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Now as I understand it the engine numbers are sequential for the rb26. 

EG stamped - RB26040100A is a 40,100 engine. 

 

Now they made between 1988 and 1994 43,834 R32 GTR's 

In 1994 they made 7,464 r32 gtr's. 

So if you have a ~37,000++ number RB26 it's "safe" ish to assume its an 1994 motor and a long nose crank ? 

 

The long nose crank being introduced somewhere in Feb of 1993. 

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found this on the forum , suggests I am in the range 

-----------------------------

From the segmented (potentially incorrect) information I've found that; 

Early R32: RB26000XXXX to RB26002XXXX 

Mid R32: RB26003XXXX (V-Spec I RB26-03XXXXX - Reference Classic Register)

Late R32: RB26004XXXX (V-Spec II RB26-042XXXX - RB26-045XXXX - Reference Classic Register)

Early R33: RB26005XXXX

Mid R33: RB26006XXXX (as per the engine in this R32 V-Spec II, which is what I'm concerned about from legitimacy perspective)

Late R33:  RB26007XXXX

Early R34 (2000+):  RB26008XXXX

----------------------

 

  • Thanks 1
5 hours ago, Butters said:

found this on the forum , suggests I am in the range 

-----------------------------

From the segmented (potentially incorrect) information I've found that; 

Early R32: RB26000XXXX to RB26002XXXX 

Mid R32: RB26003XXXX (V-Spec I RB26-03XXXXX - Reference Classic Register)

Late R32: RB26004XXXX (V-Spec II RB26-042XXXX - RB26-045XXXX - Reference Classic Register)

Early R33: RB26005XXXX

Mid R33: RB26006XXXX (as per the engine in this R32 V-Spec II, which is what I'm concerned about from legitimacy perspective)

Late R33:  RB26007XXXX

Early R34 (2000+):  RB26008XXXX

----------------------

 

I think you pretty much nailed it.

  • Like 1

THANKS !

 

Sequential at times but overall Incremental is probably a better way to state it. 

Chassis numbers with Nissan's are like that too, jump when a change of some kind occurs. 

 

Bit of a surprise to find out that despite being a 32 RB26, it's most likely the better crank. 

 

Winner Winner. 

11 minutes ago, Predator1 said:

Doesn't really do any good, especially without billet gears. The oem pump is crap. If it doesn't break, the screws holding the backing plate will come loose.

I think he's just happy that the crank doesn't have to come out of the engine in order to have a good (read reliable) oil pump.

  • Like 1
17 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

I think he's just happy that the crank doesn't have to come out of the engine in order to have a good (read reliable) oil pump.

Over the moon in fact.  Engine is coming out to put on a new enlarged sump. I planned on putting on either a new pump(Tomei / Nitto) or billet gears.   But a bit of waste of time if the crank has narrow collar.

 

Things spiral quickly, if crank is out, new bearings ... maybe new rods and pistons ... wait just rebuild the engine... oh but I should get an N1 block  .... 40k later  .... haha.

1 hour ago, Predator1 said:

Doesn't really do any good, especially without billet gears. The oem pump is crap. If it doesn't break, the screws holding the backing plate will come loose.

I've never seen this on a factory built RB26 have the screws come out, or gears break for that fact. Only once someone has touched the motor have I heard / seen it.   I've seen a few factory built Rb25's shatter gears but we talking high mileage extreme beating at drift track, constant limiter for a full season.  Well outside what it was built for.

1 hour ago, Butters said:

I've never seen this on a factory built RB26 have the screws come out, or gears break for that fact. Only once someone has touched the motor have I heard / seen it.   I've seen a few factory built Rb25's shatter gears but we talking high mileage extreme beating at drift track, constant limiter for a full season.  Well outside what it was built for.

Def happens. Happened to mine too. Have pics to prove. Super picky, I noticed the OP slowly dropping.

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