Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah, that harness really does scream, please defect me! 

For anyone wondering, you can use a harness on the road but it needs to automatically retract the same way the stock seatbelt retracts (and I'm assuming its a quality harness that is installed correctly). Still needs to be signed off by an engineer, but it would be easy to get signed off on (this is for NSW in any case).

2 hours ago, morboost said:

can anyone explain how motive seams to always be driving his r32 on road with harness, fixed back seats with a rear seat, is the car not really regoed and he get away with trader plates or rally rego or no f's given?

Heaps of ways you could do it. Lets assume its not just zero f's given. 

Plan out the route with a mate. Have your mate drive in front of you, say about 1km ahead. If they spot a RBT site/defect station/highway patrol hiding by the side of the road, your mate calls you. You see the call come in and you pull over straight away. Find a side street to turn off or do a U-turn etc. If your super paranoid have a car follow behind to spot any highway cars on approach so you can quickly turn into a side street etc. 

For sure he would have enough mates/community resources to be able to pull this off with ease. 

Having said that, what I think is actually happening is, he knows the areas he is driving in. He knows there are never RBT sites set up there and just keeps an eye out for police/highway cars and picks his moments for when he is going to do a pull. 

  • Thanks 1
1 hour ago, morboost said:

have noted that, but qld regs on this would be the same as other states could be wrong I only know vic and nsw

Having moved from NSW to QLD, I can tell you that QLD rego is wayyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy easier to sort. It's not even close. 

My R33 is mod plated, everything is listed, I couldn't believe how easy and pain free the process was compared to the NSW engineering process (which I have also gone through previously and is not a fun experience). 

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @666DAN sorry to bring you and old thread.     I've got my de+t done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.    Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd when selected . But nothing when in  drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic. I'm sure there is maybe 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Do ya have any ideas?     Cheers man
    • Well I recently changed my rear axles and was thinking if I bumped anything, I have been driving the car for a while now though... But it has been raining today so everything is wet under the wheel arches. Brakes feel fine and can't hear any of the metal screamers, I had a squeak coming from one of the handbrake drums but that seems to have gone away a while ago. I was going down a hill when it lit up and I did feel the abs bite for a second and question why it did it?
    • Correct. Um. I dunno. I haven't cared enough about the way that the NA cars work to know for sure. But..... The 33/34 turbo manual cars have an electronic speed sensor in the gearbox that outputs a +/- (ie, sawtooth AC) voltage signal. That is connected to the speedo. The speedo then outputs a 0-5v square wave (ie, PWM) signal that the ECU (and any other CU on the bus) sees. The speed sensor is NOT directly connected to the ECU. So here's the problem. Your new ECU expects to see the PWM signal, but must somehow be getting a direct signal from the diff speed sensor. Which would suggest that the wiring of the NA car is not the same as the turbo cars. I think you will need to spend some time with (hopefully the wiring diagram for the car) and a multimeter to see what is connected to what. Then, presuming I am correct**, you would then want to separate the ECU speed signal input from the rest of the car's wiring, and probably either buy a speed signal converter, or build one using an arduino (or similar). That would take in the speed sensor signal and output a scaled (and suitably rearranged) signal for the ECU. ** We shouldn't presume that I am correct here, because there might be something else crazy going on. I don't think you could convert the speedo to be fed from the gearbox sensor, because the pulse rate from that sensor is probably different to the diff sensor and then the speedo would read wrongly. And this also wouldn't fix the ECU's problem either, because the ECU doesn't want to see the gearbox signal direct either (assuming that they are all on the same wiring, for some odd NA related reason, see above caveat!) Does this help? Probably not. Can you make it work? Almost certainly. With the above work. You should buy a handheld oscilloscope from Aliexpress so that you can view these signals directly. Connect up the probes and drive the car. Show photos of the screen when drving at known speeds and connected to different places, and we'll see what we can learn about it.
    • Assuming your brake pads are not worn right down, I'd add a little brake fluid. Is there any sign of a brake fluid leak?
    • Hello all,  I need of some help. On my drive home my handbrake light lit up and started flashing. When I got home I checked my handbrake sensor under the centre console and nothing seemed out of the ordinary. I have scanned my car via the consult port, no codes shown. Checked my brake fluid as well which is half full. Tried unplugging the brake master but it didn't change anything. Thoughts on what it could be? The master float doesn't seem to be stuck. My car is an 1998 ER34 sedan GT. No hicas but has ABS Photos below 👇🏾 
×
×
  • Create New...