Jump to content
SAU Community

Need help (Speed Cameras)


Recommended Posts

On Sunday night I was heading back home on Bourke Rd and there was a mobile speed camera located on a reasonably steep hill. I was doing around 63 and the speed limit was 60, I was not even on the gas simply just rolling down and I got done. Anyway I got out of the car and took photos of the whole scene and even got the video camera out (heading back from autosalon :) ) the guy got out and was pretty irritated by this and began to call his superior. Anyway I was told that they can not book you for speeding when you are coming down on a hill. Is this true? If so I will be contesting.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/51596-need-help-speed-cameras/
Share on other sites

If the camera was positioned at the bottom of the hill then I dont think they are supposed to set up there... not sure if they're allowed to or not. but they could always argue that's what the brake pedal is for :) bit harsh... getting done for doing 63 in a 60 zone though..

Yeah I was lead to believe that they can't do it on a hill either - but as per usual they put them there because they know 99.99% of people wont bother arguing the case and there is a better chance of getting more people.

I understand that the code of practice for speed camera and radar units states they should not be used in certain locations such as hills. Getting the actual document will be the issue but fight it anyway. A good lawyer will make your case and hopefully obtain costs.

The website is www.roadsense.com.au and I understand they can park on the nature strip under the road traffic act. Another corrupt double standarrd and hopefully you bloody vics will vote the prick out at the next state election. Labor ALWAYS overspend the rape the electorate. Just bloody dumb

Take it to court mate as that is ***ing bullshit!!

Hope you got video of the operator driving off coz that will look quite funny when shown in court.

A simple letter back if you get sent a speeding fine stating all the facts and that you have video and pictures will usually see them drop the fine.

They rely on 99% of people not bothering to dispute it and just paying the fine even tho they could get out of it easily, so dispute it and be the other 1% :D

What you do, see a camera on the side of the road. Park in front of it, lock the car and walk off. He cant tell you to move. If he wants to he can move...

Hate those wanks. Everytime i drive past one i give the operator a 1 finger salute.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
    • ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
    • And if you have to drill the oil block, then just drill it for 1/4" and tap it BSP and get a 1/8 to 1/4 BSP bush. The Nissan sender will go straight in and the bush will suit the newly tapped hole. And it will be real strong, to boot.
    • No it doesn't. It just needs an ezy-out to pull that broken bit of alloy out of the hole and presto chango - it will be back to being a 1/8" hole tapped NPT. as per @MBS206 recco. That would be for making what you had in alloy, in steel. If you wanted to do just that instead of remote mounting like @Duncan and I have been pushing. A steel fitting would be unbreakable (compared to that tragically skinny little alloy adapter). But remote mounting would almost certainly be 10x better. Small engineering shops abound all over the place. A lathe and 10 minutes of time = 2x six packs.
×
×
  • Create New...