Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I think this is the new craze because everytime i pick up a car mag i see at least one car with a flatmount or V-mounted setup. At first i thought this was to reduce piping and save space, but the lack of airflow would not make it worthwhile although its true that the engine would recieve better cooling. what do you all think of this setup?? i think ill stick to a front mount..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/51234-v-mounting-intercooler/
Share on other sites

the lack of airflow would not make it worthwhile

There is a curve piece that you put between the front bar opening and the cooler. so that the air going through the front bar gets directed up through the cooler then out through the vented bonnet.

would actually have better flow than fmic because theres nothing behind it blocking the air.

also for shorter piping too.

Ahh "V" mount, actually a ">" mount, with the intercooler at the top (usually) and the radiator at the bottom. The idea is that they both get fresh air, unlike an FMIC where the radiator gets air already heated by the intercooler. The intercooler exhausts out through the bonnet and the radiator exhaust (as per standard) around the engine and out under the firewall. It also shortens the intercooler pipework considerably, in fact if you do it right you can almost mount the intercooer straight onto the turbo and the inlet plenum.

Usually to mount them in the ">" formation you need;

1. to remove the radiator support panel

2. a bonnet with a large vent

3. a suitabe intercooler

4. a suitable radiator with special radiator hoses

5. a radiator water header tank (to get the air out, as the radiator is mounted lower than the engine)

6. many hours of fabricating brackets, mounts, pipes, ducting as nothing would be off the shelf.

Have I turned you away yet? :rofl:

Have you looked at using one at all SK, is there real benefit????

The SuperTourer uses a similar concept for its water, engine oil, transmission oil and engine air inlet. They are all staged so that each one gets fresh air ie; not preheated by another cooler. The V8Supercar is similar but not as sophisticated. Works a charm but it is really a pain in the ass to engineer and fabricate, and it makes simple maintenance a real chore. Like try changing a radiator hose :Bang:

In an extreme racing situation it is certainly worth doing, but on a road car? Personally I think it's more for "rice" than anything else. :)

the idea of it is that it gets better air flow so it couldnt by its very nature suffer from heat soak.

In a race application maybe so, because your not stopping.

But out of interest, what about say normal city driving, stop start etc? Would it not have more potential to heat up then? Or is this a problem anyway as the pipes themselfs heat up?

I dont know, hence asking the question.

In a race application maybe so, because your not stopping.

But out of interest, what about say normal city driving, stop start etc?  Would it not have more potential to heat up then?  Or is this a problem anyway as the pipes themselfs heat up?

I dont know, hence asking the question.

Without airflow it would be a waste of time, the hot air from the radiator goes straight up into the intercooler. With a front mount thta simply doesn't happen as the engine fan draws the radiator hot air away from the FMIC. Which brings me to the next point, where do you put the fans?

as far as the intercooler is concerned the V setup is better as hot air rises, and all the hot air will go out the top of the bonnet wherre there's a vent above the IC. So even while the car's stopped, theoretically it should be better or at the least the same as a FMIC.

as far as the intercooler is concerned the V setup is better as hot air rises, and all the hot air will go out the top of the bonnet wherre there's a vent above the IC. So even while the car's stopped, theoretically it should be better or at the least the same as a FMIC.

Yep, but the hot air comes up from the radiator and goes through the intercooler and out the bonnet (ie; hot air rises) On its way though the hot air heats up the intercooler. That never happens with a FMIC, the radiator is behind the intercooler and the engine or electric fan sucks the hot air from the radiator, away from the intercooler.

In a > mount in traffic or stationary, the intercooler will quickly get to 90 degrees, which is the temperature of the air coming out of the radiator. It will cool down once you get moving, that why it is an OK setup in a race car. But a waste of time and money in a road car.

Oh and you should see the damage if you have a slight front end tap, makes a real effenn mess. :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...