Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

get your fuel pump checked asap then - a dyno run should be able to determine if the car is running lean and the fuel pump needs replacing or if its not that it may show what else is wrong.

The reason we think my engine blew was because i was driving around on a dodgy fuel pump without knowing it for quite sometime.

  • Replies 54
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

hey dude my old line did this about 3 weeks after i sold it to a mate of mine

turned out after everything it went through....the cat was bashed to crap and everything fell out... we re-installed it as a TEST ONLY *cough*

and the car had new life again... so get a high flow cat or do the same TEST

also afm on his was maxing out...so in went the z32 etc and walla more new life... very weird stuff considering it ran fine for soooo long

but yeah it picked up the 50kw or so at the wheels that it has lost previously

Dont check your fuel pump, get rid of that stock piece of crap and get a Bosch 044 600HP fuel pump. Should do the trick. Dont think a BOV would cause a problem like that, BOV's are more common to staling...

I can't believe you're talking like that Driver.

Take it to Steve or someone over there who knows what they're doing and get them to fix it. Sure, it might cost you a few hunji but imagine how many months of pleasure you will be missing out on if you don't drive or drive it like it is now until you go os.

Also write down you kms and litres and get some figures for how many Litres per 100kms your car is doing. That will help you figure out what is normal and what is not. I thought mine was broken but it turns out is was just my lead foot. (I am a compulsive fanger)

haha abo bob,

ive got a cold atm - im very unhappy and thinking negative :(

i wouldnt mind getting a replacement pump and a cheap safc for temp use untill i can afford a pfc.

I have been driving my dads berlina around - god damn it uses less than 1/2 as much fuel as i use in mine - ive been driving for over a week and its just under 1/2 way! - i would of filled up by now 4 sure.

i just realised the r34s dont have one of those km timer things like the r33's u just have to count off the odm. Knowing me ill get it totaly wrong.

"i just realised the r34s dont have one of those km timer things like the r33's u just have to count off the odm. Knowing me ill get it totaly wrong.

Hi Driver,

Should be a push button on the dash next to rpm/speedo that allows you to toggle between odometer/trip A/trip B readings, to reset push and hold button, i use trip A for per tank kms and trip B for oil changes...hope that helps

michael

engine mods i have - full exhaust, fmic, ebc, apexi pod + cai, bov.

Hi Driver, looking at the mods, you have no method of real tuning and R34 GTT's have very strict engine protection built into the ECU. I would never expect t to achieve a good result without some tuning, once I had done the usual bolt on mods. You really need to think about what you are going to do about it, SAFC or Power FC would be my choices. It has been my experiecne that you spend more money on fuel than you could save by a bit of A/F ratio tuning.

My recommendation, get the tuning device (SAFC or PFC) put the car on the dyno and run through the usual checks, that will tell you what is holding it back. Fuel pressure test under load will identify fuel pump problems, A/F ratios can be fixed with tuning, timing light checks for ignition etc etc

The very SECOND mod I did with our R34 GTT was a Power FC with Boost Control Kit, obviously a turbo back exhaust was the first. We had ~200 rwkw with just those two mods and tuning. It now has hi flow turbo, Tomei 260 cams, POD, heat shield, CAI, alloy inlet (yep, they do suck closed), Tomei fuel pump, R34 GTR intercooler, injectors, Z32 AFM and makes 265 rwkw.

You work it out for yourself......

PFC + exhaust = ~50 rwkw gain

turbo + cams + POD + fuel pump + intercooler + injectors + AFM = ~65 rwkw gain

I think it is obvious what I reckon you should do next. :D

PS; Before the comments start, that was at 12 psi and the standard turbo died shortly thereafter. Plus the standard R34 GTT intercooler (although bigger than R32/33) would heat soak pretty quick and the power would drop off noticeably. So 200 rwkw for short periods, no problems, just don't expect it to do it for long periods.

thanks for the reply,

i have a 300x600x75 cooler so that wouldnt be an issue

and come to think of it i did remove the heat shields from the turbo when installing a dump pipe which could effect the intake pipe from the pod sucking closed more than usual.

It just seems weird - it used to run alot better now it just seems to be killing itself.

But yes i should realise that money is everything and that i really do need a computer if im going to sort out my issues.

Im such a tight ass atm :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, yes, every CU on the bus is available via the Consult port, but whether the scanner you are using is capable of talking to the TCU, the ABS/TCS modules, etc etc, is what is at question here. Many of them are only for engine codes. So, if you have one of those, you won't know if the ABS is having a bitch.
    • That's now. R chassis Skylines come from a time when the tolerance in the ADRs was a bit more....slack. My car, on 235/35-17, which is damn near the exact same size as the original 205/55-16, is pretty much bang on correct indicated speed across the whole legal range. That's demonstrated with constant speed run over 5km, and GPS speed. It's just the luck of the draw. My particular speedo head has to be the thing that is "calibrated" that way, because everything else (the diff ratio, the gearbox and the speedo drive**) are all same same as most other Skylines. **OK, so the speedo drive is a Navara unit to drive the R32's cable, not the electronic unit than an R33/4 would normally have with teh same gear on it. Otherwise, I applaud your OCD tendencies, and I would do the same if I needed to.
    • Not too sure, I believe the Nissan consult port does everything? Also just filled up the reservoir to full and the light is still on. The float seems to move up and down fine.
    • The speedo's can be very conservative, when my Mazda NC MX5 speedo is showing 118kph, the GPS, and a calibrated radar.... cop mate.....hits me at around 110kph +/- 1 or 2 kph, and that is on a 215/45 17, stock tyres size is 205/45 17 as well, so weirdly conservative with stock tyre size When my Commodore speedo red 116kph GPS had me at 110kph on 255/40 17, so again conservative Google says manufacturers need to set the speedo from 4 to 10% slower than actual road speed.....for safety.....and compliance  After doing some offset and clearance measurements to see what can fit the NC on 17x8 +40, without guard rolling or rubbing anything at my current ride height, I've decided that when my tyres are toast, I'm going to fit 225/45 17 and see where that gets me IRT actual speed of my speedo and GPS/radar From the online calculator I should be still be doing around 5kph under an actual 110kph when the speedo is showing 110kph My ADHD requires that when I'm doing 110kph on the speedo, that the actual road speed is actually really close to that, and not alot slower And going from 205 to 225 still keeps the car within the %/mm allowable in the NSW vehicle rules and regulations, which is nice, as long as I'm looking at the latest version that is.....LOL https://www.nsw.gov.au/sites/default/files/2021-02/RMS-13.464-Light-vehicle-modifications-Vehicle-Standards-Information-No-6-November-2013.pdf
    • Take the value it measured as, and pick the closest range available that is above the reading on the screen.   Also, no point just testing the coils. Read what has been said again. You need to test all your wiring, everything.
×
×
  • Create New...