Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

get your fuel pump checked asap then - a dyno run should be able to determine if the car is running lean and the fuel pump needs replacing or if its not that it may show what else is wrong.

The reason we think my engine blew was because i was driving around on a dodgy fuel pump without knowing it for quite sometime.

  • Replies 54
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

hey dude my old line did this about 3 weeks after i sold it to a mate of mine

turned out after everything it went through....the cat was bashed to crap and everything fell out... we re-installed it as a TEST ONLY *cough*

and the car had new life again... so get a high flow cat or do the same TEST

also afm on his was maxing out...so in went the z32 etc and walla more new life... very weird stuff considering it ran fine for soooo long

but yeah it picked up the 50kw or so at the wheels that it has lost previously

Dont check your fuel pump, get rid of that stock piece of crap and get a Bosch 044 600HP fuel pump. Should do the trick. Dont think a BOV would cause a problem like that, BOV's are more common to staling...

I can't believe you're talking like that Driver.

Take it to Steve or someone over there who knows what they're doing and get them to fix it. Sure, it might cost you a few hunji but imagine how many months of pleasure you will be missing out on if you don't drive or drive it like it is now until you go os.

Also write down you kms and litres and get some figures for how many Litres per 100kms your car is doing. That will help you figure out what is normal and what is not. I thought mine was broken but it turns out is was just my lead foot. (I am a compulsive fanger)

haha abo bob,

ive got a cold atm - im very unhappy and thinking negative :(

i wouldnt mind getting a replacement pump and a cheap safc for temp use untill i can afford a pfc.

I have been driving my dads berlina around - god damn it uses less than 1/2 as much fuel as i use in mine - ive been driving for over a week and its just under 1/2 way! - i would of filled up by now 4 sure.

i just realised the r34s dont have one of those km timer things like the r33's u just have to count off the odm. Knowing me ill get it totaly wrong.

"i just realised the r34s dont have one of those km timer things like the r33's u just have to count off the odm. Knowing me ill get it totaly wrong.

Hi Driver,

Should be a push button on the dash next to rpm/speedo that allows you to toggle between odometer/trip A/trip B readings, to reset push and hold button, i use trip A for per tank kms and trip B for oil changes...hope that helps

michael

engine mods i have - full exhaust, fmic, ebc, apexi pod + cai, bov.

Hi Driver, looking at the mods, you have no method of real tuning and R34 GTT's have very strict engine protection built into the ECU. I would never expect t to achieve a good result without some tuning, once I had done the usual bolt on mods. You really need to think about what you are going to do about it, SAFC or Power FC would be my choices. It has been my experiecne that you spend more money on fuel than you could save by a bit of A/F ratio tuning.

My recommendation, get the tuning device (SAFC or PFC) put the car on the dyno and run through the usual checks, that will tell you what is holding it back. Fuel pressure test under load will identify fuel pump problems, A/F ratios can be fixed with tuning, timing light checks for ignition etc etc

The very SECOND mod I did with our R34 GTT was a Power FC with Boost Control Kit, obviously a turbo back exhaust was the first. We had ~200 rwkw with just those two mods and tuning. It now has hi flow turbo, Tomei 260 cams, POD, heat shield, CAI, alloy inlet (yep, they do suck closed), Tomei fuel pump, R34 GTR intercooler, injectors, Z32 AFM and makes 265 rwkw.

You work it out for yourself......

PFC + exhaust = ~50 rwkw gain

turbo + cams + POD + fuel pump + intercooler + injectors + AFM = ~65 rwkw gain

I think it is obvious what I reckon you should do next. :D

PS; Before the comments start, that was at 12 psi and the standard turbo died shortly thereafter. Plus the standard R34 GTT intercooler (although bigger than R32/33) would heat soak pretty quick and the power would drop off noticeably. So 200 rwkw for short periods, no problems, just don't expect it to do it for long periods.

thanks for the reply,

i have a 300x600x75 cooler so that wouldnt be an issue

and come to think of it i did remove the heat shields from the turbo when installing a dump pipe which could effect the intake pipe from the pod sucking closed more than usual.

It just seems weird - it used to run alot better now it just seems to be killing itself.

But yes i should realise that money is everything and that i really do need a computer if im going to sort out my issues.

Im such a tight ass atm :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeh I think i'll message an old contact i had for ages that manages his own tyre shop now.. n tell him what i want n work with him before ordering..  Got this 17x9 +30 Driftteks on 245/45/17 PSR Drag Radials on the rear.. They fit well - for your reference in future - Rear guards  have been lipped in & minimal to non flaring of the rear Gaurds.  
    • If only it were that easy! I also needed to remove seats, shocks, brake calipers, send my car through a fence, and use measuring and ended up guessing because I didn't remove seats, shocks and brake calipers. It can be hard sometimes Can be a little more complex than 'just measure' if you want to truly measure the entire wheel through all of it's suspension travel. But if you aren't going for every last mm then yeah, you can check the space you currently have and guesstimate.
    • If you own a car, and it has wheels on it, and you know the offset of those wheels, and you have a measuring device, you have everything you need to work out if other wheels will fit.
    • Will this fit? but they are staggered set - RAYS 57DR SEMI GLOSS BLACK 18x8.5 +37 | 18x9.5 +38 5-114.3 STAGGERED SET   or If no go could just get a set 4's wheels of 18x8.5 +37 5-114.3 - would i run 8.5's 235s up front n 245's at the back if I do?   Thanks.        
    • Put a clamp on your return line. I have a feeling it's sucking air, and introducing bubbles to your fuel. With a lot of fuel, less problematic. I'd honestly be redoing all the lines in the tank and clamps on everything.   Also, you've given two different answers to the same question: Asked if being followed by the police you could get down to use the whole tank, you said yes you could, so long as you keep off boost. However, you then followed this up that free revving, it would also cause the issues. I'm doubting free revving is enough to make any noticeable boost on what is likely a decent sized turbo.   So now I have to ask, can you actually drive it lightly and use all the fuel, or does it break up even free revving? Also, have you put a fuel pressure gauge on it? Can you hear the pump change noise at all when you're having this issue?
×
×
  • Create New...