Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, I spent days researching spring rates for skylines (particularly GTT R34s) the general info was that 8/6kg setups were too stiff for the road and many said even too stiff for track...  

My car felt way too soft on the track and still too much body roll after doing a larger front swaybar.

I went from 8/5kg to 14/8kg and the car felt amazing and no where near too stiff on track.  The car was also lowered 20mm when the springs were changed.

Result was a 1.547 around Gardner Circuit at SMSP which is still slow.  If you watch my vids, the car is very slidy which is fun but slow and rear grip is the next step.

 

https://youtu.be/PjyTZ4dOq0M

 

Basic info:

Front Tyres 235 Zestine 07R

Rear Tyres Chinese 265s

220rwkw 12 psi

Locked Diff

Drift knuckles (ex drift car)

Shockworks coilovers

Whiteline 24mm F swaybar

Ext front LCAs, basic adj rear arms.

Stock brakes

Bucket Seat, Half Cage and still has climate control.

 

 

Edited by 25GTV
Trying to embed yt vid.
  • Like 1

went from 8/6 to MCA Red 13/10 (IIRC) and dropped a similar amount of time around barbagallo 

stops the weight transferring diagonally across and understeering  

set the ride height to the correct spec from mca website also makes a world of difference, it is a little higher than you would first suspect 

 

  • Like 3
18 minutes ago, 25GTV said:

168km/h on the gps into Turn 1.  Still not completely confident turning it in and I roll off the throttle after the finish line then coast turn 1.

wow that's pretty good!

I'm still a massive chicken shit and the fastest I've been was about 140km/h

  • Like 1
31 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

wow that's pretty good!

I'm still a massive chicken shit and the fastest I've been was about 140km/h

It's a bit scary...  Especially with a locked diff and zero aero.

  • Like 2

Hi mate, glad you are enjoying your time at the track and looking to get your times down.

In my experience you will have more fun and way more lap time success changing things in the following order:

1. check wheel alignment

2. r spec tyres on spare set of rims

3. sway bars (stiffer springs are not the best way to reduce roll as they act in all compression conditions not just roll)

4. shocks and springs (lighter than you have)

5. mechanical diff

6. better pads and discs

7. replace sure all bushes, ball joints, rod ends etc 

8. more power

At the moment it is pretty clear from the video that it understeers mid corner (need more front end grip) and oversteers hugely under power on exit (needs more rear grip). Good tyres will make 200% difference to both of those and you won't really notice the effect of any change until you start with some grip.

Yes (comparably) stiff springs can be OK for track only use, as long as you stay off the ripple strips etc because they compromise the amount of time your tyres spend on the ground over bumps.

  • Like 3

You're probably right Duncan, thanks for the info.  Unfortunately the car budget has very little funds available, so...  

I have in the garage a spare s15 Helcial diff that I believe I can swap the centre and run s15 shafts.

Also, I can add some camber and toe in the rear for free.

The front tyres will have to wait for additional funds...

..... also get the rear swaybar. You would be stunned how much difference it makes with regards to turn in. I'm really surprised you didn't have one already from drift duties!

Anti roll bars are very hot topic, I'm personally not a fan of the super stiff setup. From my personal experience, I prefer upping the spring rate (I'm planning to myself, especially for SMSP).

Since Matt's car already understeers, I would not be adding a front ARB, however introducing a rear should aid in it clocking better, however with a slight compromise as the car would snap oversteer much easier.

7 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Since Matt's car already understeers, I would not be adding a front ARB

He has massive front spring rate AND a 24mm bar. It has a lot of roll stiffness in the front. It's really no wonder it wants to mid-corner understeer.

I suspect fixing the rear will come down more to getting rid of the welded diff and looking to the wheel alignment, and possibly bump steer geometry.

Plus tyres. The reason the V8 Supercars can get away with spooled diffs is the massively sticky slicks. Just watch how slidey they get on corner exit when the tyres go off.

1 minute ago, GTSBoy said:

He has massive front spring rate AND a 24mm bar

Totally missed that part!

