Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1992 PS13 Silvia - SR20DE

Complete professional Green Respray - 6 different pearls, done only 6 months ago - NOT A MARK ON PAINT WORK

Complete full interior retrim and air brushing on dash

18" White lenso wheels - with new rubber

Full stereo - cerwin vega splits & 2x 12" JL Audio subs

Rare Pulse Autostyling Body Kit

2.5" Exhaust w 3" dump pipe

Chrome rockercover and chrome strut brace

Turbo exhaust manifold and spare set of wheels also supplied

Digital Climate Control

Alarm/Immob

105,000 KMs

THIS CAR IS READY FOR SHOW - IT IS IMMACULATE - Hardly been driven since having this work done - always garaged

I looked at it like 100 time i want it but i don't think its worth that much how much wood u pay for it

http://www.users.on.net/~traviswood/Green/

I have to get a loan to get it but i like it a lot i won't have FULL COMP thats y i am worried On L's i what u think

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/49601-what-about-this-for-a-first-car/
Share on other sites

The only good thing about it as a first car is that it's only a DE....

With all that money spent in it why didn't they give it some tint??

Don't get a loan for a first car, it's highly likely that you will crash it, and if you couldn't afford the full comp you just lost yourself a car, if you did get full comp then you would have a shitload of excess to pay. It's not like you could mod it much either... as most things are already done (apart from turbo, which IMO you shouldn't do till you're off your P's anyway).

If you just want to be 'fUlLy SiK' than go for it...

probably didnt get tint so that people can see inside and see the retrim/dash spray shit.

its over the top but different :( somehow doesnt look too bad all curvey on a silvia, which is an acheivement.,.,

full comp is handy especially on that car, coz ull get some arsehole keying it, or trying to steal the wheels, or some person at uni/shops etc will open the door onto your car and ull be getting shit fixed all the time to keep the paint perfect, and with different pearls in it it'll be expensive full panel spray every time and probably still never match up ;)

best to get a shitty sort of one for now and just use any extra money you may save to buy some coilovers, exhaust, and lsd to begin with and learn to drive it and then step up to a turbo one .

but again that car there would be no fun even as a turbo its more of a 'bring out on weekends and for shows and dont leave it unattended' sort of show car than a real drivers car :P

bit gay to do all that to a non turbo in the first place though ive gotta say .. youd think he wouldve wanted turbo if only for the bov to go 'ptshhh' ;)

yea i'm looking for a Good Sr20de or Sr20Det OR Ca18det

i don't know what to get i think the Sr20 De wood b the best bet

I'm thinking of Going Auto cause I on L's and Auto is way easyer and i don't want to crash it and i'm Lest likey to crash a Auto

i only want it for like 1 year till i get good on the Road

MANUAL OR AUTO S13 SR20 something PM me

It has to not b trashed

Heh heh.

That thing is disgusintg.. makes me wanna puke.. sorry.

If you're getting an auto get a shitbox to learn to drive. Don't bother getting cars that aren't meant for auto cos you're only spending the extra money for no reason.

Almost everyone dings their first car so just get a crappy gemini or corolla and it will cost you little and get you from a - b .. if you stack it into a pole in the car park you won't cry. Then save up to get a better car.

My 2c.

i was thinking a Crapy Silvia i am going to get a Skyline in next 2 years if i play my Cards right i thought learning on a import wood b good and it helps me get a no claim with Just cars i want non turbo cause i don't think i can deal with a turbo seeing i Go too fast in mums 4L V6 lol

I think its arguably the most disgusting Silvia I have ever seen. Having said that, you obviously like the looks, and that's what matters.

As a first car though, I think its a mistake. Its obviously an attention getter, and is just asking for someone to either steal it, break into it, key it, or otherwise damage it. You will need comprehensive insurance, and I would think it might be difficult to insure with all the custom work.

LW.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...