Jump to content
SAU Community

3.9 seconds quicker at SMSP after large increase to Spring Rate - Vid in post.


25GTV
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, I spent days researching spring rates for skylines (particularly GTT R34s) the general info was that 8/6kg setups were too stiff for the road and many said even too stiff for track...  

My car felt way too soft on the track and still too much body roll after doing a larger front swaybar.

I went from 8/5kg to 14/8kg and the car felt amazing and no where near too stiff on track.  The car was also lowered 20mm when the springs were changed.

Result was a 1.547 around Gardner Circuit at SMSP which is still slow.  If you watch my vids, the car is very slidy which is fun but slow and rear grip is the next step.

 

https://youtu.be/PjyTZ4dOq0M

 

Basic info:

Front Tyres 235 Zestine 07R

Rear Tyres Chinese 265s

220rwkw 12 psi

Locked Diff

Drift knuckles (ex drift car)

Shockworks coilovers

Whiteline 24mm F swaybar

Ext front LCAs, basic adj rear arms.

Stock brakes

Bucket Seat, Half Cage and still has climate control.

 

 

Edited by 25GTV
Trying to embed yt vid.
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

went from 8/6 to MCA Red 13/10 (IIRC) and dropped a similar amount of time around barbagallo 

stops the weight transferring diagonally across and understeering  

set the ride height to the correct spec from mca website also makes a world of difference, it is a little higher than you would first suspect 

 

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

168km/h on the gps into Turn 1.  Still not completely confident turning it in and I roll off the throttle after the finish line then coast turn 1.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

18 minutes ago, 25GTV said:

168km/h on the gps into Turn 1.  Still not completely confident turning it in and I roll off the throttle after the finish line then coast turn 1.

wow that's pretty good!

I'm still a massive chicken shit and the fastest I've been was about 140km/h

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

31 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

wow that's pretty good!

I'm still a massive chicken shit and the fastest I've been was about 140km/h

It's a bit scary...  Especially with a locked diff and zero aero.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi mate, glad you are enjoying your time at the track and looking to get your times down.

In my experience you will have more fun and way more lap time success changing things in the following order:

1. check wheel alignment

2. r spec tyres on spare set of rims

3. sway bars (stiffer springs are not the best way to reduce roll as they act in all compression conditions not just roll)

4. shocks and springs (lighter than you have)

5. mechanical diff

6. better pads and discs

7. replace sure all bushes, ball joints, rod ends etc 

8. more power

At the moment it is pretty clear from the video that it understeers mid corner (need more front end grip) and oversteers hugely under power on exit (needs more rear grip). Good tyres will make 200% difference to both of those and you won't really notice the effect of any change until you start with some grip.

Yes (comparably) stiff springs can be OK for track only use, as long as you stay off the ripple strips etc because they compromise the amount of time your tyres spend on the ground over bumps.

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

You're probably right Duncan, thanks for the info.  Unfortunately the car budget has very little funds available, so...  

I have in the garage a spare s15 Helcial diff that I believe I can swap the centre and run s15 shafts.

Also, I can add some camber and toe in the rear for free.

The front tyres will have to wait for additional funds...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Anti roll bars are very hot topic, I'm personally not a fan of the super stiff setup. From my personal experience, I prefer upping the spring rate (I'm planning to myself, especially for SMSP).

Since Matt's car already understeers, I would not be adding a front ARB, however introducing a rear should aid in it clocking better, however with a slight compromise as the car would snap oversteer much easier.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Since Matt's car already understeers, I would not be adding a front ARB

He has massive front spring rate AND a 24mm bar. It has a lot of roll stiffness in the front. It's really no wonder it wants to mid-corner understeer.

I suspect fixing the rear will come down more to getting rid of the welded diff and looking to the wheel alignment, and possibly bump steer geometry.

