Jump to content
SAU Community

Brake upgrade - EVO vs Alcon or similar

kitto

By kitto,
in Suspension, braking and tyres

 Share

Recommended Posts

kitto Mentor

kitto

Posted
Posted

Been a hot minute since I've used this forum.. I am in the process of getting my track vehicle usable again and buying front brakes is on the agenda and i'm weighing up the options.

I had set on the EVO front upgrade to buy as it appeared to be the best bang for buck, however after doing some sums one can purchase an Alcon kit for not much more.

EVO kit costs come to around $3,000 - $3,500 once you buy calipers, rebuild them, dogbones, and new 5000 series rotors if one were to do it properly.

For around $4,000 depending on the caliper series, an Alcon 355 x 32mm 6 piston caliper kit can be bought.

The biggest advantage going down the Alcon path is considerable weight saving and good aftermarket support.

Who is using either setup and has any feedback to provide?

Vehicle for reference: R31 live axle, RB25, S14 front end, R32 twin pots on the rear, likely manual braking over boost assist.

Cheers,

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • dyl33
      Creative in cabin amp locations

      By dyl33 · Posted

      Slimline sub on the rear parcel shelf is doable. Pioneer TS-WX140DA is only 70mm high.   
    • GTSBoy
      Rear suspension upgrades

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      People like Johnny Dose Bro might be laughing at my post because I accidentally added 100mm to my numbers. 350-355 is indeed the lower limit. 450 is off-road Skyline spec.
    • GTSBoy
      Pillowball/Hardened Runner Hybrid Approach

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      What is the "compromise" that you think will happen? Are you thinking that something will get damaged? The only things you have to be concerned about with spherical jointed suspension arms are; Arguments with the constabulary wrt their legality (they are likely to be illegal for road use without an engineering certificatation, and that may not be possible to obtain). A lot more NVH transmitted through to the passengers (which is hardly a concern for those with a preference for good handling, anyway). Greatly increased inspection and maintenance requirements (see above points, both).   It is extremely necessary to ask what car you are talking about. Your discussion on strut tops, for example, would be completely wrong for an R chassis, but be correct for an S chassis. R32s have specific problems that R33/4 do not have. Etc. I have hardened rubber bushes on upper rear control arms and traction rods. Adjustable length so as to be able to set both camber and bump steer. You cannot contemplate doing just the control arms and not the traction arms. And whatever bushing you have in one you should have in the other so that they have similar characteristics. Otherwise you can get increased oddness of behaviour as one bushing flexes and the other doesn't, changing the alignment between them. I have stock lower rear arms with urethane bushes. I may make changes here, these are are driven by the R32's geometry problems, so I won't discuss them here unless it proves necessary. I have spherical joints in the front caster rods. I have experienced absolutely no negatives and only positives from doing so. They are massively better than any other option. I have sphericals in the FUCAs, but this is driven largely by the (again) R32 specific problems with the motion of those arms. I just have to deal with the increased maintenance required. Given how much better the front end behaves with the sphericals in there.....I'd probably be tempted to go away from my preference (which is not to have sphericals on a road car, for 2 of the 3 reasons in the bulleted list above), just to gain those improvements. And so my preference for not using sphericals (in general) on a road car should be obvious. I use them judiciously, though, as required to solve particular problems.
    • joshuaho96
      Misfire/stalling issues

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Easiest way to know is to break out the multimeter and measure it when cold, then measure all the resistances again once it gets hot enough to misfire. Both the original ignitor and the J Replace version. Factory service manual will have the spec for the terminal measurements.
    • Sleepergm
      Rear suspension upgrades

      By Sleepergm · Posted

      Yes that sounds right. Cars currently in the shop for the engine work. Will need to remeasure .. but yes I think I must be targeting 45cm from fender. 
×
×
  • Create New...