Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Anyone have R33 GTST schematics they can share.  I've had a few guys share schematics for the GTR, but have not come across the GTST schematics.  STILL trying to get my Active LSD to work. (93 R33 GTST).

Specifically looking for the 6 pin connector Active LSD "Gravity Sensor" schematics (GTST only has the 6 pin connector, unlike the GTR that has a 6 AND a 4 pin)

And then the ABS/A-LSD CU schematics.

 

These are my error codes.  And I've tried 2 other gravity units, all with the same results:

62 FR and RR G sensor 2 and circuit

65 G- sensor 2 power supply and circuit

66 Side G sensor and circuit

2 hours ago, jacobzking said:

Anyone have R33 GTST schematics they can share.  I've had a few guys share schematics for the GTR, but have not come across the GTST schematics.  STILL trying to get my Active LSD to work. (93 R33 GTST).

Specifically looking for the 6 pin connector Active LSD "Gravity Sensor" schematics (GTST only has the 6 pin connector, unlike the GTR that has a 6 AND a 4 pin)

And then the ABS/A-LSD CU schematics.

 

These are my error codes.  And I've tried 2 other gravity units, all with the same results:

62 FR and RR G sensor 2 and circuit

65 G- sensor 2 power supply and circuit

66 Side G sensor and circuit

You need to do the following diagnostic flows to narrow down the issue:

 image.thumb.png.6aa63d02ad9e9e298acfad47ae7ebc98.png

image.thumb.png.b4ec9cc54ca3e89d05f56dc97bd62109.png

If you need a wiring diagram you can find it here under A-LSD/ABS: http://yariksteel.ru/manual/R33/Skyline_R33_elektroprovodka.pdf

Edited by joshuaho96
  • Like 2
  • 4 weeks later...
On 8/21/2023 at 11:46 PM, joshuaho96 said:

You need to do the following diagnostic flows to narrow down the issue:

 

If you need a wiring diagram you can find it here under A-LSD/ABS: http://yariksteel.ru/manual/R33/Skyline_R33_elektroprovodka.pdf

 

Is there a flow chart like this for the GTST that you know of?  Since the GTST only has one plug on the sensor, and is missing some of those pinouts on the CU.

I ran through the flow chart and got the appropriate 8V at the 2 pins on the G sensor connector (pins 27-29).  At that point, according to Nissan, needs a new G sensor.  Ive tried 3 different sensors, but what are the chances all 3 are bad?  I've also tried checking voltage out of the sensor (pins 41 and 43) and I'm getting much less than 2.5V.

PS: I get codes 62 (FR and RR G sensor 2 and circuit).  65 G Sensor 2 Power Supply and circuit.  66 Side G sensor and Circuit.

 

On 9/17/2023 at 11:12 AM, jacobzking said:

 

Is there a flow chart like this for the GTST that you know of?  Since the GTST only has one plug on the sensor, and is missing some of those pinouts on the CU.

I ran through the flow chart and got the appropriate 8V at the 2 pins on the G sensor connector (pins 27-29).  At that point, according to Nissan, needs a new G sensor.  Ive tried 3 different sensors, but what are the chances all 3 are bad?  I've also tried checking voltage out of the sensor (pins 41 and 43) and I'm getting much less than 2.5V.

PS: I get codes 62 (FR and RR G sensor 2 and circuit).  65 G Sensor 2 Power Supply and circuit.  66 Side G sensor and Circuit.

 

I'm not really sure what you're saying when you said you ran through the flow chart. Pin 92 appears to be a ground. I would verify that has a good connection. Pin 27 and 29 relative to ground should be 8V as you said. For the GTST single plug if pin 27 and 29 are +8V then 26 and 28 should be the signal output. Verify that the supply voltage stays at roughly 8V with the sensor connected. Then verify that the voltage you get at pin 27 and pin 29 is also what you expect. On a flat table not moving it should be 2.5V. Then check against pin 40, 41, 42, and 43 on your A-LSD control unit. On the g-sensor those are equivalent to pin 27, 26, 28, and 29 respectively if I'm reading the wiring diagram correctly that I linked in my previous post. Should be page 28 of 31 where the A-LSD/ABS control unit pinout is shown. If you can't find it see below:

Screenshot2023-09-18at9_00_39PM.thumb.png.ab1813f676d8d858b1ad42daa77b2f4e.png

Screenshot2023-09-18at9_00_59PM.thumb.png.d21f8630c7a7255095faa94a27bf7775.png

If you have verified the signals are making it through the harness ok with everything connected up then yes, if you aren't getting about 2.5V from the signal pins relative to body earth you have a dead sensor. It's also not that unlikely because it is basically a glorified pendulum with some springs in there attached to a potentiometer to measure position. If someone dropped the sensor at any point from when it was built to any number of shipping depots and junkyards between the point of manufacture and you over the past 3 decades it's possible that the potentiometer breaks or the springs are permanently deformed and it'll read weird values just sitting there. The red shock sensor not reading excessive force is not proof that the sensor works. Just plain wear and tear can also break those sensors, springs have a rated lifespan after which they can snap or the spring constant just isn't accurate anymore.

