Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 GTR ABS & 4WD Warning Lights

CONRAD
 Share

Recommended Posts

CONRAD Community Regular

CONRAD

Posted
Posted

Just recently, my R32 gtr every so often displays the ABS and the 4WD warning lights on the dash.. and when so, I know the ATTESSA system is definitely disabled and I"ve only got torque going to the rear wheels. Has anyone experienced this problem before or know how to rectify it?

I don't know why it has all of a sudden started to randomly do this, hot weather? ..I'm clutching at straws and have no idea. Perhaps a fuse is loose? But for both systems to go down suggests a computer problem. I am running a Microtech MTX-12 ECU.. and having only recently bought the car a few months ago I'm not aware if this is a piggy back sytem or outright ECU.

Help please!?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/51307-r32-gtr-abs-4wd-warning-lights/
Share on other sites
Amaru Veteran

Amaru

Posted
Posted

Possibly a fault with the ATTESA system, wether it be low fluid or something else. When the lights come on, pull over, dont turn the car off and pop the boot. Under the rear parcel tray is a silver box with a small led light in it which will be flashing. Wait till it stops for a few seconds then it will start flashing again. Count the number of long flashes and short flashes and it will give you a code (e.g 3 long flashes and 7 short flashes = 37 -- I think thats how it goes from memory, not 100% sure but it will flash you a code). Once you get the code I am pretty sure someone posted up here a list of the fault codes, if not download the R32 manual and it lists the codes in there. Check what code you were given against the list, then it will give you an indication of whats going wrong.

The most common problem is fluid in the attesa resevoir gets too low. In the boot on the right hand side theres a trimmed panel you can remove and the pumps behind this. When the car is running the fluid should be between the minimum and maximum lines on the bottle. If its low go to a Nissan dealer and pickup some Nissan "special power steering fluid" (also called Nissan Matic D), its about $13 from memory and top it up (or if youre super keen, flush the whole system and refill it all).

rmc02 Apprentice

rmc02

Posted
Posted

I had the exact same problem. I then after a while had my ABS really playing up. Brakes would momentarily (1 or 2 secs) go hard and have zero braking.

I took it too many places and no one could work out the problem. I finally found it after much trouble. Check on the outside of the rear diff that none of the dust covers (metal) which protect the speed sensor indicators (hope I have described this properly) have come loose. If they have they can momentarily block the speed sensor from getting the signal and both the ABS and 4wd system use these speed sensors and get totally confused.

Hope its as simple as this.

  • 3 years later...
ari666 Newbie

ari666

Posted
Posted

hi, this is my first post so bear with me;

my GTR just did the same thing this weekend and the flash code indicated the 'g' sensor. however my owners manual is a poor scan of the original and i cant make heads nor tails of where it is located,

anyone know its whereabouts?

fanx

Player_Hater Proficient

Player_Hater

Posted
Posted

i had the same problems when i first picked up my gtr.... so i had the attessa fluids topped up and the hicas bleed, changed the battery and bobs your uncle... havent had any problems since.. and for ari666 ... the g sensor is exactly where djr81 stated.. just unscrew your centre console and take it off and you will find a goldish box (wif a white tab and a red led light in the middle of it) situated next to your hand break lever ... thats the g sensor.. if its gone screwy you might want to just simply change it...and if you do.. go to the wreckers to find 1 as there relatively cheap as its not a sort after item as there pretty expensive from nissan

GTS4WD Grand Master

GTS4WD

Posted
Posted

Check the fuse in the little kicker panel next to the steering collum.

There is a diagram on the back of the pannel that will tell you which fuse is which.. Its a long shot.. I know.. but that fuse controls both..

Its worth a go..

  • 1 month later...
GTR_NUTZ Collaborator

GTR_NUTZ

Posted
Posted

I have a similar problem or the same problem..

I got R32 GTR. I start it, and after a couple seconds the 4WD light comes on. (It doen't happen all the time. some times the car is normal) I thought it might be the camber of the raod giving the senser in the ATTESSA bottle a faulty reading, so I topped it up and I still have the same problem. Even starting the car on a flat serface it sometimes comes on.

If I start the car and immediately drive foward and back a couple of times just a few feet it SOMETIMES stas off and I'm all good. I'll check the speed sensor thing the other guy was talking about.

My guess is that its electrical and it really pissing me off.

Any one got any more I dears?

Cheers,

JUSTIN.

  • 6 years later...
mcjiuman Newbie

mcjiuman

Posted
Posted

I know this is a real old post but I really need help.

My ABS and 4WD lights come on occassionally, especially after a while of driving and in warm weather.

My ATTESA silvcer box shows 4 flashes, meaning the rear left wheel speed-sensor fault? I'm tihnking to try clean the speed sensor trick

This is a silly question, but can anyone please upload a photo showing where I can find the wheel speed sensor?

