Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

..m'kay.... I see on my phone you're having difficulties interpreting the artfully hand drawn R31 wiring diagrams... you wouldn't credit it, but they're actually more accurate than those colour diagrams in gregory's and the like...

...for your purposes though, the wiring colour legend is on sheet 1....

14YKO7Q.png

....the fuel pump connector is top right on sheet 2....

0s6TUn3.png

...pin1 (black) goes to chassis ground -- pin5 (light green/red trace)...

The best way to navigate those drawings, is to open them up in whatever image manipulation/paint program you like, and use the straight line/ruler  tool (with a highlight colour) to trace along the wire lines...not hard, no rocket science involved...

Fun facts:

The OEM diagrams are drawn to top trim level spec ~ so for example, you're looking at Silo spec wiring, but the base S3 Executive trim is also covered by the same drawing (base models just don't have all the add-on luxury bits)

One of the more sublime bits of errata, is this bit...

0pWSxCs.png

The wire splice between pins7,14 doesn't exist (red) -- the bridge on the cluster PCB between the same pins (green) does exist...but it's not 'there' physically...it's actually more towards the center of the PCB, exactly at the spot where they tend to crack...and if it does, only half the dash lights work... can drive you nuts chasing it ; don't ; just solder in the missing splice...

PK8evIo.png

These are 'intentional' soldered and taped splices inside the loom(s) ~ there's also unintentional splices like this, due to manufacturing process when a spool of one particular coloured wire runs out, and they splice in/on a new spool. Those splices above are in the loom, LHS, underneath the front guard panel (remove to get at loom)... if water's gotten into the looms, you can expect corrosion at these splices ... keep this stuff in mind, if in the future you get any weird electrical faults... 👍

 

Nice write up solder thank you. 
that problem had fallen into another days fun. I wanted to get this cold side in and turned over so it was wired up the same to get a start.

no luck I got a couple of cough’s before the battery died unfortunately.

we have some wether on the way and I’m back to work, I will order your plugs and re wire them in the near future. 🤙

  • 2 weeks later...
On 10/8/2024 at 6:45 PM, 25RBGT said:

Yeah I noticed this just now. No doubt she will be running smoother next start😂🤣😂

IMG_8189.jpeg

Similar to a video I watched on YT recently. They were like "that sounded really weird..." They took it one step further though. They forgot to put cylinder 1 spark plug back in after checking timing.

12 hours ago, MBS206 said:

Similar to a video I watched on YT recently. They were like "that sounded really weird..." They took it one step further though. They forgot to put cylinder 1 spark plug back in after checking timing.

Haha yeah mate, I didn’t notice till I watched the video myself haha

 

Motor done back together, surprised is a understatement with this rb30.

just think 10m under flood waters for a couple weeks, 20lt water inside the engine for 3years.

cleaning the cooling system installing new plugs leads and overflow bottle and then I’m closing the bonnet moving onto the restoration of the body. 
 

already finished few external pieces for putting the puzzle back together.

this has been very enjoyable, frustrating at times definitely. Moving forward with my silo sub!!!

thank you to everyone that has helped me so far, ✌️

IMG_8294.jpeg

New leads, over flow bottle and windscreen washer bottle cap. Gear box is getting oil shortly so I can drive it around my yard. 
running nicely! 

R34 must be getting shitty I’m spending all my time on the r31. It shit a brake switch yesterday. They are not fun to get to haha


best get into the power steering and brake system next. ✌️

IMG_8331.jpeg

Edited by 25RBGT

Can't remember if you've done the diff yet, after my 33 went under water, it was full of water a long while later.

Drained and refilled with oil.

 

Mine hasnt been moved under its own power yet though, but inspection camera before refilling and it looked like it should be all okay. Let's hope bearings are fine ha ha!

Yeah gear box was not full but did have some water mixed with the fluid, steeering rack and brakes are next as the box is getting fluid to see if it will move around the back yard without the assistance of my patrol dragging it.

the box or motor I’m assuming will be in very used condition and shortly give up. But who knows. 🤞

i lsd got fresh oil and the old oil was not contaminated with any water. 

  • 2 weeks later...
9 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

One small step for an R31...one giant leap for a submarine?

Been a bit of work to get to this point, definitely a huge milestone for this sub✌️

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeh I think i'll message an old contact i had for ages that manages his own tyre shop now.. n tell him what i want n work with him before ordering..  Got this 17x9 +30 Driftteks on 245/45/17 PSR Drag Radials on the rear.. They fit well - for your reference in future - Rear guards  have been lipped in & minimal to non flaring of the rear Gaurds.    
    • If only it were that easy! I also needed to remove seats, shocks, brake calipers, send my car through a fence, and use measuring and ended up guessing because I didn't remove seats, shocks and brake calipers. It can be hard sometimes Can be a little more complex than 'just measure' if you want to truly measure the entire wheel through all of it's suspension travel. But if you aren't going for every last mm then yeah, you can check the space you currently have and guesstimate.
    • If you own a car, and it has wheels on it, and you know the offset of those wheels, and you have a measuring device, you have everything you need to work out if other wheels will fit.
    • Will this fit? but they are staggered set - RAYS 57DR SEMI GLOSS BLACK 18x8.5 +37 | 18x9.5 +38 5-114.3 STAGGERED SET   or If no go could just get a set 4's wheels of 18x8.5 +37 5-114.3 - would i run 8.5's 235s up front n 245's at the back if I do?   Thanks.        
    • Put a clamp on your return line. I have a feeling it's sucking air, and introducing bubbles to your fuel. With a lot of fuel, less problematic. I'd honestly be redoing all the lines in the tank and clamps on everything.   Also, you've given two different answers to the same question: Asked if being followed by the police you could get down to use the whole tank, you said yes you could, so long as you keep off boost. However, you then followed this up that free revving, it would also cause the issues. I'm doubting free revving is enough to make any noticeable boost on what is likely a decent sized turbo.   So now I have to ask, can you actually drive it lightly and use all the fuel, or does it break up even free revving? Also, have you put a fuel pressure gauge on it? Can you hear the pump change noise at all when you're having this issue?
×
×
  • Create New...