Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Looking at upgrading my brakes whilst my engine is being built 

Is it really worth spending the $$ for a big brake kit on my 34?

or would a good set of DBA Slotted rotors (t3 4000) and pads suffice (dixcel type z or project mu F236 HC+)

Any other recommendations for rotors?

I mean going to 355 will look nice but is it worth the $$?

For reference will be buying work sp13 18s

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/484651-r34-gtt-brake-upgrade/
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, YD34GTT said:

Looking at upgrading my brakes whilst my engine is being built 

Is it really worth spending the $$ for a big brake kit on my 34?

or would a good set of DBA Slotted rotors (t3 4000) and pads suffice (dixcel type z or project mu F236 HC+)

Any other recommendations for rotors?

I mean going to 355 will look nice but is it worth the $$?

For reference will be buying work sp13 18s

 

DBA 4000 is fine, as are PMu HC+. I wouldn't bother with a BBK unless you're taking it to the track. That's really where these cars need the BBK, they're heavy and don't have enough thermal capacity from the factory unlike a modern sporty car.

17 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

For street there is certainly no need for anything larger than the 310s on the R34. A few years ago you could preach a GTR upgrade to 324, when the calipers could be bought for reasonable coin. But not any more.

For a 34 which will be built for 500kw and maybe do a track day once a year BBK are over kill you would say? 

 

Might even consider going project MU rotors over DBA if anyone knows if they're better than DBA

29 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

For street there is certainly no need for anything larger than the 310s on the R34. A few years ago you could preach a GTR upgrade to 324, when the calipers could be bought for reasonable coin. But not any more.

Do the dba t3 5000 324 directly bolt on to the gtt ?

1 hour ago, YD34GTT said:

For a 34 which will be built for 500kw and maybe do a track day once a year BBK are over kill you would say? 

 

Might even consider going project MU rotors over DBA if anyone knows if they're better than DBA

It really depends on how you plan to use the car on track. Do you want to do 20 minutes sessions on R comp tyres on the track flat out the entire time? This will need plenty of cooling upgrades and the BBK will be 100% needed for this scenario. 

Are you happy to do 2 or 3 laps flat out then let the car cool down before going flat out again? This scenario is much easier to achieve and could be handled on upgraded rotors/pads no problem.

  • Thanks 1
4 hours ago, YD34GTT said:

Do the dba t3 5000 324 directly bolt on to the gtt ?

Any of the R chassis rotors will go on any of the other cars. The R34s used 14mm caliper bolts, so you have to make sure that your Vspec calipers suit that (ie not earlier ones), or be prepared to make suitable inserts for them.

But this would be senseless, because GTR Brembos cost nearly as much a proper BBK upgrade these days.

  • Thanks 1
8 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

Any of the R chassis rotors will go on any of the other cars. The R34s used 14mm caliper bolts, so you have to make sure that your Vspec calipers suit that (ie not earlier ones), or be prepared to make suitable inserts for them.

But this would be senseless, because GTR Brembos cost nearly as much a proper BBK upgrade these days.

Yeah i did some digging and figured so

Might just go upgraded rotors and pads for now and if I increase track work I'll look into going either BBK or go down the road of using alpha omega adaptors and go evo brakes 

Thanks for the info

For reference, my race car (only has 300ish kw) does 20 min sessions, sprint races, enduro races 2hrs+, tarmac rallies up and down long hill runs etc etc on standard size GTR rotors (324mm). It does have slightly larger calipers and pads (porsche 4 spot) than factory but really it comes down to disc and pad selection.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's restrictor pills in the stock boost control hoses. That's how they set the amount that was bled off and hence the "high" boost setting. The usual mod in the day was to remove it and send the "high" boost setting up to about 14 psi.
    • Thanks Duncan, that's the best info I've read. Furthermore after learning about the PCM programming side controlling the factory boost solenoid, the purpose of the solenoid is to "bleed" boost when pin 25 is earthed, thus allowing spring pressure in the wastegate actuator to overcome diaphragm boost pressure, thus closing or reducing the position of the wastegate flap creating more boost as the turbo is able to spin faster. It's pretty cool to see a designated Pill to do exactly this, would have liked to have seen it with a tiny filter over the end for those moments in vacuum.  The constant bleed pill has now been removed completely from the system and solenoid boost control has been restored once again.   Case closed 😂
    • The wideband reading is meaningless if it's not running. Why are you using shitty old sidefeeds on any engine, let alone a Neo? What manifold and fuel rail are you using to achieve that? Beyond that, can't help you with AEM stuff as I've never been their ECU/CAS combo.
    • Manual boost controllers (where a little of the boost was bled off) were quite common back in the day, because they were cheap and easy. Generally they had a manual adjustment screw rather than being fixed like yours. Down side is they always bleed boost, not just when you want them to so an electronic boost controller that uses a solenoid will have less lag.
    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
×
×
  • Create New...