Can I do it using a wheel jack? Thanks guys

mcjiuman Newbie

mcjiuman

Posted
Posted

I have really tried searching for this hence I have found the fault codes and possible fixes such as cleaning the speed sensors, bleeding the HICAS fluid, check g sensor voltage etc.

But I really can't find a photo showing which is the wheel speed sensor...

A photo would help greatly pleeeeeease

mcjiuman Newbie

mcjiuman

Posted
Posted

Thanks for the help guys! I think I have found them but they are an ass to clean without a proper car hoist..

For those who may have been struggling like me, below are photos (they are not located a bit different to other cars and do not come up in the first 2 rows of google :P)

11169820_10152935117218985_3091519858594

11169790_10152935117213985_5875011762479

  • 2 years later...
Joel_Boisvert Rookie

Joel_Boisvert

Posted
Posted

Hey guys, I've got a 1990 R32 GTR and I have similar issues. My ABS and 4WD lights come on right away when turning the car on and they don't go away until the car is shut off. There are no Attessa ecu codes flashing. The fluid level is perfect with no air bubbles in the reservoir. The fuses are all fine. I'm pulling my hair out over it. Just looking for guidance at this point. Thanks in advance! 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      7 Speed Auto transmission fluid change (Skyline, Q50, Q60, Fuga, Q70, A62 Titan and probably heaps of others including Navara...)

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, Step 3, if you need to remove the valve body, either to replace it, the TCM, or to do a more complete drain.  First, you need to disconnect the TCM input wires, they are about half way up the transmission on the drivers side. One plug and the wires are out of the way, but there is also a spring clip that stops the socket from sliding back into the transmission. On my car the spring clip was easy to get, but the socket was really stuck in the o-ring of the transmission housing and took some.....persuasion. You can see both the plug to remove (first) and the spring clip (second) in this pic Incidentally, right next to the plug, you can see where the casting has allowance for a dispstick/filler which Nissan decided not to provide. there is a cap held on with a 6mm head bolt that you can remove to overfill it (AMS recommend a 1.5l overfill). Final step before the big mess, remove the speed sensor that is clipped to the valve body at the rear of the box.  Then removal of the Valve Body. For this the USDM Q50 workshop manual has a critical diagram: There are a billion bolts visible. Almost all of them do not need to be removed, just the 14 shown on the diagram. Even so, I both removed one extra, and didn't check which length bolt came from which location (more on that later....). Again it is worth undoing the 4 corners first, but leaving them a couple of turns in to hold the unit up....gravity is not your friend here and trans oil will be going everywhere. Once the corners are loose but still in remove all the other 10 bolts, then hold the valve body up with 1 hand while removing the final 4. Then, everything just comes free easily, or like in my case you start swearing because that plug is stuck in the casing. Done, the valve body and TCM are out
    • Duncan
      7 Speed Auto transmission fluid change (Skyline, Q50, Q60, Fuga, Q70, A62 Titan and probably heaps of others including Navara...)

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, so if you are either going for the bigger fluid change or are changing the valve body which includes the Transmission Control Module (TCM), first you should have both a new gasket 31397-1XJ0A and a torque wrench that can work down to 8Nm (very low, probably a 1/4 drive one). You can probably get by without either, but I really didn't want to pull it all apart together due to a leak. First, you now need that big oil pan. The transmission pan is 450 long x 350 wide, and it will probably leak on all sides, so get ready for a mess. There are 24x 6mm headed bolts holding the pan on. I undid the 2 rear corners, then screwed those bolts back in a couple of turns to let the pan go low at that end, then removed all the middle bolts on each side. Then, undo the front corner bolts slowly while holding the pan up, and 80% of the fluid will head out the rear. From there, remove the remaining bolts and the pan is off. You can see it is still dripping oil absolutely everywhere...it dripped all night.... I got another couple of litres when I removed the pan, and then another few when I removed the valve body - all up another 4l on top of the 3 already dropped in step 1.
    • Black_CSR
      Wheel Sizes & Offsets For Skylines

      By Black_CSR · Posted

      Yeh I think i'll message an old contact i had for ages that manages his own tyre shop now.. n tell him what i want n work with him before ordering..  Got this 17x9 +30 Driftteks on 245/45/17 PSR Drag Radials on the rear.. They fit well - for your reference in future - Rear guards  have been lipped in & minimal to non flaring of the rear Gaurds.    
    • Kinkstaah
      Wheel Sizes & Offsets For Skylines

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      If only it were that easy! I also needed to remove seats, shocks, brake calipers, send my car through a fence, and use measuring and ended up guessing because I didn't remove seats, shocks and brake calipers. It can be hard sometimes Can be a little more complex than 'just measure' if you want to truly measure the entire wheel through all of it's suspension travel. But if you aren't going for every last mm then yeah, you can check the space you currently have and guesstimate.
    • GTSBoy
      Wheel Sizes & Offsets For Skylines

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If you own a car, and it has wheels on it, and you know the offset of those wheels, and you have a measuring device, you have everything you need to work out if other wheels will fit.
×
×
  • Create New...