Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

http://carsguide.news.com.au/news/story_pa...5E21822,00.html

Free Newsletter

Graham Tawse with his GT-R

1994 R32 Nissan Skyline GT-R

Owner: Graham Tawse

Purchase Price: $66,000

Build Price: $150,000

Engine: 2.6-litre single turbo; 671kW with race fuel, 633kW with pump fuel

Paint: Metallic black

Interior Features: DEFI gauges, Recaro interior, MOMO steering wheel

Exterior features: Autostyle quad headlights, carbon-fibre bonnet and boot lid

Monster muscle on track

Jaedene Hudson

28aug04

The new Skyline GT-R is still on track, assures Nissan Australia.

The return of the company's all-wheel-drive muscle car was announced last year at the 2003 Tokyo Motor Show and Nissan says the 2007 deadline has not changed.

The new GT-R will share the same platform as the company's two-door sports coupe – the 350Z.

Nissan says the new GT-R may not look a lot like concept designs that have been seen but can't confirm if the car will be revealed at next year's Tokyo Motor Show.

The company is sticking to its guns saying the car will be a global build which means production of both left and right-hand drives, which is good news for Aussie fans.

Whether it will end up here has still not been decided, Nissan saying that provided the business case is accepted it will be full steam ahead.

A big factor in the decision about whether the car will hit our shores will be its price.

It is expected to be well above $100,000 and if that is the case, well above other high performance all-wheel-drives in the market.

The classic "Godzilla" was expected to be on display at the Tokyo Motor Show last year.

It was also expected the car would be back in the showrooms by 2005 but Nissan boss Carlos Gohsn says he wanted to launch the car in Tokyo and as the show is bi-yearly, it only left 2005 or 2007.

The company's 2003/04 revival program placed too much pressure on engineering resources to push the GT-R ahead to a 2005 deadline.

He is, however, also adamant that the GT-R would be a global car.

"The previous car was just a Japanese car – this one is for the world."

Reach for the sky

It has a hood full of horses, but this hot GT-R has such good manners that a little old lady could drive it.

It might have more than 670kW and more gauges than you can poke a stick at, but this 1994 Nissan Skyline GT-R is so easy to drive, your grandma could take it to the shops.

Graham Tawse bought the car just three weeks ago from friend Dominique Russo – the owner of performance car modifying company Autostyle – and says it may be difficult to believe but this Nissan is easier to drive than a standard GT-R.

"As unbelievable as it may sound, with the power and handling that it has, it is so much smoother than a standard GT-R," he says. "A little old lady could drive it. It is that easy."

Tawse paid $66,000 for the car, trading in a standard GT-R.

Originally he thought of modifying his own GT-R but says: "You can't beat buying one that is already done."

Getting the car to a standard where it is so easy to drive was not easy.

Russo says it has taken many years to be able to tune and refine a car with so much power and still make it driveable.

But they have mastered it and were able to implement it on the GT-R. The whole car was transformed in just a few months.

"It has probably only been over the past three years that we have been able to tweak and tune a car so that it is so easy to drive," Russo says. "More than three years ago it was not possible to do."

Russo has owned Autostyle for about 10 years and everything from BMWs and Porsches to Ferraris and Hondas have been through the workshop, all with one aim in mind – more power and more individualism.

Tawse's GT-R is an R34. The engine was built in Japan and is worth more than $60,000 itself.

The GT-R was originally built by Russo as a promotional car and has been featured in many magazines and competitions.

The car has been chosen as one of six Australian finalists in the Need For Speed Global Max Challenge.

The competition, to celebrate the release of the Need For Speed Underground II virtual racing game later this year, is being run to find the best performance street car in the world.

Under the GT-R's bonnet is a 2.6-litre engine with a T88-34D single turbo and a mix of TRUST and HKS parts, which gives the car 671kW with racing fuel or 633kW with pump fuel. The car features a hi-tech clutch system that has three plates, giving a greater surface area without a lot of force on the pedal. Inside, the standard GT-R seats have been retrimmed with blue Recaro leather. The car features a Momo steering wheel and TRUST gear knob but what strikes you is the enormous DEFI gauges that stare you in the face from the dash.

The four gauges are worth close to $3000. They monitor engine temperature, oil temperature, boost and fuel pressure. They record all data, which can be played back.

The glovebox houses more high-tech gadgetry – the launch computer and a box that records how fast the injectors are working.

The interior would not be complete without a pumping stereo, an Alpine unit with twin Alpine V12 amps and Boston speakers doing the trick.

