Jump to content
SAU Community

What to spend $4000 on?


burkey22
 Share

Recommended Posts

I am about to get a Nissan Stagea RS4. When it gets here I want to put a decent stereo in. I'll have about $4000 to spend but I have no idea what to get.

Sound clarity is most important. I won't be entering any sound offs or anything.

I want all Alpine gear I reckon.

I'll replace my six standard speakers and buy two 10" maybe 12" subs. What kind of speakers, subs and amps would people recommend? The car has a decent head unit in at the moment so I'm not too worried about that.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

alpine are very good but im not a big fan of their speakers or subs, dont get me wrong, they are still very good but for the money you pay i think you could much better.

if it were me i would go with focal speakers, they are absolutely incredible and arent to expensive, alpine deck and amp, and different subs.

but in my oppinion the most important thing about buying car audio, is to buy it on sale lol, pices drop through the floor when stores have slaes, you can save sooo much money!!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cheers. I'll certainly keep that in mind. Do you think sound deadining is worth worrying about? Like I said I won't be entering any comps I just want it clear for my ears.

sound deadening is worth every cent.

if you are prepared to do it yourself $100 worth of sound deadening in your doors will make a massive difference to the sound quality. this relies on you pulling the door trims off and installing it yourself. it is unlikely to take longer than 2-3 hrs (so allow a whole afternoon just in case). i think most installers will charge about $250-$300 per door.....

bear in mind if you spend $100 extra on your deck, splits, sub, amp and cables i defy you to hear any difference.

i have sound deadened both doors and under the back seat and wheel arches, i used 2 sheets of serenity max, it weighs 4kg/m each sheet was 1.3x1m.

the biggest sound difference was the doors.

if you lived in Sydney i would help you do it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Uh oh conflicting opinions. Oh well I've got plenty of time to think about it. The way things are going by the time I get my car fuel will be $15 a litre and everyone will riding around on electric scooters.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am about to get a Nissan Stagea RS4. When it gets here I want to put a decent stereo in. I'll have about $4000 to spend but I have no idea what to get.

Sound clarity is most important. I won't be entering any sound offs or anything.  

I want all Alpine gear I reckon.  

I'll replace my six standard speakers and buy two 10" maybe 12" subs. What kind of speakers, subs and amps would people recommend? The car has a decent head unit in at the moment so I'm not too worried about that.

i reckon you should spend your $4000 on some souped up rollerblades.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Veilside r33 recommended Focal speakers and I would have to say I definately agree with him there. Alpine speakers, unless you're buying their top of the line stuff are generally quite average. Focal are unbelievable, especially for the price, and mine sound easily twice as good as my friends alpine typer splits. I also like Boston Rallys and JL audio speakers.

Alpine amps are good, but my money would be on an Eclipse amp. If you're hell bent on Alpine however they are a good amp choice nonetheless.

With the headunit, I like Eclipse or Clarion (I have the clarion dxz746mp). Alpine are also good but for SQ the other two are the picks.

Oh and sound deaden your door. I was quoted about $300 bucks for for them to do both front doors so at $150 a door its affordable. It'll make your midbass much better and stop road noise affecting your tweeter's detail.

With subs, I'd go Pioneer (or DLS)! My friend's alpine type r sub sounds shithouse compared to his brothers (much) cheaper Rockford sub (which I though was shithouse before he bought the pioneer class d to power it), and if you read a lot of local car mags Pioneer subs tend to come first in the SQ marks. Pioneer's sound good when you give them a lot of power to play with, and that includes their $250 subs and upwards. They sell ready made subs in boxes too, the amp for a sub tends to be more important imo. DLS are good but generally more expensive and hard to source.

Oh and make sure a reputable shop does the fitting. Proper installation makes a big difference. Don't let your 'mate who knows how to do it' touch anything!

my 2c, hope it helps

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
At the moment it's got a Kenwood CD/MD Head Unit but I want to get an Alpine IVA-D300 and Ipod interface ASAP.

I am getting the same Alpine IVA-D300 as my Stagea came with am Alpine MD player. I will then add things as I can aford them.

:) ICE

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This may help-

http://www.fastfoursforumscarclub.com/temp...studios/faq.asp

System Cost: $2000

Source Unit(s): Alpine CDA-9827 / Pioneer DEH-P5650MP / Clarion DXZ746MP

Front Speaker(s): Boston RC620 / Diamond M361 / Hertz HSK 165 / Rainbow CMX 265 Kick / Morel Pulse / Phoenix Gold ZR6.5 Comp / Vibe ST-60 / Eton Pro-160X

Sub(s): JL Audio 12W0-4 / Image Dynamics ID12V.3 / Diamond M312 / Hertx HX 300 / Boston GS1204 / Phoenix Gold R12D / Digital Designs 2012 / Vibe BlackAir-12

Amplifier(s): Audison SRx3 / Phoenix Gold R8.0:4

Cable: Stinger / Phoenix Gold / Audison

Deadening: G-Spot Serenity Max / Stinger Roadkill / Dynamat Pro

System Cost: $5000

Source Unit(s): Alpine CDA-9833 / Pioneer DEH-P7550MP / Clarion DXZ946MP

Front Speaker(s): Kicker RS6 / Boston Pro6.5 / Diamond M661 / Focal Polyglass 165V2 / Hertz HSK 1600 / Rainbow CS 265 Profi Vanadium Kick / Morel Dotech Mk II / Phoenix Gold X6.5 / Eton RS-160

