Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Sorta only done basic mods so far, starting to get up there tho i guess, im wanting to concentrate on new suspension next, but not to much to choose from over here in NZ, so im hesitant to go for anything.

But anyway here are the mods ive done so far.....

Pivot Speed Meter X

Splitfire Coils

Greddy FMIC and piping kit

K&N Pod Filter

Apexi SAFC2 & Apexi AVC-R (Running boost levels of 6psi, 10psi and 14psi)

RPS 3" Stainless mandrel bend exhasut system, full from turbo back, etc.

HKS Cam Gear (Exhaust Side only as engine is NEO and wanted to retain VVT)

When I had the cam gear done I had new waterpump fitted also replaced the tensioners, idlers, pulleys and got a new gates racing belt too (pity no clear cam cover for RB25DET).

did a few other basic things too like got some blue hi temp gates radiator hoses, and replaced all my air lines with blue silicone hoses, because of FMIC i needed a new trans cooler too (needed thinner - factory was too thick), so got one of them as well.

Think thats about it.... :( thanks for asking.

Well here's the dyno chart for my s2.

post-23960-1157156394.jpg

Was very disappointing - its crap basically. Less power than a stock s1.

And also found that there's a fair bit of vibration in the drivetrain - thats gonna be fun to sort out... :)

so yeah the only good bit is the AFR's are fine.

An exhaust + boost controller would give me good power, but would likely throw the AFRs out of whack, requiring some kind of chip to tune it...and its money i dont have, nor will have any time soon.

All i can say is i'm fast losing interest in keeping this stag...just costing way too much...

Was very disappointing - its crap basically. Less power than a stock s1.

And also found that there's a fair bit of vibration in the drivetrain - thats gonna be fun to sort out... :)

so yeah the only good bit is the AFR's are fine.

An exhaust + boost controller would give me good power, but would likely throw the AFRs out of whack, requiring some kind of chip to tune it...and its money i dont have, nor will have any time soon.

All i can say is i'm fast losing interest in keeping this stag...just costing way too much...

Was this at the same place that suggested the GT30 turbo? I'd be asking them if they still think it was a good idea and if they can explain why you have less power now than stock (although I am sure you can't prove there was more power before)

That really sucks mate, it's probably still a good car so hang in there and drive it for a while, don't give up too easy. I guess if you want a huge power figure the Stagea might not be the car to achieve that in (not cheaply)... If you choose to move on I hope you make an informed decision and really find what you are looking for in a car.

Cheers

Luke

Edited by munchdesign
Was this at the same place that suggested the GT30 turbo? I'd be asking them if they still think it was a good idea and if they can explain why you have less power now than stock (although I am sure you can't prove there was more power before)

That really sucks mate, it's probably still a good car so hang in there and drive it for a while, don't give up too easy. I guess if you want a huge power figure the Stagea might not be the car to achieve that in (not cheaply)... If you choose to move on I hope you make an informed decision and really find what you are looking for in a car.

Cheers

Luke

nah that was adelaide turbo services who suggested the gt30 as opposed to a gcg hiflow. they told me i wouldn't see a huge benefit without bigger exhaust and fuel management. they did a great job so i'm not knocking their work. i doubt there's that much difference between a gt28 gcg hiflow or gt30 anyways so either way i think i would've been in the same boat.

It feels faster with the new turbo when on boost so i'd say the turbo isn't really the issue. i knew i wouldn't be seeing the best from the turbo anway. I'm guessing there are other problems with the car and that it actually only had about ~80awkw when we bought it - due to the stock turbo having issues, especially at higher revs.

Its quite bumpy to drive in, which i always thought was the suspension - but now i'm thinking there may be a bigger issue. I've been getting vibration through the accelerator pedal lately and there was quite bad vibration through the whole car on the dyno, indicating something not right in the drivetrain.

So yeah i dont think its a case of getting less power than before, i think its more that we bought a car from a dealer who pulled the wool over our eyes and covered up all the problems the car had. they knew there were suspension issues before we bought it and only confessed when we got them to fix it under warranty. should've taken the warranty a lot further but too late now.

i dont want to give up on it - but right now i've got the debt from when we bought it, plus the extra debt from the turbo replacement, and no performance to show for it. that should explain how i'm feeling right now... :)

Yes well until you can afford the supporting mods for the turbo I would not guess you'll see any gain in performance.

