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I have recently fitted a Nismo GT Pro Center second Hand buy still in the box

i got stubs with it but they are 5 bolt and I need 6 (3x2) I was told by Just Jap that for a 4:36 ratio the stub axles are equal length sku 38220-0V161. They didn't have any in stock but I picked up the ones pictured. The one with 5 bolt are the ones that came with the LSD.

The right side went in no issues but the right....I have happened the fk out of it put it in a press and it still sticks out about 5mm too far. It was sticking out about 25mm but after bashing it like Chris Brown did to Rhianna I managed to get it a bit further in but seems stuck again now. Any ideas? Should I just leave it 5mm out and send it?

 

 

 

 

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From memory and please correct me if I have this wrong, the nismo that come with half shafts are specific for that diff centre. You may be able to find Nissan ones that match up but you'd need to understand what nismo are doing. 

 

Best option is get  a pair of 5x1 axles, they usually don't cost that much and direct swap over for the 3x2(6 bollt) 

  • Like 3
10 hours ago, Butters said:

Best option is get  a pair of 5x1 axles, they usually don't cost that much and direct swap over for the 3x2(6 bollt)

Actually, the best option is probably to get some of the stronger aftermarket driveshafts that have both the 5x1 and 3x2 pattern on them, so OP can do whatever the hell OP likes with the diff in the future and not have all this angst.

I posted a link to them sometime in the last 2 weeks, I'm sure.

  • Like 1
14 hours ago, OO Dan OO said:

It depends on what the guy who bought its Ratio is. Mine is a 4.36 Jus Jap told me anything above a 3:9 has equal length shafts which the Nismo center's shafts were not.

those 2 sets of shafts will not interchange and if you’re lucky you haven’t damaged anything with all your pressing and bashing you said you’ve done 

13 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

AFAIK, the length of the shafts has NOTHING to do with the ratio of the diff.

 The manual says a lot about the different ratios requiring different shafts.

all the Centers are the same but depending on the ratio, this determines the shafts because different ratios need the center to be offset more or less or right to left.

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5 hours ago, OO Dan OO said:

all the Centers are the same but depending on the ratio, this determines the shafts because different ratios need the center to be offset more or less or right to left.

OK. I can see that being the case. But if you live in the land of "only switching between 4.08, 4.11, 4.36" like most Skyliners, then you never encounter it. Now I perhaps understand why the crownwheel is thicker on some of the smaller numerical ratio diffs.

The two stubs being the same (unequal) lengths and just swapped side to side between the different cases is a new one to me.

I'm hating Nissan R200s more than ever now.

Ok another question. I have everything back in the car I have a very Uneven part of my driveway and one wheel is nearly touching the ground. Only the one barely hitting the ground is spinning. There are no weird noises when driving. Jacking the car up and turning one wheel, the other does not spin and same if I turn the wheel on the other side. But when I put the car in gear and drive, (in the air) both wheels spin. Is all of this normal?

2 hours ago, OO Dan OO said:

Is all of this normal?

No. Not normal. Mech LSD should turn the left wheel forwards when you turn the right wheel forwards. Open diff does the reverse. If the opposite wheel does not turn at all, I cannot explain what you're experiencing.

Something must be f**ked.

4 hours ago, OO Dan OO said:

Ok another question. I have everything back in the car I have a very Uneven part of my driveway and one wheel is nearly touching the ground. Only the one barely hitting the ground is spinning. There are no weird noises when driving. Jacking the car up and turning one wheel, the other does not spin and same if I turn the wheel on the other side. But when I put the car in gear and drive, (in the air) both wheels spin. Is all of this normal?

sounds like you've just described a helical/torsen diff, when you load up the rear wheels with the handbrake, then I'm assuming both wheels will then spin

40 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

sounds like you've just described a helical/torsen diff, when you load up the rear wheels with the handbrake, then I'm assuming both wheels will then spin

Yeah, but surely no-one could hold either of the possible diffs in hand and mistake one for the other.

7 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

Yeah, but surely no-one could hold either of the possible diffs in hand and mistake one for the other.

either that, or the said LSD is worn OR the initial torque setting (being a Nismo one, I'm assuming it has the adjustment on the RHS when you pull out the stub axle) it is set so low it's not engaging

9 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

sounds like you've just described a helical/torsen diff, when you load up the rear wheels with the handbrake, then I'm assuming both wheels will then spin

I will test out today. I have a Torsen in My 1600 and it's great.

54 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

Or had the living shit beaten out of it trying to drive the stub axle in....

It was doing the same befor I tried forcing the stub in. It was the C clip that got deformed. The inside and Stub look fine

I should have had a better look at it before I threw it in. I took the guy's word for it that it was genuinely a new 1.5 way and not what he pulled out of his car. But it looked brand new and had all new larger Crownwheel bolts

On 06/10/2024 at 6:19 PM, GTSBoy said:

OK. I can see that being the case. But if you live in the land of "only switching between 4.08, 4.11, 4.36" like most Skyliners, then you never encounter it. Now I perhaps understand why the crownwheel is thicker on some of the smaller numerical ratio diffs.

The two stubs being the same (unequal) lengths and just swapped side to side between the different cases is a new one to me.

I'm hating Nissan R200s more than ever now.

The struggle is real with lower ratios, has cost me a fortune making my 3.5 work.

Pull it apart, stuck one stub axle in a vice spline facing up, then stick the centre on. Insert the other stub axle then apply torque wrench. Report back. I suspect it's borked. The good news is they're pretty simple inside, bad news is parts for the Nismo stuff are hard to come by.

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