Sub(s): JL Audio 12W3 / Image Dynamics IDQ12D4.V2 / Diamond M312 / Focal 33A / Hertx HX380 / Phoenix Gold X12D / Digital Designs 2512 / Vibe Space-12

Amplifier(s): 2 x ARC Audio 2100XXK / 2 x Audison SRx2S / Zapco 350 & Zapco 500M / Boston GT20 & Boston GT22 / Tru-Tech T-4.65 & Tru-Tech T-2.100 / Phoenix Gold R4.0:2 & Phoenix Gold R5.0:1

Cable: Stinger / Phoenix Gold / Audison

Deadening: G-Spot Serenity Max / Stinger Roadkill / Dynamat Pro

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks guys you've been a great help. I was thinking about buying all my parts myself off Ebay so I can get them a bit cheaper. How many and what type of amps would I need? I reckon I'll just replace my factory speakers with better ones and have a couple of subs (10" or 12") in the boot. I realise it's probably a difficult question but any help at all but any help at all would be awesome. ICE 12 I've seen the IVA D300 on Ebay for $1500 they're normallly about $4000.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

dont buy it off ebay and get it all in seperate bits, waste of time and effort.

take the car to a good car audio dealer and say build me a stereo

for 2k you should be able to get

1 x headunit

1 x pair of front splits

1 x pair of rear coax speakers

2 x amps

2 x subs

all installed and tuned for 2k easily. my stereo in my skyline is

1 x headunit (alpine cda9807)

1 x pair of front splits (alpine type r 6" or 5")

1 x pair of rear coax speakers (alpine 6" unsure of model)

2 x amps (1 for front spilits and rear spakers, 1 for subs)

2 x subs (apline 12" type s subs in a box)

best 2000 ive ever spent, that was installed took about 2.5 days

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wow mate that's huge, congrats. Glad you found better people to deal with and all seems like it's going in the right direction.
    • The best setting for street is what gives the best tyres wear for your driving style Different tyres like different camber You want the whole surface of the tread to wear flat, if the inside of the tyre is wearing more than the outside reduce camber settings For toe, have the minimum amount to give the handling you want Caster, from my experience if you can adjust it, is as much as you can get without clearance issues And while -2.5° of camber on the front might work well with good tyres for "spirited" cornering, it may be too much for a street car Lots of front camber will effect braking Just like to much rear camber will effect rear traction (rwd), and braking  When I set my Bogan Cruise Ship (VX SS) up for drags I tested how much tyre width I actually had in the rear by doing a hard launch (skid), it originally had -1.5° in the rear, and you could see that the tyre wasn't putting down alot of the tread, I maxed out the settings to get as little camber as I could with the OEM adjustment and some camber bushings and got it down to just under -0.5° with 0 toe, that gave me a fair bit more "rubber on the road" and helped it hook up for my 60' and my 0-100kph And with -1.5° in the front the big old boat handles fine on the street and my tyre wear is nice and even on both front and rear tyres (currently Hankook RS4's) As for semi slicks at the track, again, it depends on alot more IRT the suspension, the track and lots of other things, so, I'll leave that up to people who have more experience, especially with a AWD In saying this, street settings are pretty easy, just look at the tyre wear Meh, Necro thread, it's late at night, and I has been drinking beer
    • Thought I'd give an update. There needs to be scarce details in some areas due to ongoing discussions. Here's the journey of trying to make the booked registration appointment (again). Sent a complaint to Car Inspect outlining the concerns and made some demands. Went to a service center in Geelong, got assaulted with bullshit items on the RWC, as you know. Tried to quote $2.5k AND wanted a structural report Only seemed to be one place around Geelong that does them, they demand $495 just to end up telling me it's f**ked, at least $11k to fix and tried to sell me his own Skyline in the process (bro, wtf?) Started stressing about what I'm supposed to do with this possible pile of steel. Awaiting that, I was sent an angel friend who works in Melbourne and knows real mechanics and body shops.  They laughed at the reported quotes (don't get work done in Geelong) Car underwent some front surgery and brought back better They then sent it to the mechanics for RWC Registration appointment is two days away at this point. Mechanics pointed out two issues: driver's seat and shocks - that's it. He offered couple options and I chose coilovers. Frantically I scoured the jungle realm that is Facebook Marketplace (again). Found what looks to be a decent Series 1 seat actually - $100 Guy is friendly, offers to bring the seat with a colleague who's heading to Geelong (thanks man, that was cool) Seat arrived, looks good. Throw it in my car and drive to Melbourne and drop it to mechanic T-1 day, mechanic reckons job will be done for the fronts only, gets it done by 4PM Mechanic heads to get the coil-overs that night as a favour to help me make the appointment Get driven to Melbourne, drove the car back - RWC Unlocked! ✅ VicRoads tomorrow, the goal is close now. 🙂
    • Gtr are still available through the heritage program but don’t have the wiring 
×
×
  • Create New...