Also I took my old r33 to a DynoLog dyno and it got 132rwkw and the next weekend took it to a Dynologics and it got 153rwkw....... no change in it, so if you wanted bragging rights, then go around and find a dyno that reads high and run it on that.

My understanding is that a dyno is a tuning tool. You run it then change something, then run it again on the same dyno, rinse and repeat until satisfied. So dont be dissapointed at such a low reading, your afr's look nice and safe.

Now you just have to hunt out that "vibration" and work it out then start saving for exhaust and safc :)

Yes well until you can afford the supporting mods for the turbo I would not guess you'll see any gain in performance.

Also I took my old r33 to a DynoLog dyno and it got 132rwkw and the next weekend took it to a Dynologics and it got 153rwkw....... no change in it, so if you wanted bragging rights, then go around and find a dyno that reads high and run it on that.

My understanding is that a dyno is a tuning tool. You run it then change something, then run it again on the same dyno, rinse and repeat until satisfied. So dont be dissapointed at such a low reading, your afr's look nice and safe.

Now you just have to hunt out that "vibration" and work it out then start saving for exhaust and safc :D

Thanks, thats helpful. Hopefully you're not just trying to make me feel better about it :)

apologies for overreacting a little. But i'd seen a rough 120awkw figure posted on this forum sometime and taken that to be the standard S2 stock power output. and about 100awkw for a stock s1??

a FWD magna got 115fwkw on the same dyno this morning (stock, 147kw at the engine) so i dont think the dyno is to blame at all.

but yes i realise some dynos can give higher readings and that dyno results vary a bit.

AFR's were good. I'm now getting 12.5 - 13L/100km city driving without driving economically at all. thats nice at least.

still a nice car - sorry to all for overreacting a bit and sounding like i wanted to sell it - sometimes you feel like that when things go wrong... :P

All i can say is i'm fast losing interest in keeping this stag...just costing way too much...

Don't give up on the old girl just yet. :) Just think of that dyno figure as a starting point. But I do understand the whole 'money' issue, you keep spending it,but don't feel like your getting anywhere. I think Ska's idea is fantastic, find a dyno that reads higher.......hey when you do let me know!!!! :)

Edited by skidkid
Don't give up on the old girl just yet. :) Just think of that dyno figure as a starting point. But I do understand the whole 'money' issue, you keep spending it,but don't feel like your getting anywhere. I think Ska's idea is fantastic, find a dyno that reads higher.......hey when you do let me know!!!! :)

yeah i'll be hanging onto it for a while yet. just real disappointed after spending $3k on a new turbo and not seeing any benefit on the dyno. I expected it to be a little better than stock. It definitely feels faster so thats all I can go by.

Still a nice car. Just need to start saving up for the exhaust and safc (and maybe fmic and boost controller). then i should start to see some nice power figures. my target would only be 150-160awkw. Not after a race car, just a sporty wagon with plenty of grunt. I reckon about $2000 or less would get me there. my gt30 turbo's got loads of potential sitting there - its just a matter of unlocking it.

Tell you what, I'll swap with you. I have all the supporting mods for the GT30 and a stock turbo. I'll give you my turbo and you give me yours until you can really use it and I'll show you it's potential :) WHAT A DEAL!

i was sooooo pissed of on fri. i was all set to go to uas and watch your car on the dyno andy but the dam boss wanted me in the city at 4am and didnt finish till late.by the sounds of it you had a good day

got my stagea dyno'ed today with the power fc installed and sorted out...