I would set it on the softest setting to aid front end grip, waits for everyone to flame me for saying that LOL

1 minute ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

I would set it on the softest setting to aid front end grip, waits for everyone to flame me for saying that LOL

If keeping the big springs, I would drop to a 22mm, or something. Maybe even a stocker.

Wow, your mid corner grip is terrible.

Put some toe on the back, get some cheap track tyres like AR1's and ditch the locker. If the car is super low you might want to consider changing the sub frame bushes to solids or zero height units at the back and raising the rear, same ride height but your rear geo will be closer to standard giving you better camber and toe curves.

  • Like 1

I urge you not to make any further setup changes until you put some proper tyres on it. There is no point trying to improve on a flawed foundation, you will likely find it handles totally differently (strengths/weaknesses) with new tyres.

  • Like 3

The mid corner understeer is probably majority linked to the Drift Knuckle geomerty (extra lock knuckles).  In general they destroy everything whilst giving big lock.

I will say it is great fun to drive like this, predictable when the low grip limit is pushed.

  • Like 1

I mean, I didn't drive your car and I am no expert track driver myself, but watching the video makes me think that car handles like an absolute uncontrollable bucket of shit.

I know you've drifted it, but if my 34 sedan started behaving like that it would have ended up on it's roof about five times trying to go around a corner with my hamfisted driving. That exit onto the main straight should absolutely not be a mission like that, in any car ever. It's not only rear grip being the issue there. This is an alarming set of tyres at the very least as mentioned.

  • Like 1
  • Haha 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • I can ship Nismo floor mats to you: https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/nismo-floor-mats-for-skyline-r33-bcnr33-stagea-wgnc34?_pos=1&_sid=9278c1467&_ss=r  
    • Here's the link: https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/nissan-japan/stagea/wgnc34/6642/misc/G49?frame_no=WGNC34-137122 What you think about it? The same product i found on nengun: https://www.nengun.com/oem/parts/40567/MiPwn5qAMfCfmpxHNDnwn5q9MDAx8J-QiW9sZC1qcC0xMTAtRzQ5LS0wMDE/Floor+Carpet+%2F+Mat+2/0688339eba149c19 Bot i have spoken to 😅 ensured me, that mats are 100% original, oem product. I have my doubts. I also heard what you mentioned, that nengun often offers items that are actual not available... On the other hand mats i found on japanese yahoo or ebay are in poor condition and still quite expensive so i'd rather wait for some better offers. My location - Poland. We literaly don't have ANY market for used Stagea parts so need to search outside Europe.
    • You can’t see much on the other side as the lcd is there I don’t think it’s the same as the m33 beside it as the markings on top is not the same was hoping someone had a good quality photo or if they just happened to have the unit in hand, quickly take the cover off and take a photo to clearly show the marking on top to identify the diode   the unit is currently with an electronics repair shop so I can’t take another photo at the moment hopefully they are smart enough to know if it’s a zener diode or not
    • I'd be very surprised if you can buy new OEM mats. But if you can, I want some too!  Do you have links to the variations you found? Also, where are you located? I found that Nengun is happy to list items to purchase but when you do buy them you'll get an email that it's actually discontinued. As far as I know the variations in floor mats are different colour schemes as well as automatic and manual having a slightly different shape. The automatic ones fit into a manual car without issues, but I think you'd have trouble fitting the other way around. I have photos that show the shape difference if you care. FWIW I bought sets of used floor mats in decent condition at yahoo auctions.
    • Hi 🙋‍♂️. Just bought my Unicorn but the interior need some minor work so it would match my expectations ;). I noticed it is hard to get used oem floor mats in good condition so i started to dig if there's any chance to buy set of new ones. I found two websites - nengun and amayama and it looks like one can still buy factory new floor mats in Japan, but thers a small issue. Some mats (i assume genuine, oem ones) are marked as G4900 and these are "discontinued". The ones you can buy are marked as G4911 but i have no idea if these are also oem, made by other producer or some lower quality replacements that looks entirely different. Can anyone help? 😃  P.s. there is also some strange indication - 0V005, 0V015 and 0V505. Any idea what does it mean? Would appreciate any help with this 🙏
×
×
  • Create New...