Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi. In these days i finally get to the interior. Bought some new parts to change and now iam at the radio unit.
It is some old carrozzeria unit. 

Is there any unit to fit to the R34 which can show me some info about the car like oil/coolent temperature etc? I just want cuz of this. If it cant i try to find OEM cuz i dont even listen to music :-) 
 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/485720-1998-r34-head-unitinfotainment/
Share on other sites

There's the Apexi DIN3 meter however it's long been discontinued:

https://www.apexi.co.jp/products/discontinued-products/din3-meter/

This guy installed one in a R34 Skyline 1DIN pocket using brackets which could go in the space for the radio? I don't own an R34 so can't confirm.

https://minkara.carview.co.jp/userid/2839151/car/2447015/5771545/note.aspx

If you could find one for sale it might do the job?

 

Edited by Rezz

I want to say that Haltech can be used with ODBII tools nowadays. Kinda useful if you want your head unit to do other things as well, like maps, music, phone calls.. *and* digital gauges.

Stock ECU does not use ODBII. I don't think a R34 is going to have any head unit that reads OEM ECU's to display.... the things the gauges already display. (boost, battery voltage, oil temperature, oil pressure)

Also keep in mind that oil temp, oil pressure are not in the ECU unless you add them.

Either way you should be able to get RealDash running on any unrestricted android head unit, I used an ATOTO S8. Mine is connected to a Link but I assume Haltech is the same basic approach, you just need to add a CAN to USB converter for the head unit. 

More details of my setup in my stagea build thread (somewhere...) if that helps

The Apexi DIN 3 is just 3x gauges. You can achieve the same goal via a number of different approaches. You can buy 3x 52mm stepper motor gauges and their accompanying sensors and fit that up with a 3x gauge mount. I have EGT, Boost and Oil Temp in mine.

If I were starting from scratch these days, I would buy an LCD or OLED screen, driver board and Arduino or similar and build from scratch.

Ok thanks i try look into it.

And i dont wanna start a new thread so i ask here.

Can this steering wheel https://trust-kikaku.myshopify.com/products/875111001 fit on my car (R34 GT) It has OEM GT/T wheel (no auto - factory manual) Of course the center with the airbag would be from that stock wheel.

7 hours ago, Kapr said:

Apexi DIN3 would work with stock ECU/car?

Yes. It's not dependent on the ECU. It's connected to its own set of sensors and uses its own harnesses/sensor unit.

img_el_din3m_04.jpg

  • Thanks 1

The sensible solution is probably to follow everyone else's advice and get something that just reads from CAN and can show anything.

But, in similar style as Apexi there's also the Defi DIN gauge kit. They are still making them and releasing new colour schemes. Comes with its own sensors and runs independently from the ECU.

https://www.defi-shop.com/products/din/summary_din/
https://www.nengun.com/defi/din-gauge-rhd

I have those in my Stagea. Personally I like them because they are good quality clean looking analog gauges that look OEM at night. Reading coolant temp, oil temp + oil pressure. Shows at a glance whether the car is warm enough to boost it or getting too hot and need to let off a bit.

gauges_1.thumb.jpg.d172ae6d91e6cef17777daebfe903fd8.jpg  gauges_2.thumb.jpg.c0234a270287b8c73ccea2fd0b9bf4cf.jpg

Lessons learned with this:
- The pressure sensor output can also be split off to an aftermarket ECU. Mine goes to both the gauges and the Haltech
- Apparently can't do that for temperature sensors. From what I understand they use specific resistances for the signal and splitting off from it might mess with the readings.

  • Like 1

The thing about the above is that the R34 already has a triple gauge cluster for this. Though you could run 3 _more_ which is what I used to do back in the day. But you do start to run out of things to monitor.

Ultimately the stock ECU is kinda limited. You end up eventually replacing the stock ECU then start picking up gauges and displays that interface with the ECU you end up going with.

On 8/11/2024 at 8:48 AM, Duncan said:

Also keep in mind that oil temp, oil pressure are not in the ECU unless you add them.

Either way you should be able to get RealDash running on any unrestricted android head unit, I used an ATOTO S8. Mine is connected to a Link but I assume Haltech is the same basic approach, you just need to add a CAN to USB converter for the head unit. 

More details of my setup in my stagea build thread (somewhere...) if that helps

Haltech are releasing Haltech Connect.

Their Nexxus ECUs have WiFi, and the Headunit can connect over WiFi direct to the ECU.

Also allows full access to every parameter in the ECU, so you can tune from the Headunit. :P

15 hours ago, MBS206 said:

Haltech are releasing Haltech Connect.

Their Nexxus ECUs have WiFi, and the Headunit can connect over WiFi direct to the ECU.

Also allows full access to every parameter in the ECU, so you can tune from the Headunit. :P

Took those guys a very long time to catch up with PowerFC!

23 hours ago, Duncan said:

Took those guys a very long time to catch up with PowerFC!

No no, PowerFC comes with its own HeadUnit! Haltech you need to use someone else's Headunit! 

 

Plus, the PowerFC hand controller, you can play Tetris on it too!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...