Jump to content
SAU Community

Scissor lift mount point help..

Gareth87

By Gareth87,
in General Automotive Discussion

 Share

Recommended Posts

Gareth87 Community Regular

Gareth87

Posted
Posted

Hey all. Got myself a brand new in ground scissor lift, but I'm struggling for mounting points. The lift position doesn't quite reach my lift points.. and I'm definitely not sill lifting.

Has anyone made up some bars to attach to the lift tops or alternative lift methods when using a scissor before?

Thanks.

20230808_150604.jpg

  • Like 2
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/484911-scissor-lift-mount-point-help/
Share on other sites
Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

Firstly, f**king awesome car :)

I think what you want is some rubber lifting blocks, they would be available in different heights and often with a slit for the pinch join in the sill to sit in.

Like this: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/273745103302?hash=item3fbc7ac9c6:g:jlQAAOSwpfdcfege&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4NSODXxSkSamC3EtBOgkt1g5oQrdTIqTaCp3zGuUs9p1Vel9C3ZLuVP9lnDYNLq%2Ff%2FaFi%2F78SydkuG2u2VVPjkigY06D%2B6Mqkx4l4awN5HKxyZO5nInskWrZIsiSErWxWQ6jQTx1pOidtpkcFERVm4XC9%2BP4VU0TsOTk2x26aRa7gbAdkpXTQhNJ2Y7S20FSHfebw1KZDb0lIIX%2FTg1qz0g%2FSjSkrlnLAAhuZsVR2iC%2BDH2j2QA4MEB%2FwIhg%2B1xQSq%2FYCW23uVbj9eXeJyt4dFfYPzFptaPXNykRnGY17D6f|tkp%3ABFBMhqGsocti 

  • Like 1
Gareth87 Community Regular

Gareth87

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks lads! Been a work in progress. Had the FJ in my car since 2004. 

As for the blocks. I actually have those, but the problem is that the lift face doesn't reach any of the lift points under the car. I need steel arms or something similar to reach under the car like a conventional 2 poster hoist.

Need some ideas on how to achieve this safely and neatly. Can't find anything out there..

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

I would look at boxing in some small dimension I beam that you attach to the top of the lift to provide the extension you need. The boxed I beam to make it as stiff as possible and also twist resistant.

You'll want to come up with an easily installable/removable connection to the lift face so you don't have to leave them there. Something that you can trust to be firmly attached when in use.

Gareth87 Community Regular

Gareth87

Posted
  • Author
Posted
9 hours ago, Duncan said:

I think I'm catching up....you mean the face of the lift is too short to get to both lifting points on the sills?

Yeah exactly!

7 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

I would look at boxing in some small dimension I beam that you attach to the top of the lift to provide the extension you need. The boxed I beam to make it as stiff as possible and also twist resistant.

You'll want to come up with an easily installable/removable connection to the lift face so you don't have to leave them there. Something that you can trust to be firmly attached when in use.

Great idea. I'll most likely have to punch a hole through the face of the lift to get a fixing. However.. the I beam scenario might be ok as there is only a small over hang either side of the lift face needed to reach a lift point.

Need something like this but length ways

 

Thanks for the input everyone.

 

p1.jpg

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted
2 hours ago, Gareth87 said:

I'll most likely have to punch a hole through the face of the lift to get a fixing.

Yeah, I was thinking that you'd probably end up wanting to weld nuts on the underside of whatever holes you put in the lift faces and then you can throw some bolts down through the beam, or maybe through some flange/tabs welded on side. I like the idea of the tabs on the side as it will help to stabilise the beam from rocking left-right. You could whiz 4 bolts in on each side of the lift with a cordless thingo in a couple of minutes, and the surface would be left flush when they're not there.

The Bogan Grand Master

The Bogan

Posted
Posted

I would look at some plate underneath anything you are thinking of drilling throufh and attaching fixtures.

Even a small amount of side loading could cause issues

Safety first 

  • Like 1
Gareth87 Community Regular

Gareth87

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Ok. So I've taken everyones input and come up with the best option of a length of steel.. something like 100x75x3mm and sitting the rubber blocks on top of it.

Its 1950mm between mounting points on my van ans less on my datsun.

So the overhang is going to be less than 500mm over each end.. but being 1 length of steel and a large contact face in the middle. It will be certainly safe enough.

I'll pickup the steel tomorrow and post some results.

Thanks everyone

  • Like 1
Gareth87 Community Regular

Gareth87

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Problem resolved. Thanks for the help everyone.

Went with 2 lengths of 2.5m steel

125x75x6mm to use to reach the lift points. Works perfectly. Just need some caster wheels on the steel sections to move them into place a little easier.

I can lift a standard height car to 2m and my van to about 1.5m before hitting the portal frames.

20230911_144536.jpg

20230911_144400.jpg

  • Like 3
GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

Looks like it works.

I see a lot of deflection in the RHS though, and I worry about the load application point where the lift point pads are. You're not using the steel in its strongest orientation. I mean, I can totally understand that you want to lay it flat, because it will certainly be more stable and not as tall, but it is bendy.