Plus tyres. The reason the V8 Supercars can get away with spooled diffs is the massively sticky slicks. Just watch how slidey they get on corner exit when the tyres go off.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

I would set it on the softest setting to aid front end grip, waits for everyone to flame me for saying that LOL

If keeping the big springs, I would drop to a 22mm, or something. Maybe even a stocker.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wow, your mid corner grip is terrible.

Put some toe on the back, get some cheap track tyres like AR1's and ditch the locker. If the car is super low you might want to consider changing the sub frame bushes to solids or zero height units at the back and raising the rear, same ride height but your rear geo will be closer to standard giving you better camber and toe curves.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I urge you not to make any further setup changes until you put some proper tyres on it. There is no point trying to improve on a flawed foundation, you will likely find it handles totally differently (strengths/weaknesses) with new tyres.

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The mid corner understeer is probably majority linked to the Drift Knuckle geomerty (extra lock knuckles).  In general they destroy everything whilst giving big lock.

I will say it is great fun to drive like this, predictable when the low grip limit is pushed.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I mean, I didn't drive your car and I am no expert track driver myself, but watching the video makes me think that car handles like an absolute uncontrollable bucket of shit.

I know you've drifted it, but if my 34 sedan started behaving like that it would have ended up on it's roof about five times trying to go around a corner with my hamfisted driving. That exit onto the main straight should absolutely not be a mission like that, in any car ever. It's not only rear grip being the issue there. This is an alarming set of tyres at the very least as mentioned.

  • Like 1
  • Haha 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Latest Posts

    • God damn. In 2 or 3 years I might not need 4 doors anymore! What a concept!
    • This will be awesome in 2 or 3 years. https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/2016-bmw-4-series-440i-f36-auto/OAG-AD-23217470/?Cr=0&gts=OAG-AD-23217470&gtsSaleId=OAG-AD-23217470&gtsViewType=showcase&rankingType=showcase  
    • There's a lot of high mileage 335's out there with minor mods who cope with a few track days a month and then behave nicely as a daily. I don't want to keep throwing money at this car, I'm not in it for much yet  and once I get the LSD there's really nothing else I need to do besides keep up to date with maintenance. Everything that breaks easily has been handled (minus HP Fuel Pump) which should give me a lot of trouble free motoring in future. It's definitely inside BMWs' "horror period" I get that, but I do think you're being a little overly harsh. I'd like to hold on to this for only another few years at least and then consider a step up into an F80/1 M3/4 when I can afford a good'n. I also like B58's and would move into a M235i or similar when they're a bit cheaper.
    • I mean nah, lets be honest it's significantly worse. BMW's are absolutely not the same age, replacements are not the same level of robustness. Most would say an E36 is more solid than an E90X and I would still say an E36 is a little more rickety than your equivalent R chassis over time. BMW pretty much have a huge void between E36 and anything with a B58/ZF onward. I kinda get the appeal if they work, but they just don't. I get that the vibe is "do a track day in executive comfort" but in all seriousness, a VE Commodore is as comfortable and certainly more solid* around a track, and they are hardly up there in the high list of "Excellent track cars". See also: Barra Turbo with coilovers or _something_. I mean a great deal of these cars/choices are always irrational, but I at least try to stay rational, or at least have some rational argument why I did X and not Y :D. My pet peeve is irrational badge snobbery. There is no reason to buy a Luxury SUV when anything from Kia will do the job better, and cheaper. I know someone who has a twin turbo diesel X5 making 400kw or whatever and as soon as he opens his mouth I say nothing but "You are an idiot who has wasted your money" and tell him to buy a Tesla Model X/Y as it is superior to anything he will do with that car. (he does not like this, but he deserves it, just trust me..) But Prank seems like a nice guy. I want him to sell this 335i before sadness kicks in more and buy something far happier at the track, like an 86, or a Megane RS, or an Evo, or even save the money on mods and buy a 440i/240i/etc and bypass the painful years between 1997 and 2015 for BMW.
    • Haha most are for LHD though!  
×
×
  • Create New...