Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So, I did a skid pan last Friday at SMSP which I totally sucked at. I'd like to get better at this but it was $350 and I probably got about 20 mins on the pan over the 4 hours I was there which is just not a great ROI. 

I don't have a LSD in the car yet, that will happen before I go again. I was struggling to get the car to be consistent and I think it was the open diff. I also struggled to maintain any control at all once it did step out. More practice needed. 

I found this one but it's a good 7hrs round trip for me. https://www.fifthgear.com.au/course/advanced-skidpan-training

Are there any others that people have been to around Sydney? 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/485933-skid-pans-inaround-sydney/
Share on other sites

FWIW, the Sutton Road facility is a good one, they have a wet kidney skidpan and a dry area as well as the back track....the club hired it a few times back in the day

The clover and wet pans at Eastern Creek are the only ones I still know of in Sydney, that place is always expensive but different clubs would run different prices/formats

There used to be a place called HART at St Ives, not sure if that still exists.

We used to hire the runway at the tafe at schofields for dry motorkhana, not sure if anyone still does that. And of course that lovely one at Oran Park that is now a housing estate....

Thanks Duncan, HART is only 10 mins from me (I did my bike license there), it'd be awesome if it ran these types of things. 

Sutton Road does look good and they take fewer cars than SMSP which is good. 

Surely you have enough land to lay a few million tonnes of concrete and some sprinklers D? 

4 hours ago, PranK said:

Thanks Duncan, HART is only 10 mins from me (I did my bike license there), it'd be awesome if it ran these types of things. 

Sutton Road does look good and they take fewer cars than SMSP which is good. 

Surely you have enough land to lay a few million tonnes of concrete and some sprinklers D? 

Skip the concrete, we just need to smooth a field.

Mark knows how to drive a grader Duncan ;)

 

I reckon 100x100 flat area for skid pan style, and then some sort tracks for rally...

Duncan's already got a rally car on the premises to...

  • Like 2
13 hours ago, Duncan said:

pretty sure that is about $1M for a 100mx100m slab....I'm gunna need some help on that.

I do have the space and understanding neighbours though

Crowd funding FTW

11 hours ago, PranK said:

Crowd funding FTW

 

On 11/13/2024 at 7:59 PM, Duncan said:

pretty sure that is about $1M for a 100mx100m slab....I'm gunna need some help on that.

I do have the space and understanding neighbours though

I go back to, skip the concrete, we just need smooth dirt/grass...

You weld us up one of those huge take like things you buy at Bunnings for spreading dirt nicely, except we'll tow it behind a car instead of push by hand. 😛

  • Haha 2

I did a motokhana years ago with ??Sydney Sporting Car Club???, it was on a grassy paddock and was heaps of fun, I think it was north west Sydney IIRC

The old R33 boat was covered in grass and dirt, but nothing that a good wash and detail didn't fix

And thinking back, when SAU did the airstrip run in Goulburn years ago, where the old 33 won highest RWD MPH, the quickest RWD ET on the airstrip, and best paint IIRC (before the runs down the airstrip) the damage to the rear quarters from stones flicking up required them the get a respray 

I would definitely do a grass motokhana again in the MX5

Who knows someone that owns a farm with a big empty paddock 

Liability these days is a big issue though

21 hours ago, MBS206 said:

 

I go back to, skip the concrete, we just need smooth dirt/grass...

You weld us up one of those huge take like things you buy at Bunnings for spreading dirt nicely, except we'll tow it behind a car instead of push by hand. 😛

Dragging some reo behind a ute or trailer will smooth out a dirt road, I've used reo a few times to do unsealed road maintenance when we didn't have any plant available 

It's best done when the dirt is wet though, and then you just let it dry out for a day to harden up

For wetting the dirt I've used some 44 gal drums in a ute or trailer, and a water pump connected to a hose with a old sprinkler tied to the reo to wet the material down whilst spreading

Basically just drive slowly up and down the road a few times dragging a few sheets of reo wired together with the sprinkler wetting it all down as you go

  • Like 1
12 hours ago, niZmO_Man said:

$350 for a skid pan day at EC? WTF??
They used to be like <$100? We had track days at EC south and the full circuit for $350-odd WOOOWWWW COVID ruined us all.

lol let me guess 10c lollies used to cost 10c too! prices have moved on old timer

  • Sad 1
9 hours ago, Duncan said:

lol let me guess 10c lollies used to cost 10c too! prices have moved on old timer

Theres still skid pan and motokhana days up in QLD at least that are $100 or less.

The ones that are ran as "driver training" less so, they're expensive, but just normal skid pan days like SAU ran are still low cost.

And thats one of the places I learned to be a lariken, purely by asking for passenger rides, and how people were doing crazy things. Reese gave me plenty of pointers back in the day for skid pan!

And yes Duncan, I will never forget your pointers for track work. Especially after Neil got out saying "I am NEVER getting in the car with him again!" 😛

  • Haha 2

I did a skidpan night at SMSP this week, it was much cheaper than $350.

But yeah, you need to slap an LSD in that thing.  I put an OS Giken in the 370Z and it's f**king MARVELOUS even compared to Nissan's viscous LSD.

On 11/13/2024 at 9:56 AM, Duncan said:

And of course that lovely one at Oran Park that is now a housing estate....

So you're saying it's free now that it's a housing estate? 😂

  • Like 2
  • 4 weeks later...

$350 seems pretty steep for a wetpan event, you can definitely find cheaper ones there depending on the club running it.

I have done 4 there now with both Driving Sports & Australian Drift Club with entry being $160 & $180 respectively.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...