Maybe you could get some 6 x ~65 straight bar that you could poke in the open ends of the RHS until it is in at least as far as the overlap onto the lift platforms - maybe 300-500mm further in. Then drill some holes in the RHS to plug weld it top and bottom in a few places. This will do wonders against the crush loading at the lift points and probably significantly reduce the bendy deflection too. This is the reason why I suggested boxing in some I beam, to provide the required stiffness.

  • Like 1
The Bogan Grand Master

The Bogan

Posted
Posted

Did you work out the centre of gravity of the vehicles?

Is the 125x75x6mm bolted to the lift frame?

Whilst it looks like it works, it reminds me of a long board overhanging on some work horses, get the weight wrong and to far up one end and all hell could break loose if it tips forwards or backwards 

I would run at least 4 nice sized bolts equally spaced through each of the hoist base and the tube, and use some 6mm flat bar underneath the hoist "ramps" to reinforce the underside to prevent the bolts pulling through

 

Safety first, hospital or smashed car second 

 

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GoHashiriya
      From Japan and back to Europe, my sh*tbox R34 GTT

      By GoHashiriya · Posted

      Cheers. Skyline is back on the menu, can’t get rid of it. It’s like a child you don’t want, or herpes 
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      From Japan and back to Europe, my sh*tbox R34 GTT

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Welcome back brother 
    • GoHashiriya
      From Japan and back to Europe, my sh*tbox R34 GTT

      By GoHashiriya · Posted

      I got back to Japan in January and was keen to get back on track as quickly as possible. Europe is god-awful for track accessibility (by comparison), so I picked up a first-gen GT86 in December just to have something I could jump into right away. The Skyline came over in a container this time and landed in early January. It was a bit battered after Europe, though—I refused to do anything beyond essential upkeep while it was over there. The clutch master cylinder gave out, and so did the power steering. I didn’t even bother changing the oil; it was the same stuff that went in just before I left Japan the first time. Naughty. Power steering parts would’ve cost double with shipping and taxes, so knowing I’d be heading back to Japan, I just postponed it and powered through the arm workout. It took a solid three months to get the car back on the road. Registration was a nightmare this time around. There were a bunch of BS fees to navigate, and sourcing parts was a headache. I needed stock seats for shaken, mistakenly blew 34k JPY on some ENR34 seats—which, of course, didn’t fit—then ended up having the car’s technical sheet amended to register it as a two-seater with the Brides. Then there’s the GT86. Amazing car. Does everything I want it to do. Parts are cheap, easy to find, and I don’t care what anyone says—it’s super rewarding to drive. I’ve done a few basic mods: diff ratio, coilovers, discs, pads, seat, etc. It already had a new exhaust manifold and the 180kph limiter removed, so I assume it’s running some kind of map. I’ve just been thrashing it at the track non-stop—mostly Fuji Speedway now, since I need something with higher speed after all that autobahn time. The wheels on the R34 always pissed me off—too big, and it was a nightmare getting tires to fit properly under the arches. So I threw in the towel and bought something that fits better. Looks way cleaner too (at least to me)—less hotboy, less attention-seeking. Still an R34, though. Now for future plans. There are a few things still outstanding with the car. First up, the rear subframe needs an overhaul—that’s priority one. Next, I need to figure out an engine rebuild plan. No timeline yet, but I want to keep it economical—not cutting corners, just not throwing tens of thousands at a mechanic I can barely communicate with. And finally, paint. Plus a bit of tidying up here and there.  
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Nope, needed to clearance under the bar a little with a heat gun, a 1/2" extension as the "clearancer", and big hammer, I was aware of this from the onset, they fit a 2.0 with this intake no problems, but, the 2.5 is around 15mm taller than a 2.0, so "clearancing" was required  It "just" touched when test fitting, now, I have about 10mm of clearance  You cannot see where it was done, and so far, there's no contact when giving it the beans Happy days
    • GoHashiriya
      From Japan and back to Europe, my sh*tbox R34 GTT

      By GoHashiriya · Posted

      It's been a while since I've updated this thread. The last year (and some) has been very hectic. In the second-half of 2024 I took the R34 on a trip through Germany, Italy, France and Switzerland - it was f*cking great. I got a little annoyed with the attention the car was getting around Europe and really didn't drive it that much. I could barely work on the car since I was living in an inner-city apartment (with underground parking). During the trip, the car lost power steering in France - split hose - and I ended up driving around 4,000kms with no power steering.  There were a few Nurburgring trips here and there, but in total the R34 amassed just shy of 7,000kms on European roads. Long story short, I broke up with the reason I was transferred to Europe for and requested to be moved back to Japan. The E90, loved it. It was a sunk cost of around EUR 10,000 and I sold it to a friend for EUR 1,500 just to get rid of it quickly. Trust me, moving countries f*cking sucks and I could not be bothered to be as methodical as I was the first time around.
×
×
  • Create New...