Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Like the title says, how lowered is your car? And how does it handle on the street? Mine is really low (came like this from japan). I can barely fit a finger between the tire and the fender. It looks good, but is a pain in the ass to get a jack under the car and it does not ride good on the street. 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/484924-how-low-is-your-car/
Share on other sites

6 minutes ago, kevboost7 said:

Like the title says, how lowered is your car? And how does it handle on the street? Mine is really low (came like this from japan). I can barely fit a finger between the tire and the fender. It looks good, but is a pain in the ass to get a jack under the car and it does not ride good on the street. 

I run factory ride height + suspension. The car already barely fits the floor jack under it and my local roads are not good enough to lower it any more. It's not aesthetically pleasing but that's life.

10 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

Mine sits at the minimum height recommended for good lower control arm geometry, which is also effectively the same number for the minimum eyebrow height required for road legality (which is about 345/355 mm).

image.thumb.png.e7eaeffc976b6cb71907abe6a615483f.png

345mm from the ground to the top of the fender?

14 hours ago, soviet_merlin said:

You should do that more often.

Also, on further thought, that is one of about 7 photos I have taken of my car over the last 10 years. I wouldn't have taken more than 50 of the car in the ~24 years that I have owned it, and the majority of those would have been of the empty engine bay during the transplant surgery.

In terms of shots of the whole car, I have 2 in that location and one in my carport at home. And....I think nothing else.

So don't hold your breath!

  • Like 1
  • Sad 1
12 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

Thanks.

Eyebrow height is defined as from centre of wheel to top of guard arch.

why do they measure it from the centre of the wheel? it seems inaccurate

Not just tyre height. Total wheel height. You put a 13" rim on with 165/65 tyres and the car will sit hella low, but the eyebrow height would be the same as it would be with an 18" wheel with 245/45, even though the 18" wheeled car would be ~30mm further off the ground. The eyebrow height is totally a function of the loaded spring length, and a real and relatively reliable indication of whether the car has been lowered excessively. The cops and road authorities have tables of the stock and minimum eyebrow heights for (presumably all) cars in the market. Although possibly just for Bogandores, Foulcans, imports, Lancers and Hondas.

The other "too low" measurement, being the poking of a 100mm ball on a stick under the car to check clearance is a bit harder to do and needs to be done on a perfectly flat surface to avoid arguments from the (well informed) driver/owner of the car. The eyebrow height takes 30s and a tape measure to do.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...