Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'll check the wiring plan tomorrow.

Now when you say ALL the earth's are to the chassis, is that including the sensor ground from the ECU?

Certain items should not be grounded to the car/body/chassis, they should ground back to specific ground pins on the ECU.

  • Like 1
2 minutes ago, MBS206 said:

I'll check the wiring plan tomorrow.

Now when you say ALL the earth's are to the chassis, is that including the sensor ground from the ECU?

Certain items should not be grounded to the car/body/chassis, they should ground back to specific ground pins on the ECU.

yes sorry i should of spoke better, all sensors are grounded into their specific homes in the ecu, the ecu is then grounded to the chassis itself along with the EFI relay.

  • Like 2
12 hours ago, MBS206 said:

I think definitely get a manual oil pressure gauge on it then.

Double check if it's really dropping pressure that low.

THIS.

I was losing my mind looking at the OEM gauge which does 'work' in a R34. I lost a lot of time and sanity figuring out how it works and whether I could trust it. The only downside I have now is my wiring is almost correct myself, and occasionally my working Oil pressure sensor likes to randomly spike to -11PSI once every.. oh I dunno. Hour or two? It gives an ear splitting alarm for no reason which is fun. But I know my oil pressure didn't truly drop from 45psi to -11psi to 45psi over a 0.01 second range while cruising at 60kmh in 5th gear :p

Save your sanity and know for sure!

  • Like 1
2 hours ago, Kinkstaah said:

THIS.

I was losing my mind looking at the OEM gauge which does 'work' in a R34. I lost a lot of time and sanity figuring out how it works and whether I could trust it. The only downside I have now is my wiring is almost correct myself, and occasionally my working Oil pressure sensor likes to randomly spike to -11PSI once every.. oh I dunno. Hour or two? It gives an ear splitting alarm for no reason which is fun. But I know my oil pressure didn't truly drop from 45psi to -11psi to 45psi over a 0.01 second range while cruising at 60kmh in 5th gear 😛

Save your sanity and know for sure!

Oh man that sounds nasty! The fact it reads to a negative value is... Odd... That would nearly make me think is it firmware? Unless 0V doesn't equal 0psi?

I'm honestly not sure. I wired it into the OEM ECU and my pinning the ECU and making the plug is not as perfect as the OEM would otherwise be. This is via the Torque app for ODBII. You can set an alarm, but you can't set a timed alarm. It would be nice to set the alarm threshold for being under X psi for 0.2 seconds or something like that to filter this out.

I also noticed the OEM R34 gauge has very specific intervals it sets itself to. I.e 1-2-3-4 bar, and it rounds down. So if you say have 27psi oil pressure hot, the OEM gauge will read 1 bar at idle. (GM incredibly specify 7psi per 1000 RPM so 1 bar is double what is 'needed')

This terrifying notion is what lead me to get 3 oil pressure sensors and gauges :P

  • 2 weeks later...

So didn't get around to installing a manual oil pressure gauge and then decided to take the car for a cruisey drive to a cars and coffee and brought the laptop along with to get another log using more gears to see if its an oil pressure issue under acceleration or after.

image.thumb.png.afd468ce11077f70612e64a2ca63de13.png

this log has 3 gears of WOT where as previous had 2 and the oil pressure dropped once on the brakes, and the same again happens here which is interesting as it shows it can hold oil pressure while under acceleration but once slowing or just the lower RPM after a pull pressure drops.

I will be chucking a manual oil pressure gauge on to confirm but so far this makes me feel it is not an electrical issue. Something else i realised is the pressure sensor also is giving temperature information and the temp stays steady the whole time which makes me feel like the sensor itself is showing a true pressure reading.

2 minutes ago, pogman said:

Something else i realised is the pressure sensor also is giving temperature information and the temp stays steady the whole time which makes me feel like the sensor itself is showing a true pressure reading.

Not in any way a logical conclusion.

Also, looking at those logs, I struggle to see how that much oil pressure can go away that fast unless you are sucking air into the pickup.

Meanwhile the ECU voltage is chucking a huge wobbly which seems to be tied to the throttle position. 100% throttle results in decreasing voltage.

It's a mess.

9 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

Not in any way a logical conclusion.

Also, looking at those logs, I struggle to see how that much oil pressure can go away that fast unless you are sucking air into the pickup.

Meanwhile the ECU voltage is chucking a huge wobbly which seems to be tied to the throttle position. 100% throttle results in decreasing voltage.

It's a mess.

Ok interesting i guess ill wait till using a manual gauge before making assumptions.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, i’m making a rb25det coil loom for Vag short coil. Can anybody tell me which Ecu signal wire belong to coil number 1 and 2,3,4,5,6? The connecting switch in above pic is 8 wire i think white is for +12v and black for earth.
    • Was there ever a model of the Stagea m35 that didnt have a badge on the grill? I thought I saw that somewhere, some aero edition or something? I cant find it again? davemoto
    • Its a 2002 vr-x four VQ25DET, silver. Coil overs, lowered, polished alloys and sport exhaust. Bit of a project, was sitting in a shed for a while but runs and drives great.
    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
×
×
  • Create New...