Russo says the car, which is worth more than $150,000, is "the pinnacle of modification and refinement ... it gets better fuel economy than a standard GT-R on pump fuel."

The car was resprayed in metallic black paint, a Nissan colour, and sits on 19-inch Traffic Star rims.

The front bumper was modified to incorporate the large intercooler and features Autostyle quad headlight conversion.

Nismo side-skirts have been added while the carbon-fibre bonnet and boot lip complete the exterior transformation.

Tawse says that while he would like to take it on the track at least once, it won't be used for racing. It will still be a feature at many car shows and has already been entered in the dyno comp at next year's Summernats.

Owning such a car has not yet sunk in for Tawse, who admits he still goes out to the garage "just to have a look".

The car came fourth in AutoSalon magazine's Street Car of the Year competition, hampered by a slipping clutch.

Autostyle's maroon GT-R "Daredevil" won.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/49940-interesting-read/
Share on other sites

I have a Video of that car from FDD1 doing a burnout while driving at over 120km/h up and over the bridge at Oran park. I think it had FLYBYE as its number plate. It was the most amazing car I have ever see drift.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/49940-interesting-read/#findComment-997661
Share on other sites

671kW with race fuel, 633kW with pump fuel

I love that comment...... doesnt Keir Wilsons car make 650ish kilowatts with its twin T67's.... could this pottentially be Australia's fastest GTR if it was set up for it :P:D:D:D and its also great to see that race fuel makes sod all of a difference in such an engine.... and pump fuel can make so much power as well..... wonder where he fuels up as i wouldnt mind using that servo from now on :(:D:D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/49940-interesting-read/#findComment-997690
Share on other sites

hahaha Pete you talking about all the oil throught out the engine bay at drift day?

have a read of the street car of the year story in Auto Salon magazine Brett.... apparently the engine that was/or still is in the car has a bad blow by problem and was spewing oil every where....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/49940-interesting-read/#findComment-997767
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 2 spots that my exhaust guy joined the 2 pipes together  Made a big difference. I'm now able to live with it. I can make it louder if I want by removing the HKS caps.
    • Hi all, considering clutch upgrade to support 1130 engine hp from 1650cc injectors on e50 at 85% duty cycle (1650 x (11.85/14.7) x 85%). Narrows down to these three as they can be converted to use gm 26 spline input shaft if I ever want to use transmission with that input shaft (orc1000f and r3c easy/cheap just change center hub; tr2cd pricier must change clutch discs). Pricing orc1000f similar to tr2cd, r3c about usd 200 pricier. Orc1000f triple plate 200mm. Tr2cd twin plate 215mm. R3c triple plate 215mm. Claimed max torque : orc 1000f 723 lbs ft; tr2cd 800 lbs ft; r3c 1100 lbs ft. Why orc1000f triple plate but claims lower max torque vs tr2cd twins? Is orc1000f underrated? Any info maxing out these clutches? Info on street/traffic driveability/pedal feel? Thank you for any info on them.
    • Some troubleshooting, connect up a timing light/gun with a proper ignition lead on coil 1. Hold the revs at 4~4500rpm and see if your timing is all over the shop, scattering off its tits. If so, there's a high chance your CAS is fked. But I read you have a Link ECU ready to go in, why not just skip all this and put that in - will make troubleshooting so much easier.  
    • Misfires when the car is fully warm are generally attributed to the coils (and/or the igniter, on cars with a separate igniter). They can stop working properly when they get hot for a number of reasons. Either electric/electronic, or from thermal expansion opening up gaps and allowing HV leakage. Seeing as you have replaced the coils, that could/should rule them out. But I wouldn't always assume so. Were the coils genuine? Or is there a chance you have bought some counterfeit Chinesium shit? Then we're back onto loom connections. They can fail when warm/hot for the same reasons. Inspections, cleaning of contact surfaces, ensuring that terminals are fully inserted, etc etc, are all justified. The same (heat effects) holds true for the other electrics and their connectors. AFM & CAS, primarily. If you try that Chinesium AFM, drive it around on low load until it is properly hot, but do'nt give it more load than you have to, except when you need to see if it will still miss. I'm dead serious about the untrustworthiness of the calibration of those copy AFMs. Injectors are unlikely to get hot unless the fuel is coming back around hot. You could try squirting them with compressed air or freeze spray to cool them back down to see if they are maybe the cause.
    • Alright, all the plugs looks good. Noticed that it starts to get bad when the car is up to temp, that's when things starts to misfire hard. next to do is Injector cleaning and such. Got in touch with a shop to do work on the injectors next Monday also help on diagnosis.
×
×
  • Create New...