Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys i probably could have posted a little earlier but, i didn't.

anyway i thought you might be interested in the results of a set of GT-SS turbos installed on a built engine.

mods as followed,

Tomei 260/9.15 cams

ported head

stainless manifolds

highflow piping (intercooler)

power fc

sard 700cc injectors

sard fuel rail

sard fuel reg

twin bocsh fuels pumps

twin fuel lines

os triple plate clutch

blitzs boost controller

splitfire coils

trust 100mm front mount

dual 3'' into single 3'' zorst

rebuilt engine with forged rods and jun pistons now 2628cc

jun oil pump

and all the other usual stuff that goes on with a complete build.

i know your all waiting for the answer but, we will be picking up the car tommorow.

as in monday.and then we have to run it in 15 psi or so for about 2000kms and then we will see what it can make.

question is how much power has been seen in australia with these turbos at the wheels in killer watts?

cheers i'll tell you what the car goes like and when it starts to boost in the next few days.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/50345-hks-gt-sss-installed/
Share on other sites

no you don't need the sard reg or fuel rail.

we did it as a precaution since you can lean out no. 6 cylinder with the standard fuel rail when your chasing big numbers (320KW atw or more)

just putting the injectors in and changing the intank pump will be fine for most cases.

Hi guys i probably could have posted a little earlier but, i didn't.

anyway i thought you might be interested in the results of a set of GT-SS turbos installed on a built engine.

mods as followed,

Tomei 260/9.15 cams

ported head

stainless manifolds

highflow piping (intercooler)

power fc  

sard 700cc injectors

sard fuel rail

sard fuel reg

twin bocsh fuels pumps

twin fuel lines

os triple plate clutch

blitzs boost controller

splitfire coils

trust 100mm front mount

dual 3'' into single 3'' zorst

rebuilt engine with forged rods and jun pistons now 2628cc

jun oil pump

and all the other usual stuff that goes on with a complete build.

i know your all waiting for the answer but, we will be picking up the car tommorow.

as in monday.and then we have to run it in 15 psi or so for about 2000kms and then we will see what it can make.

question is how much power has been seen in australia with these turbos at the wheels in killer watts?

cheers i'll tell you what the car goes like and when it starts to boost in the next few days.

Have ya done those 2000 kays yet???

Get that dyno graph posted!

hi fellas we got the car back dismorning.

it's running very very rich to the point were we might take it back to get it leaned up a bit.

tonight when i was following the car home it threw a couple of nice flames.

the turbos are absolutely mad they were spinning for about 35 seconds after the car had stopped.

can't wait to seee what tey start spoiling up at once there tuned.

and no the car is in such a consevative tune i have no idea what they spoil up at the moment because its so rich.

i'll post a new thead once we get some more results out of the car.

catch ya!

Well, I might just hop in on this thread and post that I got my car tuned today...

11psi - 230awkw

16psi - 260awkw

20psi - 304awkw

22psi - 316awkw

We could have turned it up more... Probably till about 24-25psi maximum before they completely run out of puff... But I'm having boost controller issues. At 11psi, it holds boost fine, but it starts to fall over at 16psi, and by 22psi, it's fluctuating 2psi from 20 to 22psi...

Once we get the boost controller sorted, it should make a teeny bit more power... But for the moment, 316.3awkw @ 20/22psi

Merli - nice one mate.

When does boost start and when do you get full boost ?

Cheers,

Hey Roy - you wanna shit yourself ?? Try 330 at the rears only - with std GTS-t brakes - last turn before EC straight - 3rd gear - 25 PSI, sideways, then overtaking a GT3, redline 4th, near redline 5th (was looking at the road), then trying to slow down for turn 1...... take turn 1 without semi slicks and a GT3 trying to overtake you !

F.M.D.

How did you find the SBC ID in your white car? Would have thought you got one of them for the GT-R!

The SBC-ID III in my white car was absolutely perfect. But I thought I'd give Aussie innovation a run and see if they can truely come up with a world-class boost controller............ Things aren't looking up for them, but I'm willing to give Turbosmart a chance to sort it out ;)

Roy: I'm happy I guess. It's what I expected, so there weren't any big surprises with the power level... They're only tiny little turbos, so I knew they'd produce power somewhere between 300-320awkw... As I said, it's what I expected. I should be able to extract around about 330awkw out of them once all boost controller issues are sorted out. More than enough for track work IMHO.

Now it's time to attack the car with weight reduction :P

B-Man: Boost starts to build IMMEDIATELY as soon as you hit the throttle from 2000rpm onwards...

As for when boost hits and peaks, I'll have to get back to you on that after the boost controller issues have been sorted out :P

Nice :P

I might be getting similar problems with my e-boost. I should show you my dyno with revs and boost plotted. Doughy thinks it might be my compressor - but i think there there is another restriction somewhere - either EBC or in the Exhaust somewhere. But that is just my gut feel. I get not more power after 21 PSI (peak power) and boost goes up to 25 psi but then comes back down to 21 - weird.

Anyway - I bet you are having fun - that's a lot of useable revs

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...