From looking at the wiring diagram I can also tell you the pinout of the 6 pin sensor connector for the g-sensor is 100% identical between the GTR and the GTST A-LSD. The only difference is that the ATTESA has two longitudinal sensors for some reason while the GTST only uses one. 

  • Like 1
18 minutes ago, joshuaho96 said:

I'm not really sure what you're saying when you said you ran through the flow chart. Pin 92 appears to be a ground. I would verify that has a good connection. Pin 27 and 29 relative to ground should be 8V as you said. For the GTST single plug if pin 27 and 29 are +8V then 26 and 28 should be the signal output. Verify that the supply voltage stays at roughly 8V with the sensor connected. Then verify that the voltage you get at pin 27 and pin 29 is also what you expect. On a flat table not moving it should be 2.5V. Then check against pin 40, 41, 42, and 43 on your A-LSD control unit. On the g-sensor those are equivalent to pin 27, 26, 28, and 29 respectively if I'm reading the wiring diagram correctly that I linked in my previous post. Should be page 28 of 31 where the A-LSD/ABS control unit pinout is shown. If you can't find it see below:

Screenshot2023-09-18at9_00_39PM.thumb.png.ab1813f676d8d858b1ad42daa77b2f4e.png

Screenshot2023-09-18at9_00_59PM.thumb.png.d21f8630c7a7255095faa94a27bf7775.png

If you have verified the signals are making it through the harness ok with everything connected up then yes, if you aren't getting about 2.5V from the signal pins relative to body earth you have a dead sensor. It's also not that unlikely because it is basically a glorified pendulum with some springs in there attached to a potentiometer to measure position. If someone dropped the sensor at any point from when it was built to any number of shipping depots and junkyards between the point of manufacture and you over the past 3 decades it's possible that the potentiometer breaks or the springs are permanently deformed and it'll read weird values just sitting there. The red shock sensor not reading excessive force is not proof that the sensor works. Just plain wear and tear can also break those sensors, springs have a rated lifespan after which they can snap or the spring constant just isn't accurate anymore.

From looking at the wiring diagram I can also tell you the pinout of the 6 pin sensor connector for the g-sensor is 100% identical between the GTR and the GTST A-LSD. The only difference is that the ATTESA has two longitudinal sensors for some reason while the GTST only uses one. 

you da man!

  • 1 month later...

Update: after 3 "faulty" used OEM sensors, I tried one of the DoLuck aftermarket/digital for a GTR (I had to modify the connector plug) sensors and now my error 65 code is GONE! (65 G- sensor 2 power supply and circuit) and I'm just left with these 2...

62 FR and RR G sensor 2 and circuit

66 Side G sensor and circuit

 

So it looks like maybe it was a bunch of old bad, sensors after all.  Not to track down these 2 errors codes.

2 hours ago, jacobzking said:

Update: after 3 "faulty" used OEM sensors, I tried one of the DoLuck aftermarket/digital for a GTR (I had to modify the connector plug) sensors and now my error 65 code is GONE! (65 G- sensor 2 power supply and circuit) and I'm just left with these 2...

62 FR and RR G sensor 2 and circuit

66 Side G sensor and circuit

 

So it looks like maybe it was a bunch of old bad, sensors after all.  Not to track down these 2 errors codes.

Still the same deal, follow the diagnostic workflows posted earlier in the thread. If you can verify it's getting the right supply voltage and then verify that the signal outputs are sane then it's either a harness fault or your A-LSD control unit is damaged somehow.

  • Like 1
  • 4 months later...
20 minutes ago, r32-25t said:

Stick your head under the rear of the car and have a look 

that really is the easiest.

there have been some threads on here to decode the model code if you want to check that, I just had a quick look in FAST and the decode section there does not cover all digits in r33 GTST; the digits it does cover don't include the ALSD option

 

  • 4 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...
On 08/11/2023 at 6:09 AM, jacobzking said:

Update: after 3 "faulty" used OEM sensors, I tried one of the DoLuck aftermarket/digital for a GTR (I had to modify the connector plug) sensors and now my error 65 code is GONE! (65 G- sensor 2 power supply and circuit) and I'm just left with these 2...

62 FR and RR G sensor 2 and circuit

66 Side G sensor and circuit

 

So it looks like maybe it was a bunch of old bad, sensors after all.  Not to track down these 2 errors codes.

Thank you for posting a follow up with the fix it really helps others when they are having the same problems :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...