 1
37 minutes ago, Old man 32 GTR said:

If you just want a CWP check out neat gearbox’s in Adelaide, they make replacement CWP for GTR in a number of ratios. Not OEM and not cheap either! 
they do front and rear and they do have a good reputation, I sourced a new rear CWP and sent it to them with my front and had them shot peened, looked good when I got them back. 

Yea their stuff looks very nice but man 4k for front and rear CWP 😭

2 hours ago, Old man 32 GTR said:

If you just want a CWP check out neat gearbox’s in Adelaide, they make replacement CWP for GTR in a number of ratios. Not OEM and not cheap either! 
they do front and rear and they do have a good reputation, I sourced a new rear CWP and sent it to them with my front and had them shot peened, looked good when I got them back. 

Neat don't yet make the CWP for the 34 vspec A-LSD. I know this because i was talking to them about it last year. They were looking to source a Vspec diff to get the measurements

  • 4 weeks later...
On 4/9/2024 at 1:43 AM, djvoodoo said:

I now have 4.11's - But, not a straight fit for the 34 Vspec. The 33/32 CW&P does not mesh inside the 34 A-LSD diff housing (different wheel to pinion thickness)

In order to retain the A-LSD, i bought a 33 Vspec rear diff.

Front is the same across 32/33/34.

 

Hey just wondering how does the car drive now with the 4.11 gears now, was there any problems driving with the R33 A-lsd? Also did you upgrade the front diff when you changed to 4.11 gears? 

21 hours ago, Heyyob22 said:

Hey just wondering how does the car drive now with the 4.11 gears now, was there any problems driving with the R33 A-lsd? Also did you upgrade the front diff when you changed to 4.11 gears? 

It's good, but not as good as some people make it out to be on social media. Yes, you can feel the torque come in earlier, yes, it does make the car feel more lively below 4000rpm, and yes, it does feel more responsive, but it's not this 'unicorn' mod. 

Everyday driving? Below 100km/h on Australian roads, it's worth it. At 110km in 6th gear mine will sit on about 2860rpm.

Doing a Motorkhana or a small circuit? Yes, it's worth it.

Doing Texas style speed runs? Prob not.

Do you use the gears more? Yes and No. Doing 60/70km on most roads, I'm using the gears just like any other Getrag. 80km and above, you use 5th and 6th more often.

Absolutely no issues driving with the 33 A-LSD.

Didn't change the front diff, only changed the C&P wheel. Some people say to upgrade to a Quaife etc, but i've had no issue with torque steer or having it wander all over the road.

The one thing that no-one really addresses is the issue of the Speedo being out. It's either use a speedo corrector, find a 33 gearbox speed sensor, or use an aftermarket display with GPS speedo.

  • Like 2
15 hours ago, djvoodoo said:

It's good, but not as good as some people make it out to be on social media. Yes, you can feel the torque come in earlier, yes, it does make the car feel more lively below 4000rpm, and yes, it does feel more responsive, but it's not this 'unicorn' mod. 

Everyday driving? Below 100km/h on Australian roads, it's worth it. At 110km in 6th gear mine will sit on about 2860rpm.

Doing a Motorkhana or a small circuit? Yes, it's worth it.

Doing Texas style speed runs? Prob not.

Do you use the gears more? Yes and No. Doing 60/70km on most roads, I'm using the gears just like any other Getrag. 80km and above, you use 5th and 6th more often.

Absolutely no issues driving with the 33 A-LSD.

Didn't change the front diff, only changed the C&P wheel. Some people say to upgrade to a Quaife etc, but i've had no issue with torque steer or having it wander all over the road.

The one thing that no-one really addresses is the issue of the Speedo being out. It's either use a speedo corrector, find a 33 gearbox speed sensor, or use an aftermarket display with GPS speedo.

Thank you for the info! 
 

Did you get a 33 gearbox speed sensor to have your speedometer to work?

Does the Speedo work but not accurate? 

3 hours ago, Heyyob22 said:

Thank you for the info! 
 

Did you get a 33 gearbox speed sensor to have your speedometer to work?

Does the Speedo work but not accurate? 

Speedo is out by about 12-15% I.E - If doing a road speed of 100km, the speedo is showing about 115km.

The 33 GTR speed sensor is almost impossible to come by. I was lucky enough that someone on FB marketplace was selling an entire gearbox, and i just politely asked to buy the speed sensor off him. I have not installed it yet though..

I thought about the speedo correctors, but heard some not so great things about the Jaycar unit.

Lucky for me, i use a Powertune digital dash in the 34 MFD cluster. I have the GPS unit, but the dash also has a speed offset function in which you can choose the offset percentage. So i just bang in an offset of 15% and the digital display shows the correct speed on the MFD.

47 minutes ago, djvoodoo said:

I thought about the speedo correctors, but heard some not so great things about the Jaycar unit.

It's not ideal, by any means, but I think many of the horror stories are because of people not understanding what it is, what it does, what their VSS that they need to modify looks like and whether the Jaycar unit is applicable.

In principle, it is relatively easy to build a device to take in an AC variable (peak) voltage variable frequency signal (which is what you get from most Nissan speed senders) and just spit out a constant (peak) voltage variable frequency AC signal at a different (modified) frequency.

  • Like 1
  • 11 months later...
On 5/5/2024 at 5:30 PM, djvoodoo said:

Speedo is out by about 12-15% I.E - If doing a road speed of 100km, the speedo is showing about 115km.

The 33 GTR speed sensor is almost impossible to come by. I was lucky enough that someone on FB marketplace was selling an entire gearbox, and i just politely asked to buy the speed sensor off him. I have not installed it yet though..

I thought about the speedo correctors, but heard some not so great things about the Jaycar unit.

Lucky for me, i use a Powertune digital dash in the 34 MFD cluster. I have the GPS unit, but the dash also has a speed offset function in which you can choose the offset percentage. So i just bang in an offset of 15% and the digital display shows the correct speed on the MFD.

Hey was wondering if you ended up installing the R33 GTR speed sensor - I found one too and wanted to confirm it's a direct swap into the R34 6 speed?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...