Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am about to get a Nissan Stagea RS4. When it gets here I want to put a decent stereo in. I'll have about $4000 to spend but I have no idea what to get.

Sound clarity is most important. I won't be entering any sound offs or anything.

I want all Alpine gear I reckon.

I'll replace my six standard speakers and buy two 10" maybe 12" subs. What kind of speakers, subs and amps would people recommend? The car has a decent head unit in at the moment so I'm not too worried about that.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/51059-what-to-spend-4000-on/
Share on other sites

alpine are very good but im not a big fan of their speakers or subs, dont get me wrong, they are still very good but for the money you pay i think you could much better.

if it were me i would go with focal speakers, they are absolutely incredible and arent to expensive, alpine deck and amp, and different subs.

but in my oppinion the most important thing about buying car audio, is to buy it on sale lol, pices drop through the floor when stores have slaes, you can save sooo much money!!!

Cheers. I'll certainly keep that in mind. Do you think sound deadining is worth worrying about? Like I said I won't be entering any comps I just want it clear for my ears.

sound deadening is worth every cent.

if you are prepared to do it yourself $100 worth of sound deadening in your doors will make a massive difference to the sound quality. this relies on you pulling the door trims off and installing it yourself. it is unlikely to take longer than 2-3 hrs (so allow a whole afternoon just in case). i think most installers will charge about $250-$300 per door.....

bear in mind if you spend $100 extra on your deck, splits, sub, amp and cables i defy you to hear any difference.

i have sound deadened both doors and under the back seat and wheel arches, i used 2 sheets of serenity max, it weighs 4kg/m each sheet was 1.3x1m.

the biggest sound difference was the doors.

if you lived in Sydney i would help you do it.

Uh oh conflicting opinions. Oh well I've got plenty of time to think about it. The way things are going by the time I get my car fuel will be $15 a litre and everyone will riding around on electric scooters.

I am about to get a Nissan Stagea RS4. When it gets here I want to put a decent stereo in. I'll have about $4000 to spend but I have no idea what to get.

Sound clarity is most important. I won't be entering any sound offs or anything.  

I want all Alpine gear I reckon.  

I'll replace my six standard speakers and buy two 10" maybe 12" subs. What kind of speakers, subs and amps would people recommend? The car has a decent head unit in at the moment so I'm not too worried about that.

i reckon you should spend your $4000 on some souped up rollerblades.

Veilside r33 recommended Focal speakers and I would have to say I definately agree with him there. Alpine speakers, unless you're buying their top of the line stuff are generally quite average. Focal are unbelievable, especially for the price, and mine sound easily twice as good as my friends alpine typer splits. I also like Boston Rallys and JL audio speakers.

Alpine amps are good, but my money would be on an Eclipse amp. If you're hell bent on Alpine however they are a good amp choice nonetheless.

With the headunit, I like Eclipse or Clarion (I have the clarion dxz746mp). Alpine are also good but for SQ the other two are the picks.

Oh and sound deaden your door. I was quoted about $300 bucks for for them to do both front doors so at $150 a door its affordable. It'll make your midbass much better and stop road noise affecting your tweeter's detail.

With subs, I'd go Pioneer (or DLS)! My friend's alpine type r sub sounds shithouse compared to his brothers (much) cheaper Rockford sub (which I though was shithouse before he bought the pioneer class d to power it), and if you read a lot of local car mags Pioneer subs tend to come first in the SQ marks. Pioneer's sound good when you give them a lot of power to play with, and that includes their $250 subs and upwards. They sell ready made subs in boxes too, the amp for a sub tends to be more important imo. DLS are good but generally more expensive and hard to source.

Oh and make sure a reputable shop does the fitting. Proper installation makes a big difference. Don't let your 'mate who knows how to do it' touch anything!

my 2c, hope it helps

  • 2 weeks later...

This may help-

http://www.fastfoursforumscarclub.com/temp...studios/faq.asp

System Cost: $2000

Source Unit(s): Alpine CDA-9827 / Pioneer DEH-P5650MP / Clarion DXZ746MP

Front Speaker(s): Boston RC620 / Diamond M361 / Hertz HSK 165 / Rainbow CMX 265 Kick / Morel Pulse / Phoenix Gold ZR6.5 Comp / Vibe ST-60 / Eton Pro-160X

Sub(s): JL Audio 12W0-4 / Image Dynamics ID12V.3 / Diamond M312 / Hertx HX 300 / Boston GS1204 / Phoenix Gold R12D / Digital Designs 2012 / Vibe BlackAir-12

Amplifier(s): Audison SRx3 / Phoenix Gold R8.0:4

Cable: Stinger / Phoenix Gold / Audison

Deadening: G-Spot Serenity Max / Stinger Roadkill / Dynamat Pro

System Cost: $5000

Source Unit(s): Alpine CDA-9833 / Pioneer DEH-P7550MP / Clarion DXZ946MP

Front Speaker(s): Kicker RS6 / Boston Pro6.5 / Diamond M661 / Focal Polyglass 165V2 / Hertz HSK 1600 / Rainbow CS 265 Profi Vanadium Kick / Morel Dotech Mk II / Phoenix Gold X6.5 / Eton RS-160

Sub(s): JL Audio 12W3 / Image Dynamics IDQ12D4.V2 / Diamond M312 / Focal 33A / Hertx HX380 / Phoenix Gold X12D / Digital Designs 2512 / Vibe Space-12

Amplifier(s): 2 x ARC Audio 2100XXK / 2 x Audison SRx2S / Zapco 350 & Zapco 500M / Boston GT20 & Boston GT22 / Tru-Tech T-4.65 & Tru-Tech T-2.100 / Phoenix Gold R4.0:2 & Phoenix Gold R5.0:1

Cable: Stinger / Phoenix Gold / Audison

Deadening: G-Spot Serenity Max / Stinger Roadkill / Dynamat Pro

Thanks guys you've been a great help. I was thinking about buying all my parts myself off Ebay so I can get them a bit cheaper. How many and what type of amps would I need? I reckon I'll just replace my factory speakers with better ones and have a couple of subs (10" or 12") in the boot. I realise it's probably a difficult question but any help at all but any help at all would be awesome. ICE 12 I've seen the IVA D300 on Ebay for $1500 they're normallly about $4000.

dont buy it off ebay and get it all in seperate bits, waste of time and effort.

take the car to a good car audio dealer and say build me a stereo

for 2k you should be able to get

1 x headunit

1 x pair of front splits

1 x pair of rear coax speakers

2 x amps

2 x subs

all installed and tuned for 2k easily. my stereo in my skyline is

1 x headunit (alpine cda9807)

1 x pair of front splits (alpine type r 6" or 5")

1 x pair of rear coax speakers (alpine 6" unsure of model)

2 x amps (1 for front spilits and rear spakers, 1 for subs)

2 x subs (apline 12" type s subs in a box)

best 2000 ive ever spent, that was installed took about 2.5 days

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...