...check out the dyno video (click on the picture to play it)

Happy as Larry :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:

Damn nice ! 200rwkw ! good work, thats what- 170awkw? nice, only a cpl kw behind ya ! :laugh:

Pixl8r, mate, I was behind you all day on the cruise - your car booted damn well and Im not just saying that. I was watching......... was very interested in staying behind a S2 thru the hills and enjoying the eyecandy. It looked to me like a 120awkw car. And heading back into the city, Nth Adelaide your Stag pulled off nicely from the lights. :laugh: It NEEDS a full exhaust system. With a little clean cool air your stag would have an easy 140awkw - she's just reavily restricted at the moment. IMO. She's a nice car.

yeah i'll be hanging onto it for a while yet. just real disappointed after spending $3k on a new turbo and not seeing any benefit on the dyno. I expected it to be a little better than stock. It definitely feels faster so thats all I can go by.

Still a nice car. Just need to start saving up for the exhaust and safc (and maybe fmic and boost controller). then i should start to see some nice power figures. my target would only be 150-160awkw. Not after a race car, just a sporty wagon with plenty of grunt. I reckon about $2000 or less would get me there. my gt30 turbo's got loads of potential sitting there - its just a matter of unlocking it.

exactly, it can be done. hell, my catback system is a 3inch modified R33 exhaust ! extended behind the muffler by around 10inches.

good luck with the project, watch her evolve over the next few years of ownership. ;)

Edited by Tangles
i was sooooo pissed of on fri. i was all set to go to uas and watch your car on the dyno andy but the dam boss wanted me in the city at 4am and didnt finish till late.by the sounds of it you had a good day

yeah would have been great if you could have come along.

here are the graphs

200-1.jpg

200.jpg

...mods are

front mount

split dump/engine pipe

catco 5" metal inside cat with 3" cone reducers

blitz NUR spec 3" catback exhaust

walbro fuel pump

power fc

K&N panel filter in standard air box

Damn nice ! 200rwkw ! good work, thats what- 170awkw? nice, only a cpl kw behind ya ! :)

Pixl8r, mate, I was behind you all day on the cruise - your car booted damn well and Im not just saying that. I was watching......... was very interested in staying behind a S2 thru the hills and enjoying the eyecandy. It looked to me like a 120awkw car. And heading back into the city, Nth Adelaide your Stag pulled off nicely from the lights. :laugh: It NEEDS a full exhaust system. With a little clean cool air your stag would have an easy 140awkw - she's just reavily restricted at the moment. IMO. She's a nice car.

exactly, it can be done. hell, my catback system is a 3inch modified R33 exhaust ! extended behind the muffler by around 10inches.

good luck with the project, watch her evolve over the next few years of ownership. :laugh:

Cheers!!

thanks for that tangles! :laugh:

I definitely think my dyno readout was a bit sus. Will give GWW a call sometime this week and ask them if they can give me any feedback as to why its so low.

Other than that apparently non-shootout-mode dynos aren't that reliable when it comes to power figures - more just useful for tuning purposes. And seeing the results of the magnas that were there on the day - the power figures looked a bit all over the place. You had cars with 163kw at the engine only getting 5 fwkw better than some with 147kw at the engine (all magnas) and it just really didn't add up on the whole. :laugh:

dont wanna blame GWW for anything tho - they do a great job with stags/skylines - but I do think there must have been factors not in my favour on the day. We had the stagea in 4wd mode (button on the dash) but i dont know if that changed anything since at higher revs it reverts back to normal atessa operation anyway as far as i know. I just wonder if the dyno was reading kw at the FRONT wheels only (being a magna dyno day) because the torque split isn't 50-50 in a stag - not sure how the dyno would accurately calculate awkw if the torque split isn't 50-50. Can anyone shed some light on this?

But its a simple calculation - my stag is pretty stock, but with a GT30 turbo, running more boost (8psi) and therefore i assume its flowing more air than stock, but approx 20awkw less than a stock S2 stagea. That doesn't add up.

Also it can keep up with a magna with 115fwkw and weighing 250kg less (actually my top end on boost should blow it away but thats beside the point). If I really did have only 100awkw i'd have been way behind...

that powerfc and fuel pump seems to make a lot of difference, how come you have an Autech bumber? custon fitted yourself or factory? weird to see it on a 25 :)

the front bar came with the car when i imported it from japan.

what boost were you running EGA?

its shown on the second graph (10-12 psi)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
×
×
  • Create New...